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Old 03-04-2015, 04:56 PM   #1
MuenchT
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New Driveline in my 68 K10

I am hoping that you all may have some insight, guidance, or references that I can look at, as I begin to lay out the project.

I have a 68 K10 that I have had since I was in high school, and have driven on and off for the last 15 years (although it spends more time in the garage now). I am finally in a position to start upgrading/restoring it, and was interested in doing a swap to a more modern drive train, basically taking the driveline guts (engine, trans, t-case) from a 03 or newer 1500.

My question revolves around maintaining the solid front and rear axles, and being able to obtain the proper driveline geometry, etc. I know that I could keep the stock trans/T-case, and just install the engine, but I am looking to turn the truck into a daily driver (drive-ability and fuel mileage comes to mind) and its also not something that I have seen done.

My other option is to find another 68-72 body and do a chassis swap with a newer style truck, and sell the truck I have now. But it would be hard to let go of.

Any insights would be greatly appreciated. FYI this is all in the planning phase at this point, I am looking to set up for a winter project next year.
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Old 03-04-2015, 06:53 PM   #2
hugger6933
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Re: New Driveline in my 68 K10

First off welcome to the board. Second why 03 and newer does it have to be drive by wire? Yes you can get a trans to combo to go with the transfer case to have a more modern setup. Some said on here just the other day about Atlas having the very thing your talking about. The main thing as far as the LS motors go there is a swap section or go to the LS1.com and they have a swap section there as well. there are lots of guys that have done the swap and do have build threads they will chime in later to help you out I'm sure. I'm a two wheel drive guy so I'm not much good to ya. Jim
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Old 03-04-2015, 07:32 PM   #3
MuenchT
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Re: New Driveline in my 68 K10

Thanks for the welcome, I guess I should have done some more do diligence in looking through the site...As far as 03 and newer, there really isn't a reason why I am going that "new", I just picked a year. I will look into your reco's...at this point it is all speculative anyway, just want to "feel" out the project. Maybe a LM&4L60 to my rockwell will work...All in due time, just curious if of NP246 would line up/work.
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Old 03-04-2015, 07:39 PM   #4
57taskforce
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Re: New Driveline in my 68 K10

If you go to the newer style transfer case the front drop is on the wrong side, meaning you'll need to swap the front axle as well. Just food for thought. As far as the angles go I wouldn't think you'd have much trouble there. I'm honestly Not sure how much support there is for converting what I assume is the Rockwell transfer case you've got in your 68, to work with a late model trans. It's pretty easy and straightforward with an np 205 however.
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'72 K20 Cheyenne: 5” lift, 35’s, front dana 60 blah blah blah… http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=662879
‘69 K10 SWB: 4” lift 33”s… in a million pieces http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=805206
'98 Silverado LT K2500HD ECLB Vortec 454/4l80E: 6" lift 35x12.5x20’s
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Old 03-04-2015, 07:44 PM   #5
MuenchT
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Re: New Driveline in my 68 K10

Good to know that the T-Case drops on the wrong side. Thanks for the info on the NP, that is the direction it is looking like I'll have to go..
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Old 03-04-2015, 07:47 PM   #6
Nitis
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Re: New Driveline in my 68 K10

Biggest hurdle you have is the fact it is a 4x4. So if you do an LS swap you will need to change the front crossmember and add a suspension lift of at least 2".

I am opting to install tbi on a new crate 350 when I can save up the cash. It's not near as sexy as a newer engine but will do what I want.

if you do opt for your original plan no harm its just more project than I wanted all at one time. I would look to just adapt of the 4l60e to a 205 or something plenty of options out there. Also if you don't need the overdrive th400s will bolt right up and function fine or any gm trans less the 700 r4 which will bolt up but not as easy to make work
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Old 03-04-2015, 10:18 PM   #7
57taskforce
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Re: New Driveline in my 68 K10

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitis View Post
Biggest hurdle you have is the fact it is a 4x4. So if you do an LS swap you will need to change the front crossmember and add a suspension lift of at least 2".

I am opting to install tbi on a new crate 350 when I can save up the cash. It's not near as sexy as a newer engine but will do what I want.

if you do opt for your original plan no harm its just more project than I wanted all at one time. I would look to just adapt of the 4l60e to a 205 or something plenty of options out there. Also if you don't need the overdrive th400s will bolt right up and function fine or any gm trans less the 700 r4 which will bolt up but not as easy to make work
That's a good point about the cross member. I meant to mention that as well but it got lost somewhere between my brain and my fingers. You should be able to find an np205 with a crossmember relatively cheap with some searching.keep in mind there are differences between the manual trans 205,th350 205, & th400 205. It depends on which trans you want to run as to which 205 you need. For the 4l60e you'd want the th350 205. For the 4l80e you'd need the th400 205. The manual 205 can be converted to a th350 205 if that's all you can come across. And both can be converted to a th400 205 with some machine work to the case. All conversion parts can be had from off road design and others.
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'57 3100 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=813888
'72 K20 Cheyenne: 5” lift, 35’s, front dana 60 blah blah blah… http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=662879
‘69 K10 SWB: 4” lift 33”s… in a million pieces http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=805206
'98 Silverado LT K2500HD ECLB Vortec 454/4l80E: 6" lift 35x12.5x20’s
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Old 03-04-2015, 10:45 PM   #8
Nitis
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Re: New Driveline in my 68 K10

Quote:
Originally Posted by 57taskforce View Post
That's a good point about the cross member. I meant to mention that as well but it got lost somewhere between my brain and my fingers. You should be able to find an np205 with a crossmember relatively cheap with some searching.keep in mind there are differences between the manual trans 205,th350 205, & th400 205. It depends on which trans you want to run as to which 205 you need. For the 4l60e you'd want the th350 205. For the 4l80e you'd need the th400 205. The manual 205 can be converted to a th350 205 if that's all you can come across. And both can be converted to a th400 205 with some machine work to the case. All conversion parts can be had from off road design and others.
I'm referencing the engine crossmember as well as the clearance issues with the front punkin
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Old 03-04-2015, 11:47 PM   #9
57taskforce
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Re: New Driveline in my 68 K10

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Originally Posted by Nitis View Post
I'm referencing the engine crossmember as well as the clearance issues with the front punkin
Ya I know exactly what you mean. I should have been more specific in how i worded my post. I can see how you would presume I was referencing the transfer case crossmember but initially I was in fact referring to the engine crossmember. My bad
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'57 3100 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=813888
'72 K20 Cheyenne: 5” lift, 35’s, front dana 60 blah blah blah… http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=662879
‘69 K10 SWB: 4” lift 33”s… in a million pieces http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=805206
'98 Silverado LT K2500HD ECLB Vortec 454/4l80E: 6" lift 35x12.5x20’s
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Old 03-05-2015, 12:06 AM   #10
Nitis
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Re: New Driveline in my 68 K10

Ok just wanted to make sure the op was clear that would be a crappy surprise. Meant no disrespect.
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Old 03-06-2015, 10:46 AM   #11
johnw893
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Re: New Driveline in my 68 K10

If your only going for better,mileage I don't think it will be that worth it. With 69 With 350 that has rv cam and the rockwell 4" lift and heavy 36" tires I still get 10-15 mpg depending on what I'm doing that's not much lower than a modern truck that is lifted and as far as reliability I think the carbed older engines are more reliable than anything that has electronics there's a lot of things to go out on a modern engine
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