points to HEI

[Wabash]

i was just wondering if this is just a simple swap or is there more to it. like doing anything with the wiring harness or anything like that?
i have always had hei but the truck i just bought still has the points set up on it.

and also what do you think is a kick @ss hei distributer??

also do any of you run a msd ignition box in your truck, and if so does it make it alot better?
pros and cons please.

thanx for any help you guys can give me

Tim

[Longhorn Man]

As for how to wire it up, check out the F.A.Q. page.
As for a good HEI...I like the stock ones myself. Onless you have nitrous/turbo/super charger, or you're holding the RPMs at 5000, I see no reason to get all expensive. If your engine don't need more, then you are just spending money...quite a bit of it too.
But that's just my opinion.

[ColinOpseth]

I just went from HEI 'back' to points. Points are just fine for a fairly stock engine, they're simple, and if you carry a spare set with you they will never leave you stranded.

HEI has a large distributor, can be a pain to diagnose, and it WILL leave you stranded if the control module goes.

My $0.02,
Colin

[Wabash]

thanx for the replys, i have actually never looked in the FAQ section here.

and also this is not a stock engine, she was put on the dyno and run 389 horse to the rear wheels. why he put the points back on it is beyond me but i need something good for this higher horse motor.

[stelth2002]

I would run a points setup with an MSD box. Thats what i do, there is not much point in running an HEI when you have the MSD. My will spark completely over the valve cover if disconnected. The only reason i see using an HEI is the bigger cap, but the control module and timing thing is what turns me off. To each there own. My inline only puts out 235 horse, but ~420 ft lbs torque.

[ColinOpseth]

stelth2002,
That is exactly what I am going to do. I have a 327 and will be putting on AFR heads, aluminum intake, and a 1406 Edelbrock carb. I will also be running points with an MSD 6AL. MSD says that points will last longer with an MSD box.

I like points. They're very simple and easy to troubleshoot. I mean, heck. Pull them off and look at them, if they're burnt chuck em and if not it's your coil or bad cap/rotor. Nice

later,
Colin

[DirtyLarry]

No way man….no breaker ignition for this boy.

I agree with longhornmail, the stock GM HEI distributors are the best and most reliable. I guarantee you will have more problems and higher frequency of ignition maintenance with the old breaker point’s ignition. The first thing I did when I bought my 72’ C20 beater truck was to ditch the breaker point distributor and drop a freshly acquired HEI unit from the bone yard. In my 68’ GMC with a angry 396, with 10:1’s, .555 lift cam and several other goodies runs low 14’s on a stock HEI distributor at 4600 ft elevation. Well, I did put a curve kit in the distributor though.

For you guys yanking your HEI out to go back with breaker points just box up your HEI and mail to me. I will gladly give it a home or sell it to the kid down the street for $80 since I am tired of installing a new set of points in his truck every two months.

[ColinOpseth]

DirtyLarry,
I drive my V8 Vega 1-2 times a week. I also want more than $80 for my Accel Blueprint :p I think it retails around $200 and it's a month old. Onto eBay it goes!

I like points. Had them in my '68 Camaro, my dad's '72 big block half ton, and my '70 big block shortbed. Never had problems, then again I enjoy doodling around with my toys

later,
colin

[GMC Jim]

I used a factory H.E.I unit from a junk car....Regardless of the mechanical condition the spark advance curve for all distributors varys considerable among engines....For example; the 1971 Factory service manual gives the following specs for a 402 cu. in. engine. Centrifugal advance ( degrees @ RPM )... 0 @ 930; 2 @ 1260; 16 @ 2400 and 30 @ 4400. The vacuum advance is 0 degrees @ 8 inches vacumm and 20 degrees @ 17 inches vacuum
I took my junkyard HEI distributorto a certified distributor rebuild shop that had the capability to install the proper weights and springs to achieve factory advance specs for the various RPM's. The same shop will check the electronic module; pickup assembly and check for any signs of mechanical wear.
The much higher voltage produced will require replacing your spark plug wires with a set that is designed for HEI ignition systems. Also change spark plugs is necessary and re-gap to .045.
Again; back to the subject of centrifugal adavance curves; I have seen numerous posts expressing disatisfaction with engine performance after changing over to H.E.I. Very little has been said about matching the distributor to the engine. Proper
operation cannot be obtained by just dropping in an HEI unit from a different engine.... Futher example; the centrifugal advance for a 1971 350 cu. in engine @ 4200 RPM is 18 degrees; 1971 307 cu. in engine @ 4300 is 24 degrees, etc, etc.
A point ignition system has many disadvantages such as pitting; rub block wear which changes the point gap and dwell;
condenser failure etc.
...... Sure, sure.... points can be somewhat easier to replace etc.... but over the many years far more points, condensors and coils have been replaced than properly installed HEI systems....I am sure you don't wish for an arm-breaking hand crank in case of a rare insatnce of starter failure.

[DirtyLarry]

Well said GMC Jim

The only use I have for a breaker ignition distributor is to knock the cam gear off and use it as a tool to prime the oil pump on a freshly built engine prior to start up. In my opinion, breaker ignition rates right up there with oil bath air cleaners, carburetors and split rims all of which are one big hassle.

[GMC Jim]

another important point regarding HEI ignition systems. the fatory service manual states.. quote " The electronic module is serviced by complete replacement only. When replacing the module
a liberal coating of special silicone grese MUST be applied to the metal mounting surface on which the module will be installed. If this grease is not applied the module will not cool properly which can cause the module to malfunction. A tube of this special silicone grease is supplied with each replacement module."
I would suggest that before installing a used HEI unit that this should be checked. This silicone grese is very similar; ( if not identical) to heat sink compound used with solid state reticfiers to prevent excessive heat and consequent burn out.
However, I would suggest that your local GM dealer supply this special grease for maximum burn-out protection

[73stepside]

you can get a junk yard hei to run good in anything, but if you want all out power and an advance curve dialed in for you, then give davis unified ignition a call. there stock replacement hei is one of the most expensive on the market but all you have to do is drop it in and fire it up. it will spin to 7000 rpm before it even decides to hiccup.

[GMC Jim]

I took my junk yard HEI unit and a qualified distributor repair shop here in Portland Oregon and they set up the factory specified advance curve with the proper weights and springs. They also checked mechanical parts for wear; checked electronic module and replaced the special silicone heat sink grease.....The cost was $60.00 Very, very reasonable I would say. !!!!

[Wabash]

thanx for all the replies guys but i will still be going with the hei and ditching the points.
i have never had any problems with the hei before.

[71-longbed]

instead of hei im gonna try out the pertronix igniter to keep the stock look ... i'll let you know how it turns out

[Longhorn Man]

71-longbed, I knew a guy who had that and he loved it. I don't know how high it'll rev, but it did run good and he had it for about 5 years and never had an issue with it.

[71-longbed]

i was questionable about there performance at first ...my brother recently bought one for his 68 F@%d Mustang.... he was very pleased ... that and all the good things ive heard sold me on the setup