The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1967 - 1972 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-18-2003, 10:30 AM   #1
Andrew68c10
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Paso Robles, CA
Posts: 178
Center Support/Carrier Bearing Removal

Trying to replace the center support driveshaft bearing. Do I need to take it to a shop, or can I use my vise without damaging the ujoint?
__________________
1968 Chevy C10 Longbed Fleetside
Andrew68c10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2003, 11:22 AM   #2
70 longbed
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Sierra Vista, AZ
Posts: 489
Andrew68c10,

You can do it yourself.

You need to seperate the shafts, leaving the ujoint in the front part of the shaft. Then there is a bolt that holds the yoke on the rear shaft. Once the yoke is off, you can remove the front metal piece that protects the bearing. Then the bearing can be taken off. (this may require a little work.) If you are replacing it, who cares how you get the bearing off, other than you don't want to damage the rear metal plate that is there. My bearing came off with a little persuasion with a hammer. Again, you don't want to bend up that plate to much, because you will use it again.
__________________
Keith

70 CST longbed in progress. Hoping to get it back on the road soon.
70 longbed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2003, 12:09 PM   #3
Andrew68c10
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Paso Robles, CA
Posts: 178
My problem is the ujoint. Should it come out easily? Last time I did this I ruined the ujoint.
Andrew68c10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2003, 12:13 PM   #4
Dads72
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 427
I'd never done one before, so didn't know what I was doing. Finally took a cut-off tool to the round metal yoke that surrounds the rubber donut. Then I pulled it apart and saw how things work.
Apparently there's more than one style of replacements. The store gave me the wrong one the first time. Not cool, as I tore the thing apart before I checked.
Some have the mounting holes running lengthwise on the truck, and some go crossways. You might want to check first.
Dads72 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2003, 12:13 PM   #5
COBALT
Senior Member
 
COBALT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Seattle, WA, USA
Posts: 5,817
Easy job.

When you pull your driveline make sure to mark all the yokes with a white crayon or something (INCLUDING the spots around the bearing you're replacing). If you get the yokes mismatched then it'll be out of ballance and will shake like crazy when you get back on the road.

Second, which bearing do you have? There are two types. The "tear drop type" which is what we're talking about here (usually with automatics), or the "U" shaped stronger type that generally come with manuals.

1. Drop the driveline out of the truck.
2. Remove the center U-joint using a couple of old sockets and a hammer (2 1/2 lb to 4 lb hammer should do it) - you might need to replace this one depending on the shape it's in.
3. Put the shaft with the bearing in it in a vice, and remove the bolt holding the removable yoke on. Use a socket to bang the yoke off of the shaft.
4. Cut the metal housing off the bearing by cutting away the rubber mount it's in. Shave off the rubber until it's just the bearing on the shaft.
5. Use one of those cheap 3 jaw pullers you get at the parts store, and place a socket over the center punch on the pullers (don't damage the hole the removable-yoke bolt came out of!). Slowly turn the center bolt on the pullers and the bearing will come right off (loose press).
6. Before putting the new bearing on take those little metal shields that sit on either side of the bearing, and throw them in a box somewhere. Don't try to reuse them! The new bearings don't like them, and they'll just squeal and ruin the bearing.
7. Here's an easy way to put the new bearing on. Get a 5" steel pipe nipple and steel cap to go with it. Make sure the nipple is the right diameter to fit over the exposed drive shaft end and sit on the inner race of the new bearing. I just took the drive shaft with me to the Home Depot after I got the new bearing from the parts store, and looked until I found one. Screw the cap onto the nipple, and use this to bang the new bearing onto the shaft.
8. Use another socket to bang the removable yoke on (remember your white marks), and reinstall the bolt making it as tight as you can by hand.
9. Put the center U-joint back in, and reinstall the drive shaft.

You're done.
__________________
'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400
'69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual
'99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe
Seattle, WA.
COBALT is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:22 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com