First square. 1980 GMC

[Mayhem.Evol]

Hey guys, I finally got this project home this Saturday. Bought it a week ago, but couldn't get it back here. I'll include pics at the end of the text

I have a bunch of questions because i picked this thing up really cheap and know it needs alot of work. I have no mechanical experience or fabricating. I've wanted a 73-87 since I was 15 so I went for it. I know I'm jumping in way over my head but I want to learn every single thing I can..

So it's pretty rough, bed is rusted through and damaged on the side. I suppose I can try to find another bed to put on it. I haven't got to get completely through the cab yet to see what the deal is there. The hood is obviously bent, but closes somewhat. I'll find another for it if I can. There is some weird wiring done I think, and i'll have to try to sort that out.

My biggest questions is where do i start?? It doesn't run.. supposedly needs new head gaskets. I don't think the carb was functioning right, so I just pulled it off tonight, with tons of pics of everything how it goes. Going to try to find out a model on it for maybe a rebuild if possible... all I can see on it now is Rochester Quadrajet.. So ill clean a bit and see if there is anything else written on it. Hmm there is the numbers 17080206 on it, a quick google search brought me to some pics and rebuild kits.

Well here are the pics, just an Imgur album. I can upload them right onto this post if y'all would prefer.

http://imgur.com/a/f7hBv

[Sodell]

First order of business is to buy a repair manual... and get to know your local pick n pull, and craigslist...

[Mayhem.Evol]

Originally Posted by Sodell

First order of business is to buy a repair manual.

Yeah i didn't even think about that even though I just got one for my dodge. From the vin, I'm pretty sure it came with a 305 and it has an older gm 350 in it right now.. or according to the valve covers and what the guy said haha.

[BADAZ chevy guy]

Originally Posted by Mayhem.Evol

Yeah i didn't even think about that even though I just got one for my dodge. From the vin, I'm pretty sure it came with a 305 and it has an older gm 350 in it right now.. or according to the valve covers and what the guy said haha.

Welcome to the forum! You'll find everything from A/C to Vacuum here and a lot of guys to ask questions from.
Does the VIN start CCL (350) or CCR (400)? I don't see an option for a 305 on my VIN spec sheet.

[Mayhem.Evol]

Originally Posted by BADAZ chevy guy

Welcome to the forum! You'll find everything from A/C to Vacuum here and a lot of guys to ask questions from.
Does the VIN start CCL (350) or CCR (400)? I don't see an option for a 305 on my VIN spec sheet.

Thanks! I've browsed these forums for years and saw N2TRUX's truck a few months back at a show 5 miles from my house. He's helped me out alot with looking back when i was 15 and now again at 20.

My VIN starts w/ TCG I'm pretty sure(don't have it on me right now) and the decoder i looked at said T = GMC C = conventional cab and G = 5.0L 2bbl.. however I think it has a 350 in it? I haven't looked up how to really tell, it says 350 on the valve covers and thats what he said was in it.

Originally Posted by mrolds88

Check the block numbers, directly in front of ta passenger side head stamped on the block surface. That will tell you what it is Other than the hood, the body looks nice. One of the first things I would do that I noticed that needs to be undone is the fuel line. Truck came from the factory with steel line the whole way from pump to carb. I would put it back that way. As far as the head gaskets, check your compression before you do anything. Not terribly difficult.

Okay, I'll look up how to check the compression and try it out this week.. I'll also find out which lines you're talking about. I wasn't lying when I said I literally know nothing at all lol

[mrolds88]

Check the block numbers, directly in front of ta passenger side head stamped on the block surface. That will tell you what it is Other than the hood, the body looks nice. One of the first things I would do that I noticed that needs to be undone is the fuel line. Truck came from the factory with steel line the whole way from pump to carb. I would put it back that way. As far as the head gaskets, check your compression before you do anything. Not terribly difficult.

[TexasJeff]

Welcome to the forums, from a fellow Texas guy, that does not live to far from you. The truck is a little rough around the edges, but that is how mine started to, to there is lots of hope for the old girl. Looks to me that the person before you bought a GM Target Master engine and did a swap, I would bet money that is not the original engine.

[motornut]

nice score,looks solid
I'd lube up the hood,that can happen when the hinges seize up,

[Mayhem.Evol]

Originally Posted by TexasJeff

Welcome to the forums, from a fellow Texas guy, that does not live to far from you. The truck is a little rough around the edges, but that is how mine started to, to there is lots of hope for the old girl. Looks to me that the person before you bought a GM Target Master engine and did a swap, I would bet money that is not the original engine.

Yeah he said it wasn't and the vin says it came w/ a 305 not 350. and thanks for the welcome! Cool to see members somewhat close.



Also to anyone reading this, when you try to start the truck, you have to have it in reverse... how can I fix this? I have the carb off and whatnot right now but I'd like to know why I have to go from park to reverse to get it to even attempt to start and maybe fix it before putting the carb back on after cleaning/rebuilding(if I can haha).

[mrolds88]

Here's the lines I'm talking about. As far as starting in reverse, your neutral safety switch needs adjusted. Its on the lower end of the column, on top.

[Mayhem.Evol]

Originally Posted by mrolds88

Here's the lines I'm talking about. As far as starting in reverse, your neutral safety switch needs adjusted. Its on the lower end of the column, on top.

Ah thanks. I'll see what I can do about switching that line back to what it should be and adjusting the neutral safety switch if I can find it =p. Also have to find out what all the wires under the hood go to. I think the green one that is electrical taped into the battery and runs up the fire wall was for an amp/subs.

There are also random wires in the interior that I am not sure about.

I took the seat and carpet out today, not so pretty.. but I think it's not all horrible(if we forget about the floorboards)

[Mayhem.Evol]

I pulled off the dash pad thingy today and it was filthy underneath it. I also pulled the paneling under the steering wheel to look at the wiring.. I have no clue what any of it is lol. Any ideas?

Sorry for bad pictures, they didn't look that blurry on my phone.
The first pic is the radio. I'd like to remove it, but I'm not sure how to go about doing that. Can i just remove all wires completely that are connected to it? without messing anything else up.

The 2nd pic is a clump of wires hanging down. I don't know how to deal with these.. the orange and blue ones were running to the back of the seat for speakers/subs I think.

Any suggestions? or can someone point me in the right way to getting that mess cleaned up.

Also, is there a way to check if gauges work w/o the truck being on? probably a stupid question

And one last thing this post.. Any suggestions on a good way to clean up the metal of the floor in the cab? its just dirty and greasy and has rat crap on it. Not sure on the best way to get that up.

[Mayhem.Evol]

I can't seem to edit my post, I guess there is a time limit on it.. so sorry for the double!

Anyone have some recommendations for an engine stand? I did a search but alot of the links were outdated, so they didn't work anymore.

[Sodell]

There is a time limit to edit posts.....

Engine stands are pretty common, just make sure you get one that allows you to rotate the engine.

[Mayhem.Evol]

Originally Posted by Sodell

There is a time limit to edit posts.....

Engine stands are pretty common, just make sure you get one that allows you to rotate the engine.

I should get one with the U shape at the bottom and not a T though right?
Like this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-918014/overview/

[Sodell]

Yes, I would not buy one with a T.

[Sodell]

If you have a harbor Freight nearby, you can probably get one fairly inexpensive. If you plan on using infrequently they work fine.

[thefraze_1020]

You don't need a chemical to wire brush. Just try to get the floor as clean as possible first (vacuum up the dust and crap). Then just brush away. For now, you only need to brush up the rust, them hit it with a converter (like Conquest). Don't worry about the painted part of the floor until you're ready to repaint it.

[Mayhem.Evol]

Originally Posted by Sodell

If you have a harbor Freight nearby, you can probably get one fairly inexpensive. If you plan on using infrequently they work fine.

I think there may be one near houston. I'll check and see. Thanks for the advice

Originally Posted by thefraze_1020

You don't need a chemical to wire brush. Just try to get the floor as clean as possible first (vacuum up the dust and crap). Then just brush away. For now, you only need to brush up the rust, them hit it with a converter (like Conquest). Don't worry about the painted part of the floor until you're ready to repaint it.

ah, alright. I may put off the floor for a while and just try to get it running and whatnot first. So I'll just do cleaning and wait to strip it down.

Gonna order that rebuild kit and a book on it today. Pick up some carb cleaner or something today/tomorrow. Any suggestions on that? I've never cleaned a carb before. Will just any work fine? I'm guessing I'll want to get enough to soak it and not just the spray cans

[mrolds88]

While soaking has its advantages, so does the spray cans, with the straw. The soaking loosens stuff up and the spray blasts it away. Just wear some safety glasses. And make sure you get some good quality stuff. I have used some in the past that wouldn't clean a fart off of a chair in a windstorm. Make sure you clean the small passages with the straw too. Take your time and follow the directions and get your float and such set right. You will be fine.

[Mayhem.Evol]

Originally Posted by mrolds88

While soaking has its advantages, so does the spray cans, with the straw. The soaking loosens stuff up and the spray blasts it away. Just wear some safety glasses. And make sure you get some good quality stuff. I have used some in the past that wouldn't clean a fart off of a chair in a windstorm. Make sure you clean the small passages with the straw too. Take your time and follow the directions and get your float and such set right. You will be fine.

I grabbed a spray can and some wire brushes today. It worked pretty well. I just need to get some more of it tomorrow. I wasn't sure how well it'd work so I only got 1 can. My rebuild kit and book were ordered today so I've got a few days to get it all cleaned up nicely.

[Mayhem.Evol]

I also noticed that the dash backlighting and radio go out and the headlights were dimming when it tried to start. I read online that this could mean starter problems.. Any tests or whatnot I could do?

And as i said before, you have to have it in reverse to try to start it.. So maybe I should trouble shoot the whole ignition system/wiring before trying to start it anymore.

[mrolds88]

First pull the Battery and give it a full charge. Then have it load tested. Autozone or Advance should be able to handle that. Then if that tests OK then move to the starter. Pull it an AZ or ADV can test them too. Also at every terminal you take off, clean it. Those wire brushes you bought for the carb will work fine.

[Mayhem.Evol]

Originally Posted by mrolds88

First pull the Battery and give it a full charge. Then have it load tested. Autozone or Advance should be able to handle that. Then if that tests OK then move to the starter. Pull it an AZ or ADV can test them too. Also at every terminal you take off, clean it. Those wire brushes you bought for the carb will work fine.

Hmm, okay. I'll have the battery tested sometime this week if I can.

About the wire I burned up Where can i find a replacement? It's a little black cable that comes out of the negative cable and goes to a bolt above the inside of the headlight. Also I think ill just replace the battery cables aswell.

And where should I put the other end of the negative battery cable? It was connected to the top of the alternator shield(if that is the correct name)..

[thefraze_1020]

Originally Posted by Mayhem.Evol

Hmm, okay. I'll have the battery tested sometime this week if I can.

About the wire I burned up Where can i find a replacement? It's a little black cable that comes out of the negative cable and goes to a bolt above the inside of the headlight. Also I think ill just replace the battery cables aswell.

And where should I put the other end of the negative battery cable? It was connected to the top of the alternator shield(if that is the correct name)..

As far as I know, connecting to the alternator bracket is correct. That's the way it is on my '84. Although I've also seen it bolted to the exhaust manifold.

The negative is ground, so all you need is to hook it up something made of metal on the engine. Typically, alternator bracket or manifold is the best.