When do you just say too much metal repair?

[Mgicm]

Hi
So I bought this 'rat rod' and just didnt like the way it was done. Pulled cab off and wow..the rot! There is so much to replace that I wonder if it makes sense to just get another cab. Problem is that Im going for the rat look so the black body has to match the bed/fenders etc. I just think i am not experienced enough to cut out and weld all the metal. It really needs an entire floor section with rockers, firewall, toeboard and kickpanels.

Have any been at this point? Maybe I should look on craigslist for a cab to try and match somehow that is not too bad and part this cab out? Looking for opinions. Would show some pics if any are interested.

thanks Kevin

[vht]

You can use sheet metal and make a floor. Buy the other patch panels and your set. It won't have to be perfect for a ratrod so it would be a good 1 to learn on. Look over some of the projects on here, there is a wealth of good ideas and some great fab work.

[Kim57]

I replaced my floor and fire wall with sheet metal. Takes a little fab but much cheaper than replacement panels and on a rat rod who's going to care.
Kim

[Mgicm]

How did you approach it? I need to replace rockers, floors , kickpanel, part of toeboard and then figure how to weld up holes in firewall. It is like there is no place to start. Did you make templates for the pieces from cardboard? What gauge steel did you use?

[STOCKISH]

Can you post some pics so we can see where you are starting? Ive done alot of rust replacement panels so maybe I can help as well.

[Mgicm]

If you go to this link below you can see some pics. Note that the cab is suspended above frame in my garage might take a second to get bearings.

http://prourl.com/51/

Yes... I have alot of junk in garage.

The more I look..the more I get overwhelmed. Just looks like too much to cut out and redo and keep the patina. Sure appreciate help!

kev

[mechanixman]

If I were you, I'd use road signs!
If everything is still holding together, I'd start with the floors, then toe board, kick panels, and running boards. Before you replace the floor, there is a brace that runs from the trans cover to the door jamb. I would strengthen that, so you have a little sturdier a cab.
Here's what I did to mine.
After I cut the floor:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=177
Strengthening the brace:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=181
Hope that helps!

[STOCKISH]

OK man, heres what I would do. First you need to get the doors back on it and get them lined up as best as possible and add some 1x1 steel braces from the front to rear and side to side of the cab to get it as square as possible. If you start the rust repair as it sits you will likely not ever get the doors to fit properly.
Then, start with the floor. You can make a sub floor (like in a house) out of
1x3 or something similar than cover it with 16 gauge sheet metal. Then just add from there, but if you dont have a good foundation to build from the cab wont ever sit square and doors and other panels wont line up well at all.
Dont let it overwhelm you, you wont be driving it next month regardless so just take your time and have fun with it.
Lastly, dont be afraid to ask questions, there is so much talent on this site its rediculous. Good luck, I look forward to seeing more progress.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by 1972SuperCheyenne

OK man, heres what I would do. First you need to get the doors back on it and get them lined up as best as possible and add some 1x1 steel braces from the front to rear and side to side of the cab to get it as square as possible. If you start the rust repair as it sits you will likely not ever get the doors to fit properly.
Then, start with the floor. You can make a sub floor (like in a house) out of
1x3 or something similar than cover it with 16 gauge sheet metal. Then just add from there, but if you dont have a good foundation to build from the cab wont ever sit square and doors and other panels wont line up well at all.
Dont let it overwhelm you, you wont be driving it next month regardless so just take your time and have fun with it.
Lastly, dont be afraid to ask questions, there is so much talent on this site its rediculous. Good luck, I look forward to seeing more progress.

Josh gave some good advice there. Since you currently have easy access to the inside I'd set the cab solidly on a pair of saw horses or something similar where i had access to the inside, install the doors and get the gaps perfect and then brace the daylights out of the inside of the cab.

From past experience one has to get the door gaps perfect first before doing anything else to these cabs. I learned that the hard way on my first chop job. I'd put the doors back on and put a piece of 1/8 x1 flatbar between the edge of the door and the edge of the door opening front and back and maybe use some ratchet tie downs to snug it up and then go in and brace the cab and weld in a piece of tubing to support the edges of the floor at the door jamb or weld in the proper replacement panels if you want to spring for them. As you aren't "restoring it to original" a piece of tubing at floor level and at the bottom of the opening with enough room between them and the door for a filler panel on the outside should get things real solid and you can build a framework for the floor like he said above. That will give you a solid base to work with.

[Mgicm]

Awesome... I need to get the frame out today so I have some nice room to work. As you mentioned, will put doors on first and get that all working as it should as I dont want to put on the parts and have the doors not shut lol! Trying to see how I can put the cab on a cart or something with no floors so i can work on it. Ive seen people make those little wooden rolling carts but i have no floors really so what would it sit on. Maybe I should flip it 90 degrees? Might have to figure this out first.

Where do you guys get your metal.. a local place? Found one near me but only open during 9-5 so tough to get there during the week and HD/Lowes metal seems very expensive.

I have some new floor supports but does anyone have pics of a subfloor? Curious how that is done and where it is welded.

[mechanixman]

I go to a metal shop similar to yours when I have the day off, and stock up on materials. I bought a heavy duty drawer made out of 18 gauge, for $25. It was enough for my floor, both kick panels, and the corners of my firewall.
I don't know much about sheet steel, but if you're looking for tubing, some one passed this tip along to me: Check out your local honda motorsports dealership. They bring the bikes and ATVs over in crates reinforced with 1in square steel tubing. Once the dealer has the bike, they scrap (or sell off cheaply) all of that metal.

[Mgicm]

a drawer? interesting.. so what did you just use the base of it for your metal? Must have been a big drawer.

Would love to see some pics of anyone who did subfloor to get an idea on how to design it.

thanks everyone!

kev

[mechanixman]

Yeah, the base and a couple edges.
The drawer was about 2'X3'
I'm sorry I don't really have any pics of a subfloor, but if I were to make one, it'd look something like this.

[OrrieG]

72supercheyenne beat me to it...make sure your doors and window openings are right and brace it. I get the ratrod thing, but the doors do need to close and latch. Since that is the theme, just about every panel can be flat without all the factory stamping. Cab corners are obvious exception. If the lower hinge pockets are gone those are one that are worth buying. Get lots of cardboard and make up templates to transfer to metal. Get an old fender to practice welding on. Once you get going it proceed pretty fast.

[G&R's57GMC]

Hmm ....

[Mgicm]

Pictures of my flooring mess is here:

http://prourl.com/51/

[OrrieG]

The passenger side being cut out could be a problem, but fixable if the door hinges are good and you can get the doors hung to square up the cab and make sure the windshield opening is correct and get it braced up.

With that much rust I would look closely at the upper window pillars and around the window openings. If they are rusted out, I would start looking for a new cab.

[mr48chev]

This is a thread on the Hamb that I saved for reference for My Model A Victoria project.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...=395833&page=3
Scroll through it and you can see how he built the subframe for the floor similar to what Mechanicsman was showing in post 12. That should give you some ideas to go with on redoing the floor.

[Mgicm]

cool link... thanks

To me the first step after getting it all squared up is to do the rockers and then I at least can put in supports and lay floor.

thanks!

[Cape Codder]

I buy new 18 gauge sheetmetal for $40 for a 4x4 sheet. You can use old car hoods cheaper but it will be twice as much work and harder to weld. If you plan on doing future projects too start out with a decent mig welder and start looking for other sheet metal tools. A break for bending can be bought from a sheet metal shop upgrading or closing. I have a bead roller and it is great for floor work. Shrinker and stretcher are handy too. Craigslist is good for used equipment.

[Mgicm]

Well im in deeper into this sheetmetal project and sure could use a full pan, firewall, toeboard, and inner cowls to make this go easier. I just dont think putting 500-1000 in stamped metal is the way to go in this ratrod but i cant even figure where to start as I just keep cutting and cutting metal. I have the firewall which I can weld up holes in it and maybe half of the toeboard but everything else is shot. it is hard to get a good starting point as theres not much left.

Does anyone know of a power saw that is small to get in tight spots? I want to cut away metal but using non-air tools it is hard. They are too big & bulky. Looking for a small saw like a jigsaw that i can use to cut away in tight spots.


thanks

[mr48chev]

I do a lot of my cutting like that with a 4-1/2 inch Harbor Freight angle grinder and cut off disks. A lot of guys use those small air powered saws that use a blade that is kind of between a sawzall blade an a saber saw blade too. Similar to this http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...FWGCQgodA3EAQw
A lot of outfits make and sell them at a lot of different price levels.

[Mgicm]

that would be perfect but currently im without a compressor. Didnt want to spend 300-500 on one just to get a lil saw. Too bad there is nothing like this corded rather than a compressor.

My dilemma right now is whether to order $800-1000 in preformed sheetmetal which would make my life easier to put it all together - firewall, toeboard, floor, rockers, inner cowls, etc. or maybe just buy some tools and sheetmetal and do it from templates. Arguments either way...but i could buy alot of tools & metal with that money.

thanks

[OrrieG]

I cannot imagine doing anything this complex without an air compressor. air powered body saw is smaller than any electric one I have, even the cheap black and decker battery one I take to wrecking yards. I guess you could use hand files for dressing the metal panels to fit.

[Rednek13x]

If your going the rat build, i would take that money, get some basic sheet metal tools, but some metal and build it your self, for how much is gone on your truck, it might look intimidating but lay out a plan and go. Should not be all too difficult. Plus its not a trailer queen.