What would you do different?

[72c10suburban]

Im planning on swapping a 5.3/4l60 in to my 72 suburban. I've read countless treads on how to do this or that, this is what i used, etc. What i would like to know is once its all said and done, what would you have done different? Different manifolds? Went ahead and cammed it? Different fuel system? electric fans etc.

I know they're countless ways to do the same thing, im just hoping to do it once and be done. At least for a bit...

[BR3W CITY]

I would have mounted my fuel cell about 2" higher so it was easier to mount the FI fuel pump near the sump on the tank without lots of extra line. (can still do this actually)

I would also run -8AN to everything, as that little extra line size pays dividends when needing to upgrade the fuel system to support 500+hp. You can do it on -6 like I did, but there are up and down conversions that would just make going -8 from the start easier.

Order your wiring harness for EV1/EV6 injector plugs from the start (the "car" style aka the most common type) instead of the truck injector plugs (Delphi MultecII). This opens up a world of any aftermarket injector, as well as all of the o.e. options you can get from a junkyard. You can get some F*rd SVO 39-42lb injectors for about $50-75 or less, and they are a great upgrade to handle 450ish hp. Just PLAN on doing this from the start. Tell the harness guy you'll be using the car injectors, and he'll pre setup the harness for the right plugs and a little extra length on the pigtails to lay nicely.

Put a cam in it while the engine is out. I did this, tho now I'm changing my direction on the build and might need to do so again haha. Its the most bang-for-buck you'll get out of a mechanical part, and get the upgraded valve springs/pushrods/seats etc all at once. Its pretty easy even for a first-timer with the service manual. (Download it if you don't have it. I have a pdf copy if you can't find it posted on here). You also get the power and "feel" of the v8 that a stock engine doesn't really get.

Get a dyno tune. Again, I did this, but its something I would NEVER change. Mailorder tunes are OK to get the thing running; but to get the most power, driveability, and longevity out of your swap you really need a dyno tune. Its also a diagnostic tool, and will let you know if something is less than ideal (i.e. the cam you chose really wasn't a good pick, or your losing some compression on a few cylinders etc). A dyno is a safe place to shake loose any problems in a controlled environment, without doing damage to the car.

[softballnrd27]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

I would also run -8AN to everything, as that little extra line size pays dividends when needing to upgrade the fuel system to support 500+hp. You can do it on -6 like I did, but there are up and down conversions that would just make going -8 from the start easier.

This is also going to cost me extra $$ now bc I went the cheaper faster way to get it running, now I am having to go back and re-do the whole fuel system for future upgrades.

Make sure you have a solid plan of what you want in the end and build the supporting systems accordingly, i.e. fuel system

[72c10suburban]

Great info. The Suburban is going to be used as a weekend cruiser/occasional DD. I'm planning on going with the Comp 212/218 'low lift' cam which i believe should work ok with stock stall along with wither the comp or lunati spring kit. I was going to run an in-tank pump using the vetteworks weld in ring, but I'm leaning towards something like the walbro 255 on the frame rail so future upgrades will go a little easier. Im hoping to run the factory 5.3 fan in a plastic shroud, but i guess that depends on how my mounts work out. I've got a $4500 budget and between engine, trans, cam and springs, i figure theyll take up 2500 or so from what i've seen locally on Craigslist leaving about 2000 for wiring, mail order tune, cooling, fuel etc. I was planning on the Dyno tune but im not factoring that in on the initial budget. The 4500 i hope gets it going down the road.

[softballnrd27]

For me I would have went ahead and got a fuel cell instead of using an 87 side tank. I am having to redo my fuel system now that I am starting to upgrade it more. I also would have ordered Holley Dominator EFI engine control bc I am going to use it later.

[solidaxel]

Originally Posted by softballnrd27

For me I would have went ahead and got a fuel cell instead of using an 87 side tank. I am having to redo my fuel system now that I am starting to upgrade it more. I also would have ordered Holley Dominator EFI engine control bc I am going to use it later.

Is your tank not working for you, what did not work for you with this tank?
I just instsalled one, but have another project with a LQ4, so which fuel cell are you looking at?

[whitels1]

I spent over 5k on mine and I did all of the work, however I did rebuild the engine. One thing I would have done different with the fuel tank, is to keep the stock sender in place and weld the vett works ring off to the side so that I could have used my factory fuel gauge. I can still read the fuel level with a tech2 or a volt meter, but I need a gauge. I'm still brainstorming ideas of how to achieve this.