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#1 |
Quit if it's not FUN!!!
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Indian Trail, N.C,
Posts: 864
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Cam change.
I admit I'm old school and it's been a long time since I built any motors, so here goes. I have a 350/260 crate that cries out for more camshaft. Here's my question : Do you still have to drop the oil pan to get the timing cover off? That has always been a pain!
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MY MOTTO: Eat it all up, Wear it out, Use the last few drops, Spend all you've got, Late in life, you'll think of the things you didn't do, not the things you did. - Get out and experience life ! . Robbie Robinson a.k.a. TobyArnot (Toe Bee or not toe bee) ![]() |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Creighton Sask. Canada
Posts: 4,121
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Re: Cam change.
I don't drop it, just remove the 2 larger bolts from timing cover and at least 3 per side of the smaller ones and pry it down a bit, has always worked for me. Just a bit of a pain the get the front oil pan seal back in, takes patience but works.
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1987 Green n Green machine. 5.0 4spd std. 7" lift w 35's. |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Bowser
Posts: 13,600
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Re: Cam change.
I do the same but I cut the corners off (at a 45 degree angle)on the inside lip that holds the seal in place. That way the seal stays in the groove and the cover pops in place.
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#4 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Glendale, Arizna
Posts: 1,642
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Re: Cam change.
Quote:
If you are leaving the pan on (loosened as recommended), and if you can get some replacement dowel pins for the timing cover or some good roll pins, it's much easier to get the timing cover back on if you remove the dowel pins. Then you have to pry the cover downward and put the dowel pins back in (two man job). Of course you will need a timing cover gasket set that includes a new front pan rubber seal if your engine has been ran much and you will need a tube of silicone sealer. Have you already installed the engine or just purchased it? If you have not installed it yet, I'd pull the pan clear off and install a 1pc rubber/steel fel pro gasket and a 2 pc timing cover. http://www.competitionproducts.com/F...products/1216/ http://www.competitionproducts.com/2.../#.VLIg5k10wu4 Let me know if you use a 2 pc cover I'll tell you how to keep it from leaking (easy). I'm interested in what cam you are thinking of, and some details on the vehicle like is it C10, C20, or 4WD, rear end gear ratio, type of transmission, power brakes, headers/duals? http://www.competitionproducts.com/E.../#.VLIinU10wu4 http://www.competitionproducts.com/H.../#.VLIiM010wu4 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lu...make/chevrolet (my favorite) http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lu...make/chevrolet http://www.competitionproducts.com/E.../#.VLIixk10wu4 http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-DELPHI-L...662d12&vxp=mtr |
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#5 |
Quit if it's not FUN!!!
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Indian Trail, N.C,
Posts: 864
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Re: Cam change.
![]() Thanks for the comments.
__________________
MY MOTTO: Eat it all up, Wear it out, Use the last few drops, Spend all you've got, Late in life, you'll think of the things you didn't do, not the things you did. - Get out and experience life ! . Robbie Robinson a.k.a. TobyArnot (Toe Bee or not toe bee) ![]() |
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#6 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Glendale, Arizna
Posts: 1,642
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Re: Cam change.
Quote:
Check out this discussion: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/archiv.../t-174413.html 350-290 cam is a little too much for what is in reality a 7.8:1 compression engine plus it's not a split duration cam so it's far from ideal for your engine as it will not build cylinder pressure soon enough for that engine. Hard to understand why GM chose to use it for that without smaller chamber heads. Any cam that will give you any "bump" at idle is going to hurt the off-idle torque at 1500 and not improve the torque much if any at 2500. The cams I listed will all pretty much fill the bill, but for your gear ratio the elgin (the biggest one) I'd not use it unless you replace the head gaskets with thin steel shim, as the reviews on the Elgin cam say that on your exact engine it does take a little away from the bottom end. Actually, replacing the head gaskets would be a good idea regardless what cam you pick. While you are doing the cam, just remove the ex manifolds and then it's a matter of heads and head bolts. This will bump the compression about .4 plus it will give you some quench action that's good for response and mileage. 2 of these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fe...make/chevrolet 1 can spray copper-coat. An exhaust cross-over pipe will give you a noticeable low RPM boost, just enough you can feel the difference and even better with a good flowing enclosed fresh air intake system. For your set-up I'd go with this cam http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lu...make/chevrolet And these lifters, they are the very best for durability. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-DELPHI-L...mtr&rmvSB=true If you want a bumpy idle (bigger cam) and retain what torque you have now, you would need smaller chamber heads, like 87-91 Z-28/Formula Firebird, Vortec or some modified 305 heads from Aerohead. Stay away from "swirl port" heads. |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Creighton Sask. Canada
Posts: 4,121
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Re: Cam change.
I totally agree with Mechanicalman, the cam he picked is about the most you would want to go with especially with the highway gears you won't have great bottom end but great top end, the 200R4 will help some on the bottom end. The metal head gasket with copper spray is a good idea if you want to go that far, will help for sure. Not sure if you have a stall convertor or not, a 2,400 stall would make a world of difference with the poor gear ratio for take off and would help get the cam to work a bit better getting into it's bottom end range. Trucks are not light and need all they can to get them moving off the line.
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1987 Green n Green machine. 5.0 4spd std. 7" lift w 35's. |
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#8 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Glendale, Arizna
Posts: 1,642
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Re: Cam change.
Quote:
Yes and with the lockup converter on the 2004R you don't have to worry about the stall speed exceeding the cruise RPM as we know that will burn the trans up on highway cruise. Chug-a-lug! LOL as we pass the gas pump! With that trans I'd like to see him go like 3.42-3.55 gears as he could keep his 3 series carrier. ![]() Last edited by mechanicalman; 01-11-2015 at 04:21 PM. Reason: add-on |
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Creighton Sask. Canada
Posts: 4,121
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Re: Cam change.
Same gear ratio's I thought and as mentioned same carrier not cost effective too with only a gear set and crush sleeve needed plus some synthetic gear oil and would put the cam in the perfect spot even without the stall.
I always use roller rockers too for a bit better bottom end, friction sucks up power, even swapping to electric fans takes a bit more parisitic loss off the engine and a clutch fan sucks up about 18hp, less friction better bottom end and better fuel economy too.
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1987 Green n Green machine. 5.0 4spd std. 7" lift w 35's. |
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