paint,rust and 3m bonding

[Anti-Ricer]

I'm getting ready to paint my rims.I'm going to be replacing the tires too so I'm going paint the rims with the tires on them.No point in masking the tires because they are going to the dump.I'm wondering if anyone has a good way of removing the paint from the rims so I can paint them? Sand blasting is out of the picture so is paint stripper. maybe someone uses a certain tool or a certain sandpaper or something else. I'm not trying to get the rims to bare metal I just want them smooth so they look decent when I paint them.I'm not using primer or anything of that nature. I have red Rustoleum and I plan on spraying 3 coats on each rim.I currently only have a roll of 400 grit sandpaper for my Snapon DA which won't fit in the small grooves. I'm going to use my Matco 90 degree die grinder with a scuff pad on some of the rougher area's of the rims.



I'm seen on the show muscle car on the (power block) where they applied some rust treatment with a brush and it stops the rust turning it black. Can someone tell me what this stuff is called and does it really work like they showed on the show. But as usually I don't know what this stuff is called.

While I was in school ( Tennessee technology) auto body and collision : the teacher showed US this 3m adhesive stuff that newer cars and trucks were starting to use to bond panels ,in fact our teacher done a frame up restomod on a 78 check truck.he used the adhesive on the roof skin door skins and other parts. To get his point across on how strong this stuff is he got 2 pieces of sheet metal mixed the stuff.then put it between the sheet metal held with vise grips to dry over night. The next day he hooked it up to the frame rack and pulled them.To my and everyone elses surprise the sheet metal tore and the adhesive never budged.long store short I want some of this stuff because I'm going to be gluing (if that's the right word for it) the inner and outter rockers on the 65. This stuff will bond anything as long as it isn't structural.The benefits of this stuff include not warping / distorting the metal because you are not welding. It also acts as a weather seal so water doesn't get between the metal to make rust.The problem is I don't know what its called lol.if you have heard of this stuff and know where I can buy it please know thanks
Posted via Mobile Device

[WhippinSaw]

I used small, medium and large wire wheels to clean the wheels.
ask the guys in the paint and body forum, they might have an easier idea.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/f...splay.php?f=16

[joedoh]

make sure you pull the wheel weights before painting if you plan on taking the tires off.otherwise when you get new tires they will pull the weights and guess where there wont be any paint?

that panel bond shows through lighter colors. I know a few guys who used it to shave handles and they ended up with phantom handles where they bonded. Most body shops that use it do it where the bond will be covered by trim or bumpers or head/taillights.

[BR3W CITY]

Why are blasting and stripper out of the question?

As a rule of thumb...I always plan on strippers....but I'm fun to hang out with.

A wire wheel will work but they are a pain and chew up stuff. I think I even have a pic in build build of a piece of a wire wheel sticking out of my forehead. Aircraft stripper is cheap, brush on and available.

[Anti-Ricer]

Would it be safe too leave stripper on over night on the rims
Posted via Mobile Device

[BR3W CITY]

wouldn't hurt anything really but it wouldn't help you. If you leave stripper on too long all the solvents will evaporate, and the stuff that would have easily scraped or wiped off will have re-coagulated on the rim. Just give it an hour or two most of the time. Its ok to do a few rounds of it to get through lots of paint.

[tincan1966]

The adhesive you are referring to is called dura-bond and if you're thinking of using it as a cheap alternative to welding, you're going to be disappointed. The applicator gun required to apply it is almost $80 and the adhesive is usually around $65-80. There are several different types/grades, as well, depending on what panels your are applying it to.

And FYI rocker panels are a structural part. You can still "glue" them on, but you'll also want to spot weld them, like the factory. I have used the durabond on quarter panels and door skins several times, as well as bonding fiberglass hood scoops to steel hoods. Properly finished out, never had any problems hiding the repair.

As far as your wheels go, you'll be there a long time with 400 grit paper.
I agree with previous remarks, if you do not want to sand blast them, stripper is going to be your best bet, and as mentioned, do not let it dry out while on there.
It would save a bunch of time to just blast them, prime them and paint them- and they'll look a lot better.

[T Smith]

Wire wheel on an angle grinder will do the job, that's how I did the rim for my spare.

[Dillon Rock]

Anyone have any good sites to patch panel sites? I need to replace the upper roof skin on my '64 stepside, some how someone let a hole create itself on the forward right-hand corner of the roof above the "A" pillar and tried to patch it with bond-o in the past and if I had a pic to show, y'all would see how well that held up.

[tincan1966]

Originally Posted by Dillon Rock

Anyone have any good sites to patch panel sites? I need to replace the upper roof skin on my '64 stepside, some how someone let a hole create itself on the forward right-hand corner of the roof above the "A" pillar and tried to patch it with bond-o in the past and if I had a pic to show, y'all would see how well that held up.

Don't think anyone makes new panels for the roof skin. Best bet is going to be a replacement from a donor cab. A lot of these trucks are rusted right above the windshield and forward roof portion.

[BR3W CITY]

If its a small enough patch, getting a whole cab would be crazy over doing it.

People tend to forget about the art of shaping a patch from sheetmetal. What would yall do if the car you had was too rare to just source replacement panels?

Go to Harbour Freight, but a set of Hammer and Dolly's for about $25. Grab a piece of 16-20ga sheet, anneal it, and start wacking. A simply patch on a large plane should be fairly easy to accomplish, and you'll be hella proud of yourself.

Btw Dillon, try not to hijack threads.

[Dillon Rock]

Much appreciated for the advice, and sorry if it seemed like I hijacked the thread guys, didn't mean to. I typed in the search bar body work and saw the title of this trhead and figured that it might be helpful. I'll look into doing what BR#W CITY said after I'm back from deployment.

[tincan1966]

I wasn't advising getting a whole cab for a small patch. Sorry if it came across that way. But a lot of us have parts cabs and trucks that we cut pieces off of here and there for such repairs.

As Br3w City said, a lot of the repairs need to be made. I, personally, enjoy the metal fab part, and ended up making all of my floor board panels, firewall and trans tunnel for my 'Burb from a sheet of 20 ga.