Brake Wheel Cylinders?

[The Swed]

Is it best to replace or rebuild the brake wheel cylinders? As you can see my cylinders are all leaking and this truck sat for 14 years so I'm not surprised they gave out, I should also replace or rebuild the master cylinder too? Yes my transmission is leaking as well.

Thanks to all for the help!

[steelhorse]

Now a days the price of a new one to a rebuild kit is about the same. Plus if it sat for that long then the bore may be pitted from rust.

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by steelhorse

now a days the price of a new one to a rebuild kit is about the same. Plus if it sat for that long then the bore may be pitted from rust.

x2

[GASoline71]

You can hone them out and rebuild them yourself if you must have the original cylinder. A repair kit will be about 10 bucks.

But I bought new ones from my local parts house for around 15 bucks each.

Gary

[The Swed]

Yeah new seems to be the way to go. I have a 3/4 so it's not as straight forward/easy to order the right parts as the 6 lug. I found this picture to help narrow it down but I would not be surprised to open it up and find I have the wrong parts if I get them from the local auto parts store.

[GASoline71]

Do you have an 12 bolt or an Eaton? Or a Dana Rear?

That might help determine the size of the front shoes as well.

Gary

[The Swed]

I can take a picture of the rear-end will that help? Here's a picture of the ID tags CE240Z128082 maybe some info there?

Thanks for all the help!

[snipescastle2]

Make sure the bleeder screws open before you purchase a rebuild kit, nothing more frustrating than having a bleeder screw break before you get to rebuild it....but, I agree on the cost point, it would only be a few dollars more to get the whole wheel cylinder, rockauto.com is pretty inexpensive......on the Master cylinder, I have seen so many rebuilds fail after a short time, better to buy a brand new one and be done with it....
Ben

[FirstOwner69]

Originally Posted by The Swed

I can take a picture of the rear-end will that help? Here's a picture of the ID tags CE240Z128082 maybe some info there?

Thanks for all the help!

That won't help with axle Identification. Here's a link to a current thread that shows a picture of an Eaton (aka corporate or GM) as well as other info.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=662372

I'd buy new cylinders. Rock Auto has a ton of them to choose from.

[The Swed]

Holy cow great point about the bleeder screws snipescastle2!

FirstOwner69 mine has leaf springs. I will take a picture of it tonight!

Thanks to all for the help!

[jocko]

buy new, the unknowns aren't worth the potential hassle. OReily or Autozone is just fine. Post a pic and we can tell you the rear end type, but not the ratio.

[Raider Rudy]

I've done both but now I just buy them. It really doesn't cost much more.

[GRX]

Buy new master & wheel cylinders. Be sure to flush out the fluid until it comes out clear at all four corners. Cloudy means water which will not compress properly, and can rust lines out from within. Been there, done that.

[The Swed]

Here's the pictures.

Thanks for the help!!

[Raider Rudy]

Sometimes the front ones are hard to remove. I had to rebuild some in place. BEWARE!

[GRX]

Check those hoses for swells & cracking. Then check again.

[dirtyjim]

its also good idea to replace all your brake lines while your at it. the majority of them have internal corrosion after 40+ years of service. your new wheel cylinders will only have a 3 month warranty because of this

[jjzepplin]

looks like a dana60 Congratulations!

[Molberg]

Run a wire brush around the tubing nuts as well. Spray some penetrating oil on. Quite often the metal tubing will be seized in the nut. Youll try turning the flare nut and the tubing might twist with it. Lol. So then you can try to unbolt wheel cylinder from backing plate and turn wheel cylinder, while holding seized tubing/nut from twisting. After you snap off the mounting bolts for the wheel cylinder of course. Hahah. I'd replace your master cylinder and replace wheel cylinders too. If you keep original metal lines.. I'd blow low pressure air through to see what comes out. (Carefully... Paint and brake fluid don't like eachother). My old brake fluid had turned to jelly. Amazing they worked at all.

[The Swed]

Thanks to all for the great info! Now I know the my rear brake shoes are the 11-5/32" and the I have a Dana 60 rear-end. I will replace the Wheel Cylinders, Master Brake Cylinder and maybe the brake lines too. I'm a big fan of stopping. My priorities are brakes and tires... Tire I have brakes not so much. I will update the post as find out what it looks like inside. Any recommendations? Like replacing the springs while its a part?

[GRX]

Yes. Get a drum hardware kit. Should include all the springs, pins and washers. $15 well spent. Self adjuster kit for the e-brakes is a good idea too. May as well while you are in there.

[edit] - do one side at a time. Use a digital camera to take a pic of one side so you have a reference when re-assembling the other.

[The Swed]

Thanks GRX! I remember drawing pictures prior to removing parts from a car in the shop/gas station I worked at back in 1975. Digital cameras makes it a snap now and doing one side at a time is a great idea so I have something to compare it with when it will not go back together! Lol

[snipescastle2]

Oh yeah, short shoe in front, Long shoe in back, otherwise your E Brake wont work!!!
Ben

[The Swed]

Thanks snipecastle2.

So where is the best place to buy brake parts?

[GRX]

Got my parts from NAPA locally. Numerous online sources. Bobschevytrucks.com ... Classicchevy.com ... etc etc ... You could even get them on Amazon.