64 C10 - This Rat's a Keeper!

[67stepsideC10]

I've been through a lot with this old truck. I bought it from a nice old guy out in Kannapolis, NC who'd took it on trade for some other vehicle. It cranked and ran, fuel line sucked gas from an antifreeze bottle under the hood. Brakes "needed bleeding" and it needed the tank cleaned/replaced. 4 mismatch wheels and tires, only two held air. That was the truck for me. $1200 and a call to AAA for a tow and it was mine.



I had no idea what I was in for with this thing. Ended up needing wheel cylinders, so replaced those, then blew out the brake lines, so I ended up just redoing all the brake parts from the master cylinder down the line. Problem solved.

Replaced the gas tank with a nice new in cab unit. Looking back I wish i'd done an under-bed tank, but oh well.



Bought some nice 15" 6 lug rally wheels with centers and rings from a guy in Denver, NC for $250. Cheapest tires I could find were these BFGs at Wal-Mart for about $400 mounted and balanced.



Bolted on some spinners to the centers for an added touch, and roughed up the front bumper so it'd match the rest of the truck.



Then, the fun really began, now that it was driveable.

I began to notice it would overheat any time I got going faster than about 45mph. Seemed counter-intuitive...more air should be cooler, right? Well, I went through all the typical troubleshooting steps:

Tightened fan belt, no joy.
New thermostat, no joy.
New radiator cap, no joy.
New water pump, no joy.
Radiator and engine coolant flush and replace (even bought a flush gun), no joy.
Professional radiator flush, no joy.

I was ready to burn the thing to the ground.

After a peak inside the radiator I realized it had a bunch of little chunks at the top of the tubes. Tried a magnet and sure enough they were metal.



Took the radiator out for a third time (I was getting good at it by now!) and had it flushed at the radiator shop. Same exact problem. Same metallic material in the tubes after running the engine.

I determined the engine must have been so full of stop-leak that it was just filling the radiator up with crud. The radiator was acting like a filter. Tubes were clogging, and as soon as I got up to speed, the open tubes weren't enough to cool the engine.

Hopped on Craigslist and found a 250ci Inline 6 with less than 50k miles, with the integrated head removed and replaced with the old style head, painted up all nice and orange, even had HEI. Gave me an extra head on top of all that! I think I only gave $200 for it, delivered. This was going to solve my problem, I just knew it.



Never having done an engine swap before, looking back I think this was the best one to start with. It was all very simple.

Old engine:


Removed:



Went ahead and put in a new clutch and had the flywheel turned because I didn't want to have to pull it again any time soon.





Got the bad boy in there in about a day and a half, cranked up right off the bat. I was one happy camper.



That is, until I realized it was doing the EXACT SAME THING. Still overheating the second I stayed at 45mph+.

Finally someone with some sense stepped in. A family member handed me an old 4 tube radiator out of a 55 Chevrolet. We zip tied it in, connected up the hoses, and went for a test drive. Problem solved.

While we're still on the good stuff, another note about the motor. The guy I bought it from kept telling me "those power steering brackets are worth a whole lot...I really shouldn't take your offer but I need the money". I thought it was BS. Didn't want power steering on my truck anyway so I stuck 'em on eBay. Sold for $283. Holy freakin crap. He wasn't kidding. Motor paid for itself.



All said and done, I probably have $4000 in this hunk of junk. It's still a rusted out raggedy old rat, but it's mine for good. It's too rusted out to ever fix up, but I actually like the "patina". We use it often for moving things, and I've actually daily driven it for the past two weeks to and from work. The gears get jammed and it's loud as heck because the muffler is blown out, but I love it.











I have dreams of lowering it, maybe even bagging it, patching the floorboards, swapping the bench for bucket seats, etc, but it'll always be a rat. I'd love to teach my kids to drive in such an old survivor. A 3 speed on the column will be unheard of by then! I'm never selling this old thing.

My wife and I even used it for a few of our engagement pictures...and yes, i'm well aware she's out of my league!









And one funny one...says it all...

[dr69burb]

Cool truck
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[jimmydean]

Nice!

[**grumpy**]

Thats great! Enjoy it.

Congrats on the purdy lady too!

[1968C30]

Great story, thanks for sharing it...

[cubber]

Cool, man.

[Captainfab]

That's a cool story, and a decent truck you have.

Something that could have been wrong with your radiator. If too many of the fins between all the tubes are bent over, the air can't get thru the radiator and cool it off.

Congrats on the engagement to a beautiful woman

[Terry12]

Awesome truck, those pics came out great as well.

[67stepsideC10]

Thanks for all the comments folks.

Daily drove the truck last week. Last couple days I noticed it wasn't running right. Backfiring occasionally on the highway, cutting off and not restarting at stoplights.

Pics from Friday before leaving work:



Came to a head Friday evening when I happened to notice FLAMES coming up from between the cab and bed.

Got out and saw the fire was coming from the (blown out) muffler. It quickly died down but nevertheless I was a bit scared knowing the gas tank was right inside the cab.

Pulled the air cleaner and saw the choke was closed. Who knows how long it has been that way. Probably the root of all the problems. Disabled the choke (bent the lever over so it can't close) and now that problem won't happen again.





To do (highest priority at top):
-get new muffler (existing one is blown out from a bad backfire a while back(
-get the rubber clutch stopper (right now it's metal to metal, pedal too high)
-get pedal pads for brake and clutch (none now, slippery when wet!)
-get wiper blade arms (springs rusted/broken on mine)
-check for fouled plugs
-install inline fuel filter between fuel pump and carb
-explore other carb options (need an operational choke at minimum)
-----MIGHT look into an Offenhauser 4 barrel intake with a Holley carb....
-get rear bumper brackets (want to use a two 2x6s as bumper)
-explore static lowering options

[rcg66]

I think the pictures of your truck in the parking lot look awesome.

[70STOVEBOLT]

I would put a hand choke on it. The cable would attach to the hole in that lever you bent over. You would have to secure the cable housing somewhere on the intake manifold, but that would be your best bet for getting the choke to work. Otherwise you will have to find a divorced choke setup. That is what is supposed to hook up to that hole in that lever. It is basically a thermostatic coil that mounts to the intake manifold and a linkage rod goes between it and the hole in that bent lever. That works in conjunction with the vacuum pull-off that is already there.

[McMurphy]

Originally Posted by 70STOVEBOLT

I would put a hand choke on it. The cable would attach to the hole in that lever you bent over. You would have to secure the cable housing somewhere on the intake manifold, but that would be your best bet for getting the choke to work. Otherwise you will have to find a divorced choke setup. That is what is supposed to hook up to that hole in that lever. It is basically a thermostatic coil that mounts to the intake manifold and a linkage rod goes between it and the hole in that bent lever. That works in conjunction with the vacuum pull-off that is already there.

I have a stock choke cable I am not going to use if you need it.
Just shoot me a PM with a mailing address and I will shoot it out to you.

[Shaun1162]

Nice truck you got there! Definately got some patina on it!

Good score on that motor too.... That carb that's on there is an old Rochester Monojet... I don't think trucks came with them until 67 or 68, but obviously since your motor is newer, the carb is too... Just rebuilt a monojet real similar to that one for one of my trucks... Having never done one before, it really wasn't all that bad. you might want to try rebuilding it first. Kit is only like $30, plus you'll want to buy a replacement brass float for $10. You could probably rig up some sort of manual choke linkage too for it (if you actually use the choke much down there). Probably be cheaper then trying to go out and find another old carb, and rebuilding it/have it rebuilt. Just a thought though..

Either way, truck looks cool!

[67stepsideC10]

Thanks for the input guys. I may try to rig something up. It is pretty tough to warm up without the choke in the "cold" months here. Not a huge deal but annoying nevertheless.

I guess I could probably rig up some kind of linkage to manually control the choke. My main concern would be the automatic part interfering. Maybe I can remove it? There's actually a choke cable on the truck already, it's just broken.

I probably won't mess with trying to rebuild it. I'd rather put the effort into doing the 4bbl conversion. I've seen a lot of good stuff over in the Inline 6 thread.

[Shaun1162]

Originally Posted by 67stepsideC10

Thanks for the input guys. I may try to rig something up. It is pretty tough to warm up without the choke in the "cold" months here. Not a huge deal but annoying nevertheless.

I guess I could probably rig up some kind of linkage to manually control the choke. My main concern would be the automatic part interfering. Maybe I can remove it? There's actually a choke cable on the truck already, it's just broken.

I probably won't mess with trying to rebuild it. I'd rather put the effort into doing the 4bbl conversion. I've seen a lot of good stuff over in the Inline 6 thread.

I would think you could rig up something, and I see no reason why you can't take off the automatic choke set-up. You'll probably have to take the carb off, because the linkages are kind of tricky to take apart. Also have to plug the vacuum port on the back that goes to the choke pull off, but thats not a big deal. Then just mae up some sort of bracket and hook the cable somewhere the choke rod.

Not trying to discourage, but how much are you planning on putting into the 4bbl set-up? From what I've seen it's pretty spendy for an old 250... The intake is a few hundred, a new or rebuilt 4bbl will probably run you a couple hundred at least... Then of course you'll need new headers, again a couple hundred bucks at least (unless you find some used), and then need new exhaust because it'll have dual exhaust instead of the old single pipe. Again not trying to put you down... But that's at least $500-$1000 before your time..

[67stepsideC10]

Originally Posted by McMurphy

I have a stock choke cable I am not going to use if you need it.
Just shoot me a PM with a mailing address and I will shoot it out to you.

That'd be fantastic. I'll send the PM now. Thank you!

Originally Posted by Shaun1162

I would think you could rig up something, and I see no reason why you can't take off the automatic choke set-up. You'll probably have to take the carb off, because the linkages are kind of tricky to take apart. Also have to plug the vacuum port on the back that goes to the choke pull off, but thats not a big deal. Then just mae up some sort of bracket and hook the cable somewhere the choke rod.

Not trying to discourage, but how much are you planning on putting into the 4bbl set-up? From what I've seen it's pretty spendy for an old 250... The intake is a few hundred, a new or rebuilt 4bbl will probably run you a couple hundred at least... Then of course you'll need new headers, again a couple hundred bucks at least (unless you find some used), and then need new exhaust because it'll have dual exhaust instead of the old single pipe. Again not trying to put you down... But that's at least $500-$1000 before your time..

Good point about removing the carb. I'll wait and see how the cable works out that McMurphy has so kindly offered before I go any further. Fingers crossed it'll be unnecessary to remove it, but I have my doubts considering all the issues it's caused.

As for the 4bbl conversion, yeah, I know it will get spendy. I like the uniqueness of it and plus I've already spent way too much money on this truck so I'm keeping it forever. Maybe someday I'll swap in a TBI fuel injection setup from a 4.6L Vortec and a T5 from an S10. I've already learned in my brief 23 years of life that hot rods are a big hole that are lots of fun to throw money into!

Fortunately I have access to a good bit of parts at wholesale rates (wife's family owns a Camaro parts business). I'll wait for a good deal on a used intake/carb, and I look at it as a hobby so don't count my time as an expense.

I was NOT aware it'd require headers, but now that you say that it makes sense. All the photos I've collected seem to show them. Why keep stock manifolds after all that work anyway?

How awesome is this?










While we're dreaming This is the stance i'll be going for someday. Love the look of this truck. Not sure what all it'd require, but i'm sure it'll be a money pit too!

[Shaun1162]

Originally Posted by 67stepsideC10

Good point about removing the carb. I'll wait and see how the cable works out that McMurphy has so kindly offered before I go any further. Fingers crossed it'll be unnecessary to remove it, but I have my doubts considering all the issues it's caused.

As for the 4bbl conversion, yeah, I know it will get spendy. I like the uniqueness of it and plus I've already spent way too much money on this truck so I'm keeping it forever. Maybe someday I'll swap in a TBI fuel injection setup from a 4.6L Vortec and a T5 from an S10. I've already learned in my brief 23 years of life that hot rods are a big hole that are lots of fun to throw money into!

Fortunately I have access to a good bit of parts at wholesale rates (wife's family owns a Camaro parts business). I'll wait for a good deal on a used intake/carb, and I look at it as a hobby so don't count my time as an expense.

I was NOT aware it'd require headers, but now that you say that it makes sense. All the photos I've collected seem to show them. Why keep stock manifolds after all that work anyway?

If you do have to remove the carb, it's no big deal at all... Got it down pat on mine now haha. Just two nuts on the intake, the fuel line, probably a cotter pin for the throttle linkage and then any vacuum hoses (though it doesn't look like you have many hooked up) and it comes right off.. Maybe 5-10 minutes.

Headers aren't essential, but just like you say, why go through the work of intake and not have headers too right?

There is another option beside a 4BBL.. There's an adapter plate to go from the stock manifold to a Holley 2 barrel (I think around 500 CFM). My Dad has one on his vintage stock car, along with some old headers. Sounds mean, and you don't have to find a new intake. No idea if the adapter is still made (but I think it probably is) and would give you quite a bit more carbeuration compared to the monojet.

Like you say, keep your eyes peeled and you'll probably find a good deal. Not many people are big on old 6's so you might find someone pulling parts, or maybe someone has em on the shelf tucked away. We found a whole pile of good 250/292 parts, including headers, that the guy pretty much gave away because he didn't like 6 cylinders.

[McMurphy]

I will get that off you this week, tomorrow may be hemmed up though.

If you like straight six engines with 4bbl carbs, check out the Tempest in my sig.
I have put a lot of time and money into that bad boy and love it !!

[67stepsideC10]

Originally Posted by Shaun1162

If you do have to remove the carb, it's no big deal at all... Got it down pat on mine now haha. Just two nuts on the intake, the fuel line, probably a cotter pin for the throttle linkage and then any vacuum hoses (though it doesn't look like you have many hooked up) and it comes right off.. Maybe 5-10 minutes.

Headers aren't essential, but just like you say, why go through the work of intake and not have headers too right?

There is another option beside a 4BBL.. There's an adapter plate to go from the stock manifold to a Holley 2 barrel (I think around 500 CFM). My Dad has one on his vintage stock car, along with some old headers. Sounds mean, and you don't have to find a new intake. No idea if the adapter is still made (but I think it probably is) and would give you quite a bit more carbeuration compared to the monojet.

Like you say, keep your eyes peeled and you'll probably find a good deal. Not many people are big on old 6's so you might find someone pulling parts, or maybe someone has em on the shelf tucked away. We found a whole pile of good 250/292 parts, including headers, that the guy pretty much gave away because he didn't like 6 cylinders.

Hmmm, didn't know anything about the 2BBL option. I like that idea.

Did some research (mostly on this forum) and actually found out some prefer the 2BBL over the 4BBL for driveability.

Emailed Tom over at Stovebolt Engine Co. today. They sell the all the 1bbl to 2bbl goodies and more. I can get the adapter, brand new progressive Weber 2bbl carb and air cleaner for right around $250 plus shipping. Electric choke, too, which would resolve that pesky problem.







Thanks for the tip! I think i'll save up for that upgrade in the next few months.

[LostMy65]

Yes, cool truck.
And nice classy shots taken with your pretty lady.
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[82ccshorty]

Looks like you fit in well here Evan.
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[82ccshorty]

Money in the bird that's for sure. Lol looks better with new treads though
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[joe750]

Love this truck and what you're doing.
We need to get some Charlotte guys together and cruise these things
A convoy of nostalgia and rust. I'm into it.
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