Replacing Floor in CAB - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

charles oliver · 08-15-2003, 06:39 AM

I need to replace the floorboard in an otherwise perfect cab. The person I purchased the truck from had allowed a windshield to leak for quite some time. The floorboard is in pretty bad shape.
The cab braces need replaced also.

The question is can this be replaced without removing the cab ? Any tricks or ideas ?
Thanks
Charlie
ceoliver@fuse.net

ZOOMY · 08-15-2003, 06:58 AM

Yes it can if you can weld laying on your back and weld overhead. You'll need a welding suit of some sort to keep the red hot mini-balls from burning you and excellent eye protection cutting out some of the old stuff from below.

big blue 72 · 08-15-2003, 10:12 AM

Hey Another Buckeye!
Welcome to the best site on the planet. Lots of Good people here
Welcome Charles.
Big Blue 72

**Bernie** · 08-15-2003, 10:46 AM

The big think to know, I speak from bitter experience, is that when the floor rusts out, the cab changes shape. This means that nothing, doors,rockers, cab corners will fit right. I gave up and got another cab. If I had to do it again I would have measured another cab and pulled mine back into shape.

bobs409 · 08-15-2003, 12:38 PM

I replaced the driver side on mine from the top with no problems. Mine needed the rocker replaced too so I did that part first to keep everything in line. Nothing moved on it after that was in place.

Lay in the new floor section to mark it off and cut out the old floor. Get yourself a spot weld cutter as there there many to drill out. Drill out the ones that go from floor to support. Once the floor is out of the way, the rest is easy to see and work on.

Once all the old is out, weld in the new support, then the floor.

The only time I had to go under was to seal up the welded area with seam sealer and to undercoat.

Hardrock2 · 08-15-2003, 07:23 PM

Hey Charlie, and welcome!!

If the cab is otherwise perfect, then it would be worth a new floor in my opinion.
You could go the patch it up route, or if you want to do a little extra work, you could have a pretty nice cab when you're done.

Here's what I did in your same situation.
I hunted around for a southern rust free cab that was lightly rolled. (to bad to do a roof clip.)
Bought it for $75.00
I cut away everything , down to the OEM stamped floor. (Get a spot weld cutting bit for your drill, it's alot cleaner, easier!)
Cleaned and blasted it, primed it. and set it aside.
Then, I alligned my doors to the good cab, did it twice to make sure everything was good.
(You might have to "tweak" the cab, if it has settled over a bad floor)
I made a triangulated brace for each door opening, that started at the door latch and ended up at both the upper and lower door hinge mount. (2X2X1/8 angle, and some 1/8" flat plate works fine.)
When you're sure everything iswell braced, start drilling spot welds!!
Remove your outer rockers first, then work your way along the back of the cab floor, then across the lower firewall seam at the front.
When every spot weld is cut, you will notice that the floor is still held by bolts at the lower 4 corners of the door posts.
That's the last thing holding the floor in.
Remove them, and shear any remaining spot welds that didn't break through, and 4 guys should be able to lift the cab off. (assuming you have already stripped it of the seat, column, glass, etc.)
Dress all of the mating surfaces where you will need to re-weld the spots. ( priming is also a good idea)
Zip your old cab bolts loose, and toss the old floor.
Position the new floor back on the frame with new rubber (or ureathane) and lower the cab back over it.
Line the bolt holes up at all 4 door posts, and clamp it up around the perimeter.
STAND BACK and eyeball EVERYTHING one more time. (CRITICAL)
I then pulled the door braces, and re-hung, aligned my doors once more, (just to be sure!)
Once the door alignment looks good........weld'er back up!!
3M seam seal everything back to original, and fit your rockers!!

This is alot more work than a lot of guys want to do to save an old cab, but if it's nice everywhere else, don't pitch it or cobble it .........Restore it!!! Ha,Ha!!
Also, it requires more labor than $$$, so it worked good for me!

P.S. Nothing is more disturbing than purchasing a fine old classic truck, and pulling back the mat only to find a
"TIAIWAN LISCENSE PLATE" wher the floor is supposed to be!!!
LOL!!

Mike

DMAN · 08-16-2003, 12:34 AM

Rockers & floor panels are next on my list. Which board vendor sells the best quality replacement panels?

Hardrock2 · 08-16-2003, 01:43 AM

When it comes to rockers, or any replacement panel, for that matter, try to get the ones that are at least the same guage or heavier than the originals.

GMC Pauls is a good place to look.
Most any vendor on this board is probably going to have the good stuff. They seldom steer a guy wrong!

Mike

08-15-2003, 06:39 AM	#1
charles oliver 68 camtruck Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Harrison, Ohio USA Posts: 233	Replacing Floor in CAB I need to replace the floorboard in an otherwise perfect cab. The person I purchased the truck from had allowed a windshield to leak for quite some time. The floorboard is in pretty bad shape. The cab braces need replaced also. The question is can this be replaced without removing the cab ? Any tricks or ideas ? Thanks Charlie ceoliver@fuse.net

08-15-2003, 06:58 AM	#2
ZOOMY Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: WIS Posts: 1,752	welding Yes it can if you can weld laying on your back and weld overhead. You'll need a welding suit of some sort to keep the red hot mini-balls from burning you and excellent eye protection cutting out some of the old stuff from below.

08-15-2003, 10:46 AM	#4
Bernie Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Northern Illinois Posts: 516	The big think to know, I speak from bitter experience, is that when the floor rusts out, the cab changes shape. This means that nothing, doors,rockers, cab corners will fit right. I gave up and got another cab. If I had to do it again I would have measured another cab and pulled mine back into shape. __________________ Bernie

08-15-2003, 12:38 PM	#5
bobs409 1969 Custom 30 wrecker Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Pottsville, Pa Posts: 2,611	I replaced the driver side on mine from the top with no problems. Mine needed the rocker replaced too so I did that part first to keep everything in line. Nothing moved on it after that was in place. Lay in the new floor section to mark it off and cut out the old floor. Get yourself a spot weld cutter as there there many to drill out. Drill out the ones that go from floor to support. Once the floor is out of the way, the rest is easy to see and work on. Once all the old is out, weld in the new support, then the floor. The only time I had to go under was to seal up the welded area with seam sealer and to undercoat. __________________ Bob 63 Impala 283/PG/3.36 (under restoration) 66 Impala 327/PG/3.36 66 Chevelle SS 409/M22/3.55 69 Chevelle 307/PG/3.08 (future restoration) 69 C10 short stepside 454/TH350/3.73 69 Custom 30 tow truck 350/4 spd/4.10 (resto done, CRUISIN TIME!) 71 Cheyenne 20 fleetside 350/4 spd/4.10 71 Chevelle 6/PG/3.08 72 Chevelle 454/M21/4.10 Last edited by bobs409; 08-15-2003 at 12:41 PM.

08-15-2003, 07:23 PM	#6
Hardrock2 A$$ deep into trucks Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Central Illinois,USA Posts: 249	Hey Charlie, and welcome!! If the cab is otherwise perfect, then it would be worth a new floor in my opinion. You could go the patch it up route, or if you want to do a little extra work, you could have a pretty nice cab when you're done. Here's what I did in your same situation. I hunted around for a southern rust free cab that was lightly rolled. (to bad to do a roof clip.) Bought it for $75.00 I cut away everything , down to the OEM stamped floor. (Get a spot weld cutting bit for your drill, it's alot cleaner, easier!) Cleaned and blasted it, primed it. and set it aside. Then, I alligned my doors to the good cab, did it twice to make sure everything was good. (You might have to "tweak" the cab, if it has settled over a bad floor) I made a triangulated brace for each door opening, that started at the door latch and ended up at both the upper and lower door hinge mount. (2X2X1/8 angle, and some 1/8" flat plate works fine.) When you're sure everything iswell braced, start drilling spot welds!! Remove your outer rockers first, then work your way along the back of the cab floor, then across the lower firewall seam at the front. When every spot weld is cut, you will notice that the floor is still held by bolts at the lower 4 corners of the door posts. That's the last thing holding the floor in. Remove them, and shear any remaining spot welds that didn't break through, and 4 guys should be able to lift the cab off. (assuming you have already stripped it of the seat, column, glass, etc.) Dress all of the mating surfaces where you will need to re-weld the spots. ( priming is also a good idea) Zip your old cab bolts loose, and toss the old floor. Position the new floor back on the frame with new rubber (or ureathane) and lower the cab back over it. Line the bolt holes up at all 4 door posts, and clamp it up around the perimeter. STAND BACK and eyeball EVERYTHING one more time. (CRITICAL) I then pulled the door braces, and re-hung, aligned my doors once more, (just to be sure!) Once the door alignment looks good........weld'er back up!! 3M seam seal everything back to original, and fit your rockers!! This is alot more work than a lot of guys want to do to save an old cab, but if it's nice everywhere else, don't pitch it or cobble it .........Restore it!!! Ha,Ha!! Also, it requires more labor than $$$, so it worked good for me! P.S. Nothing is more disturbing than purchasing a fine old classic truck, and pulling back the mat only to find a "TIAIWAN LISCENSE PLATE" wher the floor is supposed to be!!! LOL!! Mike __________________ hardrock2

08-15-2003, 10:12 AM	#3
big blue 72 Senior Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: hamilton,ohio,usa Posts: 1,499	Hey Another Buckeye! Welcome to the best site on the planet. Lots of Good people here Welcome Charles. Big Blue 72

08-16-2003, 12:34 AM	#7
DMAN Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Benicia,Ca. Posts: 128	Rockers & floor panels are next on my list. Which board vendor sells the best quality replacement panels? __________________ '71 Custom Deluxe K10, shortbed, fleetside.

08-16-2003, 01:43 AM	#8
Hardrock2 A$$ deep into trucks Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Central Illinois,USA Posts: 249	When it comes to rockers, or any replacement panel, for that matter, try to get the ones that are at least the same guage or heavier than the originals. GMC Pauls is a good place to look. Most any vendor on this board is probably going to have the good stuff. They seldom steer a guy wrong! Mike __________________ hardrock2

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