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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Mora MN
Posts: 172
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Trac bar question... Help!
So, Santa, (a.k.a. my wife), bought me the CPP trac bar kit for Christmas. Found out it doesn't fit a C20. The trailing arm is 3" thick instead of 2 3/4". Before I send it back I have a few questions...
1- Do I send it back and leave my stock one even though I lowered the back 5"? 2- Do I cut it apart myself and re-weld it back together giving my the 3" I need? 3- Do I just cut the button piece of the bracket off so instead of being "U" shaped it would be "L" shaped? The axle U bolt would go through the top of the bracket instead of the top and bottom. I can't find the bracket for a C20. Any thought are appreciated!!! Merry Christmas!!!
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1968 Custom Camper C/20, rebuilt original 327 with 350 hp., turbo 400 with shift kit, factory AC truck, original patina rust free paint from Oregon, 2/4 lowering springs + 1" blocks, GM 2500 8 bolt rally's with dually center caps with Firestone Destination 245/75-R16's. (My 50th birthday present from my wife!!!) |
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#2 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: San Diego California
Posts: 1,316
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Re: Trac bar question... Help!
Your trailing arms are 3"? are they custom? that seems pretty big for a trailing arm. Do you have a picture of your current setup?
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I'd rather attempt something great and fail.. than try something ordinary and succeed. Norman Vincent Peale Project: Barn Raising http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=414961 Project: 30 Be Low https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=830583 |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Mora MN
Posts: 172
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Re: Trac bar question... Help!
Here's some pics. It is a Camper C20. Maybe they come reinforced.
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1968 Custom Camper C/20, rebuilt original 327 with 350 hp., turbo 400 with shift kit, factory AC truck, original patina rust free paint from Oregon, 2/4 lowering springs + 1" blocks, GM 2500 8 bolt rally's with dually center caps with Firestone Destination 245/75-R16's. (My 50th birthday present from my wife!!!) |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Mora MN
Posts: 172
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Re: Trac bar question... Help!
Another
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1968 Custom Camper C/20, rebuilt original 327 with 350 hp., turbo 400 with shift kit, factory AC truck, original patina rust free paint from Oregon, 2/4 lowering springs + 1" blocks, GM 2500 8 bolt rally's with dually center caps with Firestone Destination 245/75-R16's. (My 50th birthday present from my wife!!!) |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Mora MN
Posts: 172
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Re: Trac bar question... Help!
This is 2 3/4" inside.
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1968 Custom Camper C/20, rebuilt original 327 with 350 hp., turbo 400 with shift kit, factory AC truck, original patina rust free paint from Oregon, 2/4 lowering springs + 1" blocks, GM 2500 8 bolt rally's with dually center caps with Firestone Destination 245/75-R16's. (My 50th birthday present from my wife!!!) |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Green Valley Arizona
Posts: 1,351
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Re: Trac bar question... Help!
Send it back! There are others out there configured differently. Mine attaches to the bottom of the saddle....bought it from The Gearbox Garage. He's a member and seller on this forum.
http://www.thegearboxgarage.com/Contact-Us.html ![]()
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1970 C10 Short Stepper with 71/72 front clip. |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Glendale, Arizna
Posts: 1,642
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Re: Trac bar question... Help!
I'd cut the bottom off it, install it and bolt the cut-off portion to the bottom of the trailing arm then cut a patch of steel the appropriate size for the gap and tack weld it together. Then remove, finish weld, de-burr/paint/reinstall.
Or, send it back IF you can find one for a C20 that is reasonably priced. |
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#8 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: San Diego California
Posts: 1,316
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Re: Trac bar question... Help!
Ok, I get it now. I thought you were saying that you had CPP trailing arms also and they were 3" tubes.
Depending on how you are at fabricating will determine if this is a smart choice for you. If this is at all unfamiliar territory for you then the answer is send it back. But if you are an accomplished welder then the fab will not be to difficult. Remember if your welds suck then you will have a really bad day if it lets loose while you are driving. But also fabricating a new bracket will allow you to position the bar at the optimum geometry for your vehicle. Having the bar as flat as possible and just below center is best. reducing the arc the bar would make if mounted at an angle. ![]() ![]()
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I'd rather attempt something great and fail.. than try something ordinary and succeed. Norman Vincent Peale Project: Barn Raising http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=414961 Project: 30 Be Low https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=830583 |
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Mora MN
Posts: 172
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Ok, stupid question #2... Because I have 1" lowering blocks I could just cut the bottom off of it and put it between the rear perch and the 1" block and it would sit just like BugzC10's bracket. I'm not a suspension guru so would that work for proper angle and whatever else is needed???
Thanks for your patience!!!
__________________
1968 Custom Camper C/20, rebuilt original 327 with 350 hp., turbo 400 with shift kit, factory AC truck, original patina rust free paint from Oregon, 2/4 lowering springs + 1" blocks, GM 2500 8 bolt rally's with dually center caps with Firestone Destination 245/75-R16's. (My 50th birthday present from my wife!!!) |
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Mora MN
Posts: 172
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Re: Trac bar question... Help!
And is there a certain angle or degree the bar should be at? I am using the stock drivers side mount.
Merry Christmas and thanks everyone!!!! 😄
__________________
1968 Custom Camper C/20, rebuilt original 327 with 350 hp., turbo 400 with shift kit, factory AC truck, original patina rust free paint from Oregon, 2/4 lowering springs + 1" blocks, GM 2500 8 bolt rally's with dually center caps with Firestone Destination 245/75-R16's. (My 50th birthday present from my wife!!!) |
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#11 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: San Diego California
Posts: 1,316
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Re: Trac bar question... Help!
Looks to me that the bracket you have is designed to be connected top and bottom. If you just simply cut off the upper or lower portion of the bracket then there will be a tendency for flex in the bracket and possible metal fatigue failure in time.
The angle is to be as close to flat as possible so that when the suspension articulates it does not push the axle left or right as it travels up and down.
__________________
I'd rather attempt something great and fail.. than try something ordinary and succeed. Norman Vincent Peale Project: Barn Raising http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=414961 Project: 30 Be Low https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=830583 |
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Sturgis, Michigan
Posts: 509
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Re: Trac bar question... Help!
Glad to see that CPP was able to accommodate you. As far as the unit we have, the end plate also acts as a gusset to help eliminate flex. We didn't do the full 'C' channel design due to the many variations of stock and aftermarket designs and tried to make as universal as possible with a single design.
Thanks for the kind words BugzC10! -Mike |
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#13 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Kirkland, WA
Posts: 1,302
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Re: Trac bar question... Help!
For my C-20 I ended up chopping the bottom off and turning it into gussets for the sides, should be plenty strong. I didn't realize that CPP would make a custome bracket, that's cool! They still don't offer it as a real option or mention it on their site/catalog though. If your C-20 is like mine, the driver side mount is further forward than a C-10 mount... since my mount is already off I'm going to switch to a C-10 mount. It looks like CPP hadn't investigated the C-20 options at all while designing this. A heim on one end would facilitate both mount styles.
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1968 LWB C20 / AC / Wood Bed |
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