97 S10 No start.. Arrrg.

[BlazinC5]

So, A few weeks ago. The wife drove our 97 s10 blazer with a 4.3L home and parks it. A few days later I decide to go start it and move it. Well, it cranked over but would not start at all. So I mess with a few things. Like see if it is getting fuel. The pump kicked on and line had pressure. Even put a squirt of fuel down the intake and still, No start. I moved over to the ignition. pulled a wire, put a plug in it and grounded it, No spark... Ahh time to check coil.. Dang,, coil checks out as good. So next I check for power to the coil... I turned the key to the on position and .25 volts.. to the coil,, yes .25v. I believe it should be 12v. So now I guess I have to trace some wires.. In all this progress I also discovered that my fuel guage now is pegged out past full and don't move, (key on or off) And the voltmeter is as low as it goes and don't move either. Plus the fuel pump will not kick on automaticly. I can get it to pump using the bypass wire on the drivers side firewall tied directly to the battery and the pump sounds real good. but no start still and no good power to coil. So something is very wrong in the wiring...

Do any of you have a wiring schematic that would show the coils power source? The Haynes manuals are vague and I realy want to strangle every person who wrote for Ehow.com's articles. They are so random and vague they obviously knew nothing of what they were writing. Any help would be great. Oh, I also checked all my fuses and they are good and no trouble codes were set on the computer either.

[BarryB]

I don't have a shematic but it puts me to thinking a ground issue. have you made sure your battery connections are all good and not corroded? I've seen some crazy stuff happen over corroded battery ends.

[BlazinC5]

I don't believe I have a ground issue. Especialy off the batt. cable ends. It seems that everything else is working with the exeption of what I mentioned in the first post. I still have to get the Electronic control module checked out too. It seems that Napa don't have the correct dongle to use their equipment and it's about 80-150 bucks to buy a new one. Lil bit pricey for a maybe it will work.. So I am gunna check a few other auto parts stores too. and see if they can tell me if it's ngood or bad.

[Zane M]

If you are going to get your module tested, have it done at multiple places.
I have found that you can take a bad module to 5 different places and at least two will tell you it is good.