Leaking bajo bolts on disc brake conversion

[supertrkr]

Hey guys I just put a CPP disc brake conversion on the front of my 68 C10. I was putting brake fluid in the master cylinder tonight and I saw a steady stream of fluid coming from both sides. I cranked on the bolts to the point where they might break and it's still leaking. I took the bolts out and flipped the washers and verified the bolt wasn't bottoming out in the caliper. Also I am using two washers. One on top of the ho s e and one where it meets the caliper. I am at a loss and I was wondering if anybody has a solution or been through this before.

[Ol Blue K20]

Is the washer copper or aluminum? I have had some washers that were too hard. Try some different washers. I prefer fer a soft copper washer.

[supertrkr]

Got it figured out. Thanks for the reply..

[Zeke's Garage]

Glad you got it figured out, what was your solution? I had the same issue with the upgrade on my '67 and ended up using two of the copper washers to get it to seal properly.

[brown7373]

Yeah, I had the issue too. What was the solution?

[supertrkr]

Sorry it took so long to reply guys. Been super busy. Anyway the lines were upside down. Yeah I know stupid me. The month on the banjo fitting needs to be facing up. I had it facing down thinking the notch was for keeping the brake line from moving. Oh well live and learn I guess. Thanks for the replies tho.

[jeffahart]

I'm having a similar problem with the front "Old School" banjo style front T . Picked below; I tried to use a 1/4 - 3/16 adapter for my Dana60 swap. The 1/4 banjo bottoms out in the female threads on the 1/4 end of the adapter. I tried everything to stop it from leaking. I tried a thick copper washer and it only left a couple threads and I stripped one of the adapter(all two threads it was getting a bite on). You can see the female side of the adapter is shallow. I currently scabbed the dana44 line in-line as an adapter. I'm currently on the hunt for the 1/4-1/4 female 3/16 male T or an adapter with a deeper 1/4" female end.

[merlin3]

i have the same problem;this is what i have tried,new brake hoses,3 different brands of copper washers,new calipers,tried annealing the washers also tried tightening the bolt till it might snap and both sides STILL LEAK.

[brown7373]

I had the same problem on my 1972 Cutlass. The problem was the caliper mounting boss was bad. They are supposed to have concentric rings, just like the brake hoses to bite into the washer to seal. I kept getting calipers with almost smooth mounting boss, or rings with a "cut" across them. These were rebuilds from NAPA (Cardone). I was on the phone with Cardone numerous times. They are aware of the problem, but it took weeks to find good cores to rebuild. Others have told me they used to, and are supposed to use a tool to resurface the boss to put in new rings. Have they discontinued that process?

Pictures 1 & 2 show a smooth mounting boss on the right. Picture 34 shows a cut across the rings at 12:00.

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by brown7373

I was on the phone with Cardone numerous times. They are aware of the problem, but it took weeks to find good cores to rebuild. Others have told me they used to, and are supposed to use a tool to resurface the boss to put in new rings. Have they discontinued that process?

Good info!
I think it may be that they can get away with it because the average parts swapper has a high tolerance for a class 1 leak; because they don't want to take the part back off and do the job again.

2 cents.

[brown7373]

Another problem is the length of the banjo bolts. Most sold today are 7/8 long. I'm not sure what the Chevy Manual calls for fur trucks, but the cars call for 1 3/32 length. Some of the calipers threads do not start at the top of the bore, as in picture 3 of my previous post, and the shorter bolts would not have enough thread to bite.

[merlin3]

great info i will check the calipers,thanks