help axle keeps coming out

[SPANKY1960GMC]

Hey all

I have a 1960 gmc k1500 4x4 I think it is original limited slip rear end .The problem is every few years the axle berring gives up and the axle creeps out last time on the freeway at about 60 miles an hour .Thank god no one was hurt .I think because of tire and wind noise I am not hearing trouble until it is to late.Do any of you have a modification or idea what can be done to keep this from happening .Is there something causing berrings to flyapart? should they last I have had truck over thirty years now. I don't abuse this truck but it will spend more time sitting than on the road .

Thanks Spanky

[1963c-10]

what rearend do you have in the truck? reason i ask is that a positive id on it might help someone diagnose the issue.

[66Submarine]

IIRC a GMC K1500 was a 3/4 ton that came with a Dana 60 axle, right?

At any rate, what you describe certainly sounds unacceptable, and it certainly shouldn't be regularly happening like that! It sounds like you might not even have the original axle, anyway. Is it a full-floating axle with the big hubs and eight lugs?

[Captainfab]

If the axle/wheel bearing is failing and the axle comes out, that sounds like a Dana 44 axle, which is what I believe a GMC 1500 should have. If it is a Dana 60, what the OP is describing shouldn't be happening with a full floating differential.

[66customcamper]

That bearing failure is a too-common problem with full size jeeps (wagoneers/cherokees/trucks) that use the D44.

Here's a thread on IFSJA.org (I have an '84 Grand Wagoneer) where they talk about the quality decline of Timken bearings and some other pertinent info:

http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...rear+axle+fail

Here's a couple highlights:

"He said a common problem is people will press the bearing and collar together and it deforms the cage. I didn't know if he was right or wrong, but he took a tube, slid it over the shaft, and pressed on the bearing using the inner race of the bearing. Then he pressed on the collar separately."

"This is entirely a derivative of end play. Per the service manual, end play should be .000" to .015". My bearings are 2 years old, 5K miles and measure .310". That is huge! From what I can tell, the thickness of the outer wheel seals have gotten smaller. Most all measure .375" thick. We need to be using the National Oil Seal #9912 that measures .470" thick. It is the only one that is thick any more. A guy has a shim kit and beefy backing plates, http://www.betterscoutparts.com/Page_1.html This is a good read and why our bearings are dying. A tapered bearing should be fully engaged to last."

[66Submarine]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

that sounds like a Dana 44 axle, which is what I believe a GMC 1500 should have.

I agree that's what it sounds like, but a 1500 GMC is a 3/4 ton and should have came with a D60 originally. The D44 was used under the 1000 1/2 tons. I'm guessing someone probably swapped the original axles out for half ton stuff at some point, which was why I asked.

Easy fix if that's it; just swap that lame 1/2 ton stuff out for a set of real 3/4 ton truck axles like God intended!

[SPANKY1960GMC]

My bad my truck is the 1960 k1000 1/2 ton with m44r axle

first off thanks to all for the replies
scince i just rebuilt the diff I think i will try the link for upgraded retainers and seals and will mention the installation advise to my local shop
this kind of response is just what i expect from such a great forum
keep on supporting old truck smucks like me and i ll do my best to turn the favor.
best of luck to all and thanks again

Just in case do any of you know of a scrap yard( year model )donner truck with full floating rear end that would bolt up to this truck?

SPANKY

[Captainfab]

A Eaton HO52 from a '60-'72 K20 should bolt up, but I would not recommend that differential. I would go with a Dana 60 or a 14 bolt, but the spring perches may need to be moved. Be aware that when changing to a full floating differential you will have an 8 lug wheel bolt pattern on that differential. Plus with a 4x4, you must match the gear ratio that you have in the front differential. The front differential will be very slightly higher geared that the rear. IE: 4.09 in the front, 4.10 in the rear

[66Submarine]

Well, I have no idea what would be closest swap as far as a donor, but the full-float Dana 60 rear and the 14 bolt GM are both super common and have great aftermarket support. The problem is that those are also going to be eight lug axles, which means you'll probably want/need to swap the front along with it.

You'll obviously also need to find something that has the same gear ratio if you keep the front, but you also might want to just look at better semi-float axles which will have the six lug pattern, or could be re drilled for it.

[66Submarine]

You beat me to it again, lol...

[61K10]

why not just a 12B

[66Submarine]

Originally Posted by 61K10

why not just a 12B

That's what a better semi float axle like I suggested would be, but I'm not sure if there would be a match for his front axle's ratio in the 12 bolt truck selection. And even if there is a potential combo that works, it might be cheaper/easier for him to just swap in two new junkyard axles that match.

[SPANKY1960GMC]

Hey all
Thanks again

Looking at some retainer plates on ebay and noticed what looked like my plate labeled model 20

The ID plate on top of diff read" m44r " I think it was a 390 ratio, dose this mean i have a model 20 jeep dana or the m44r used a retainer simular to the model 20?

One more thing I was planning on buying the TABOR thick aluminum flat plate, will that work or do I need one that looks like a cuped model 20? dose TABOR have a cuped plate? or iam I out of luck?

do to Budgit, I need to fix this side the best way i can and watch the berrings close for any wear util I can correct the other side the TABOR sounds like way to go???


Thanks Spanky