HEI Swap ('72 1500): Parts List

[utee05]

Hi All,
I am finally going to do an HEI swap for my '72 1500 V8 350. To make things easier on myself I figured I would get recommendations on what parts I will need to get. Since I do not know how long ago the PO installed ignition items I am going to go ahead and get new plugs, wires, cap/rotor as well.

I assume I can just use the same ignition coil? I just bought a new one a couple weeks ago.

HEI: Something from a late 70s Chevy
Plug Wires: 76-78 Vette or Taylor 8mm Wires
Plugs: ?
Cap/Rotor: ?

Anything I might have missed? Also if anyone has specific part numbers from when they did their conversion would be helpful as well.

[PanelDeland]

Most HEI coils are integrated into the cap.It's a different style so you probably need a new one.Somewhere member "shifty" has a great write up on doing this to a 6.It has lot of info on how to wire it,parts # for electrical connectors and such.The HEI requires 12 volts so you will need to replace the resistor wire that is powering the coil now.

[utee05]

I found that thread. I had not noticed it listed out the parts. I assume I would just have to change some things around.

Here is a link to the thread to keep things in one place for me: Shiftys HEI Swap

[1972SUPERSB]

I just did this on my 72 as well. Pretty straight forward. I got the plug wires for a 75 vette and they fit pretty good
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[ole dollor]

just make sure you run a wire that has a full 12 volts from the ign. side of the fuse box, don't use the ign wire for the point dist. hot with ign. on and off when ign is off...

[Stocker]

You probably know this already, but since it hasn't been mentioned in this thread..... plugs are same as stock, and gapped at .045".

[GobbleStalker]

Originally Posted by ole dollor

just make sure you run a wire that has a full 12 volts from the ign. side of the fuse box, don't use the ign wire for the point dist. hot with ign. on and off when ign is off...

So what happens if you do use the points power wire?

[Zeke's Garage]

The original point power wire is a resistor wire, and only supplies about 7~8 volts. This keeps the arcing down between the points (along with the condenser). If you try to run the HEI with that level of power, your spark will be weaker and it can drop out at mid RPM's. Some ignition modules won't fire at all at that voltage.


Shawn

[Bigdav160]

Originally Posted by GobbleStalker

So what happens if you do use the points power wire?

The ignition coil is basically a step-up transformer. Lower voltage in will produce lower voltage out.

It makes it harder to fire the plugs.

[utee05]

Thanks for the reminder on the plug gap and ignition wire change.

@1972SUPERSB, what HEI did you go with?

Can I go with all my HEI related parts from a '75 vette as well or is there a cheaper option?

[1972SUPERSB]

Originally Posted by utee05

Thanks for the reminder on the plug gap and ignition wire change.

@1972SUPERSB, what HEI did you go with?

Can I go with all my HEI related parts from a '75 vette as well or is there a cheaper option?

I bought the GM performance parts HEI for a good price on amazon part #93440806.
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[utee05]

Originally Posted by 1972SUPERSB

I bought the GM performance parts HEI for a good price on amazon part #93440806.
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Looks like that part number is on sale for $125. Guess I'll go ahead and finally take the plunge and move to HEI. Thanks for the part number.

[Zeke's Garage]

Originally Posted by utee05

Looks like that part number is on sale for $125. Guess I'll go ahead and finally take the plunge and move to HEI. Thanks for the part number.

Just to throw this in.. I've purchased two of these, one for my 396 Chevelle, and another with a tach drive for my 427 Vette.. Worked flawlessly, and can be used with standard GM components like caps,coils, ignition modules as well as being able to swap the drive gears if you've got a billet cam. You may just want to verify that the advance canister is the same as yours.. I've heard of some aftermarket (even high dollar ones) having less vacuum advance than stock.


Shawn

[utee05]

Originally Posted by Zeke's Garage

Just to throw this in.. I've purchased two of these, one for my 396 Chevelle, and another with a tach drive for my 427 Vette.. Worked flawlessly, and can be used with standard GM components like caps,coils, ignition modules as well as being able to swap the drive gears if you've got a billet cam. You may just want to verify that the advance canister is the same as yours.. I've heard of some aftermarket (even high dollar ones) having less vacuum advance than stock.


Shawn

Hmm well that is a bit better in terms of price. I assume I could just order it and then if the vacuum advance isn't the same that I could just use my stock one, correct?

[72bowtiestepper]

Originally Posted by Zeke's Garage

Just to throw this in.. I've purchased two of these, one for my 396 Chevelle, and another with a tach drive for my 427 Vette.. Worked flawlessly, and can be used with standard GM components like caps,coils, ignition modules as well as being able to swap the drive gears if you've got a billet cam. You may just want to verify that the advance canister is the same as yours.. I've heard of some aftermarket (even high dollar ones) having less vacuum advance than stock.


Shawn

I have seen those Skip White distributors advertised elsewhere.....How long have you been running them in your vehicles? The price seems too good to be true .

[utee05]

Accidentally entered the post twice

[utee05]

Looks like it would work as is. Now decision between that one or an acdelco part.

[utee05]

I agree the price seems just too good. I went with the acdelco part that superswb posted earlier. Now to figure out the current problem with my remoter starter solenoid.

[utee05]

Well got the distributor in. I am just waiting on my new harness to get in.

I am curious about get the distributor at TDC. Any tips on how to do this?

[1972SUPERSB]

What I did was take out #1 spark plug which one on drivers side closest to front of truck. Then manually turn engine with a ratchet using the bolt on the balancer until you feel compression coming out of the hole where the #1 spark plug was. . Once you feel compression then the mark on the balancer should be close to the timing tab on the engine. This means your engine is at top dead center on cylinder #1. This is how I did it. Others may have different ways to do it.
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[GASoline71]

Ugh... I wouldn't use one of those china made Skip White distributors in any vehicle. There has been some testing by a one of the guys on here and the distributor isn't as grand as it seems. So yes... the price is too good to be true. There are some that use them and get lucky...

You need to have the engine at TDC as per your service manual. Plop the distributor in the hole with the rotor pointing at the #1 plug wire. Then bump the starter until the Distributor fully seats. EZPZ.

Gary

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by GASoline71

You need to have the engine at TDC as per your service manual.

No question that's probably the best way, but not absolutely necessary. You can pull the old and drop in the new as long as you mark exactly where the rotor is pointing and make sure the new one drops into the same position. And of course don't bump the starter or otherwise rotate the engine.

[utee05]

I got the GM ac delco starter. Decided I'd rather spend the money on this part.

To bump the starter I'd need something like this: Remote Starter Switch

[utee05]

Here is an image of the HEI I got.

I am curious about the wire connector it comes with and what I need to connect it to.

[utee05]

Here is a better pic of the cover