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06-15-2003, 05:51 PM | #1 |
Got big-block?
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 2,453
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Project Daisycutter update....front end disassembled
Finally got some time and cooperating weather to get the front end of the frame disassembled. Now to clean it and paint with POR-15. I bought another set of upper/lower a-arms and centerlink and already have them cleaned and painted with POR-15. I'll be going back with all new steering and suspension parts that I got from ECE as well as their lowered sway bar kit.
I'll be listing all the front pieces I removed on the parts board if anybody wants them to do a 5 lug disc swap. They're '72 pieces. Here's a pic: |
06-16-2003, 03:55 PM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada
Posts: 4,052
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Let me know how the lowered sway bar brackets fit.
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1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD |
06-16-2003, 04:16 PM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Des Moines WA. (Kent, area)
Posts: 668
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72mario, I have their lowered swaybar brackets and they fit great!
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70 chev c10 swb fleet 72 grill, sb 400, 2/4 drop. 68 chev c10 swb fleet Early classic 4/6 drop with 4wheel disc brakes 9"rear 67-8 buckets tilt and A/C Classic GM Truck Club of Washington . |
06-16-2003, 05:36 PM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: California
Posts: 27
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Instead of buying the sway bar lowering bracket kit, you can take your existing sway bar and mount it on top of the frame bracket instead of below. I have done it on all my lowered trucks and it works great and I think it even looks cleaner. Learned that trick from article in Truckin Magazine years ago before they even made lowering kits. Let me know what you think if you do it that way
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06-16-2003, 06:13 PM | #5 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Jonesville NC
Posts: 621
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how much for the lower a arms
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