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03-30-2013, 05:01 PM | #1 | ||
"I ain't nobody, dork."
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Whidbey Island, Washington
Posts: 8,971
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Shop Moisture/Condensation
How do you guys deal withg moisture and condensation in your shops? Last August the new wife and I moved onto a 3 acre property with a 38x40 foot shop. It's a concrete floor pole barn with metal siding, open ceiling, and some thin foamish type insulation between the siding and the frame. I intend on installing a wood stove in the shop someday. But for now am using kerosene heat.
I know there is a little condensation from using kerosene or propane in the cold... but that's not the concern. What happens is if it gets to freezing or below outside, and I open one of the big rollup doors... it will start "raining" inside the shop in about a half an hour. This is even before I use any heat. It's got to be from the cold rush of air coming in to the shop and acting with the slightly warmer air inside and making a crap ton of moisture. Having to put tarps over the truck, toys, and tools is getting to be a pain in the ass. I guess I will need to look to insulate the shop better, and even enclose the ceiling as well. But that won't happen for another couple of years. This has been a real downer to the wife and I, since the shop was a big reason we chose the house and property. I searched the forum, but didn't come up with anything... any idears fellas? Gary
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03-30-2013, 09:31 PM | #2 |
Hollister Road Co.
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Houston
Posts: 6,131
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Re: Shop Moisture/Condensation
ridge vent the roof so the moisture can get out. They make a vent that you can open and close with a pull chain.
Just curious how much is a crap ton? |
03-30-2013, 10:56 PM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Hoytsville, Utah
Posts: 3,365
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Re: Shop Moisture/Condensation
It's just under a metric a$$ load
As far as the condensation, vents, like's been said, and maybe a fan. Like a cheap box fan up high in one corner to circulate the air.
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03-31-2013, 12:02 PM | #4 | ||
"I ain't nobody, dork."
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Whidbey Island, Washington
Posts: 8,971
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Re: Shop Moisture/Condensation
Enough that you have to wear raingear whilst in the shop...
Gary
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'cuz chicks dig scars... My 1972 GMC 1500 Super Custom (Creeping Death) "long term" build thread. The Rebuild of Creeping Death after the wreck Quote:
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03-31-2013, 06:17 PM | #5 |
Hollister Road Co.
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Houston
Posts: 6,131
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Re: Shop Moisture/Condensation
Living where you are I would think presents a unique situation as far as moisture. Try contacting metal building companies in your neck of the woods and see what they say. It shouldn't rain in your garage even a quarter crap ton. You're most likely going to have to vent and insulate to fix the issue or start an indoors science and amusement park. Or change your name to Rainman
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04-01-2013, 03:20 AM | #6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: back 40, bc
Posts: 3,906
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Re: Shop Moisture/Condensation
Gary, i live about 2 hrs NE of you (same crap weather!) & have been roofing part time since 7 yrs old, full time since 15 (now 46). there,s different ways (cost etc.) to fix this. a little more info on how your shop is built would be helpful. all buildings must have a transition zone (attic space).if your shop is built with roof trusses & has a insulated ceiling, the attic space should be close to outside temp. ( this is why snow does not melt off a properly insul. & vented roof). if your ceiling is vaulted (open), after your insul. is in (styro, pb6, etc.), you must cross-strap your roof so you have your transition zone. insul. should never be piled, stacked or jammed to the bottom of the roof, you MUST have that air space. then that air space must be vented. if your ceiling is vaulted, like dwcsr says, ridge vent, this will help, but not cure. you will need to remove the roof & cross-strap, or cheap out & cross strap inside & re fasten your insul. to it so you have a transition zone. if it was mine, i would put a ceiling in & insul. it, throw some AF50 roof vents in it ( 1 vent for every 500 sq ft of building space), & change your soffits so you can use vented alum. or vinyl soffit & get a good up draft pull threw your trans. zone (gabel vents would work too). some pic's of what you have would really help, & what you have on your roof right now (metal, shingle, shake etc.)you should fix this, i've pulled off countless roofs with condensation problems, & it will ROT every thing ( if your lucky your wood will only be black)
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04-01-2013, 10:05 AM | #7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Indiana
Posts: 4,859
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Re: Shop Moisture/Condensation
I don't know about "unique" weather, my garage does this every spring and fall. Damp, cool weather, and all my 8 foot lights drip like I hosed them down. Any raw metal gets a coat of rust. Any black tools have to be oiled. Axes, shovels, any gardening tool need sprayed also. I have roof vents, but I still have to run a fan in the window to keep things dry--er. I'm thinking my issue is due to uninsulated block walls.
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04-01-2013, 04:40 PM | #8 | |||||
"I ain't nobody, dork."
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Whidbey Island, Washington
Posts: 8,971
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Re: Shop Moisture/Condensation
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I will make a few phone calls and see what some of those cats say Thanks! Quote:
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Gary
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'cuz chicks dig scars... My 1972 GMC 1500 Super Custom (Creeping Death) "long term" build thread. The Rebuild of Creeping Death after the wreck Quote:
Quote:
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03-30-2013, 10:59 PM | #9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: canton ga
Posts: 12,724
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Re: Shop Moisture/Condensation
I have a shop as you described but well insulated and heat with a propane chicken house furnace and have no moisture problems so the insulation may be your answer .
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04-06-2013, 04:06 PM | #10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Motown
Posts: 7,680
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Re: Shop Moisture/Condensation
change to a vented heater like a house furnace. i bought a 100,000 btu house furnace off craigslist that i have used for 8 yrs.
before that i had a propane ready heater, burning an unvented propane heater produces 3 things; heat, co2 and water vapor. i use to have water puddles in my tool box and on the table saws before changing to a vented heater. also in the spring when the building is cool and the air outside is warmer and humid opening the doors to let the heat in also lets all that humidity that condenses on the cool floors and tools. i usually keep the doors closed and turn on the heater during those days in spring. you probably have our spring weather all winter, keep the doors closed and turn on the heat i have my 50x50 shop partitioned of into 3 areas: workshop is 20x30 and is heated all winter. 20x50 with 3 garage doors for parking. and 30x30 car bay for driving in and working on a vehicle and/or welding area. i can heat the car bay if needed. all my tools stay in the 20x30 shop space where they are warm and dry year round. shop/barn is 50x50 parking is 20x50 with a single door into the car bay 20x30 shop area that is insulated and heated (looking into car bay)
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08-30-2013, 07:57 PM | #11 | ||
"I ain't nobody, dork."
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Whidbey Island, Washington
Posts: 8,971
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Re: Shop Moisture/Condensation
Well... thanks for all the replies from all you guys. But the deal on this house/shop/property fell through and we are not buying the property after all. So back to a 2 car garage for me!
Gary
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'cuz chicks dig scars... My 1972 GMC 1500 Super Custom (Creeping Death) "long term" build thread. The Rebuild of Creeping Death after the wreck Quote:
Quote:
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