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05-26-2013, 12:24 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: ledgewood
Posts: 48
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newbie question 1-2 lowering
hi i just bought a 70 c10 i want to lower it a little bit 1.5-2" max can i cut about 1/2 coil all around or should i buy lowering springs? i see a lot of posts about lowering but most are looking for much lower(id even be happy w/1
") thanks for any help!! |
05-26-2013, 12:46 PM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Marquette michigan
Posts: 828
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Re: newbie question 1-2 lowering
Hi, new to the forum? welcome! I've been here a few months myself. I have a 68c10 and was a mechanic at dealerships for many years, so here is my suggestion as i did; keep the stock springs, go disc brake upgrade, (you will need to decide to stick with the 70 ball joint set up, or 71 and newer if i remember correctly). The disc brake up grade can be had stock height, or as i did go to the 2 1/2 lowered spindles, with stock springs. Now the truck will look like it's nose diving so i did 4" lower coils in the back. Everything came from ECE. I have hauled 1,000 lbs of pavers in the truck and not bottomed out on stock rear bump stops. Shock relocation is cheap and helps it control like stock. Do the disc brake upgrade and don't look back. This will also require brake distribution block change because of disc's. If you don't have power brakes now is the time to do it. What is your safety worth? That last second or two on old drum brakes just before impact and you will probably wish you had upgraded. My friend went cheap once on a safety related piece of equipment, and i told him he was soo cheap he invented copper wire by stretching a penny! A lot of great help here, so ask away. I have suggestions for a different power steering box, antisway bars etc, so do a long term goal list. Brian F.
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05-26-2013, 12:52 PM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: ledgewood
Posts: 48
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Re: newbie question 1-2 lowering
thanks! i have p/s and p/disc brakes in my long term plan but im 2-3 yrs out on that(2 sons in college) im looking for an inexpensive tweek for now as its a weekend truck for now. i will be picking your brain when the time comes though.
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05-29-2013, 09:23 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Chattanooga TN
Posts: 6,212
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Re: newbie question 1-2 lowering
Sup fellas! Thought I'd throw in my .02 worth. First welcome to the board..
When your 70 model truck was built, it had new springs in it of course .. right? It's now 43 years old. The springs have likely sagged a little over the years.. she's gettin a little old and we all sag a little over time. So, if you buy new 1" drop springs you will likely see a net drop of well .. nothing. You mentioned cutting a coil off. People do it all the time.. BUT, one thing you might want to consider is that spring is like a lever. I know it's in a coil shape but in theory it's just a straight piece of metal rod. Think of a diving board. The longer it is, the more it bends and feels more squishy. .. fat guy on a diving board .. now cut two feet off it .. would it bend as much? If you cut a coil off the spring will actually stiffen up and give you a more harsh ride. Same concept. Yes, it will lower the truck but it will make it ride a little different (not necessarily horrible) .. just more harsh than it does now. In addition to this you will need to get a front end alignment. The tires will be laying in at the top and the toe will be off a little. So, .. $115 for drop springs and $80 for an alignment.. OR Keep your factory springs and get 2" drop spindles for $225. As mentioned before the balljoints in these trucks are different from 63-70 than from 71-72. If you add disc brakes (will want to if you change spindles) you will also add about .5" of track width as compared to the factory drum brake setup. The front tires will be pushed out about .5" .. the key here is 'As compared to a factory drum brake setup' 71-72 disc brake components are also a tad wider up front than 63-70 drum brake stuff. If it were me, I'd save a little and do it all at once. I'd do 5 lug, discs, and 2" drop spindles. If you want to go lower later on then add drop springs. While you have it apart go ahead and replace the control arm bushings, ball joints (upper and lower with Moog parts) etc.. I read the budget part, but what I'm saying is if you do it just save a little and collect your parts as you can. before you know it you'll have everything you need then just take a weekend and convert it over
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Chad 1967 C10 SWB - Project Savannah - 6.0/4L80 *Currently underway* 1968 C10 SWB - TOTY 2018, 50th Anniversary Tribute Project * Sold * Pride and Joy 1986 Silverado Short Fleet - Scarlet *Sold* 1985 Silverado Short Fleet *Sold* 2022 Jeep Gladiator Mojave 2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ 4x4 - Lifted, Built 1992 Jeep Cherokee XJ 4x4 - Lifted 2013 Honda Accord EX-L v6 Coupe 6spd (wife's ride) |
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