Rear End Vibration

[apocalypse]

Hello All,
I've been having vibrations in the drive train of my 66 C10 Suburban. Did know if anyone my have some ideas as what to look for or if you've had similiar issue. I went through 3 carrier bearing last year.

History of the Sub and what's been done.
It's stock suspension (trailing arms)
stock stance
balanced driveshaft twice
billet carrier bearing
pinion angles checked and ok
3spd transmission
All new tires

Didn't know if I need to get a new driveshaft, rear end, or something else. Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Mark

[chevy_mike]

Are you 100% sure you don't have a bent wheel or an out of round tire issue (even if the tire balances okay, it can be out of round)?

Does it do it at a specific speed or RPM? When it happens, does it go away when you put it in neutral? Does it happen when on the gas or coasting?

[apocalypse]

Forgot to mention all new tires. The back tire also blew last summer. I've noticed it a little around 40 and definitely at 60. Every now and again, there's a bump or knock when taking off. I'll have to check on coasting, will do that if the rain lets up today when I get home.

I do have a Muncie 4sp that I'm planning on putting in, just wanted to get the vibration problem taken care of 1st.

[apocalypse]

It does do it, above 60 if I put it in neutral or push the clutch in. Once it get below 55 or so it stops or slows down enough where I can't feel it.

Would love to get this taken care of, so I can drive it this summer. My kids love riding in it.

[63burban]

New U joints?
Pinion bearing? Pinion bearings usually make noise also, howl or growl with power on.
Does the differential have oil in it?

[apocalypse]

It's not making any noise that I can hear, but then again my hearing sucks. Although my wife said she couldn't hear anything either.

I guess I could change the only U joint that hasn't been changed. It does have good fluid and is full in the differental.

The guy at the speed shop said it could be the pinion bearing going out. He also mentioned that the drums could be out of round. I'm trying to eliminate the cheaper things 1st before having the rear end rebuilt. I'm trying to find a 2 piece driveshaft to make sure it's not that.

The driveshaft shop wants to build me a 1 piece driveshaft, but that means cutting out some of my trailing arms, which I don't want to do.

[chevy_mike]

You say you went through 3 carrier bearings. My guess is carrier bearing and/or u-joints. The fact you are getting it neutral means it's related to driveshaft or rear end.

You might want to check out a very HD carrier bearing at, http://www.iedls.com/Center-Support-...kup-Trucks.asp

As for 1 piece driveshaft, there should not be any reason to cut anything on your trailing arms. My panel has a one piece driveshaft and the only thing that needed to be removed was the carrier bearing support.

[63burban]

Do the U joint, if you have a noise and clunk while changing gears, most likely the U joint.
Process of elimination is always fun !

[apocalypse]

I've put the IE210527XS carrier bearing in (attached pic). I'll replace the only U joint that i haven't. I would still like to get a 2 piece shaft to see if I could keep the original. If all else fails, I'll get the one piece shaft. One shop was wanting to cut out the entire area where the carrier bearing sits and the other was wanting to notch it. It sounds good that if I have to go 1 piece then I don't have to cut or notch.

Thanks guys for the advice and info.