My what is it, do I need it, what's supposed to go there, how do I fix it post.

[gordyzx9r]

So, I'm trying to take care of a few minor things with my new old 1970 C10 I picked up recently.

I'm finding a few odd things here and there that I'm not sure either:

What is it?
What's it do?
Do I need it?
What was supposed to go in that mounting bracket (that nothing is mounted to anymore)?

I'd really like to gut anything and everything I can related to emissions controls. I don't live in an area where I need it...and most of it is dry rotted, capped off, and lines just sitting there anyways not connected to anything.

Is there a really good fuse box diagram somewhere? I downloaded the Chevrolet Chassis Manual from this site, but that's not exactly crystal clear.

The fuel gauge is not working. I need to troubleshoot that. What resources are there here to do that? There is a wire running from the center of the top of the tank (which I assume is the sending unit) directly to the fuse box. Is it supposed to be? Just to see what would happen, I pulled the plug out of the fuse box and the gauge went past full. I put it back in, and the gauge goes to empty.

[gordyzx9r]

More.

[gordyzx9r]

Even more.

[gordyzx9r]

And some more.

[cdowns]

#9 rubber fuel line is a great way to burn it down to the ground

[gordyzx9r]

Originally Posted by cdowns

#9 rubber fuel line is a great way to burn it down to the ground

They say fuel lines on them, but there is a place near me that makes custom braided lines.

[67sss]

11 n 17 get rid of them, 14 blower motor power-hook it up. 8 fuel pump n tranny lines.3 valve covers, 4 flux capacitor-jk throw it away.

[gordyzx9r]

Originally Posted by 67sss

11 n 17 get rid of them...

Did you mean #7? Can I get rid of the canister by the battery and just put vent/filters from where those lines are coming from on the carb or motor?

[hugger6933]

Oh the two wires twisted together are from the hot and the NSS to bypass it probably

[sKnNyPpY]

Could #6 be a vacuum port for power brakes?

[yuccales]

Throttle linkage looks ok. You should have two "ball studs" that are screwed into the floor that the gas pedal snaps on to. Your braided ground strap could be slipped under a valve cover bolt. Good luck on your new project.

[D-rock1981]

1 is auto resetting circuit breaker. I don't think it's factory.

[Fitz]

That's a long list of sins left by hackers in that truck! I would start with the fuel lines as what you have is really dangerous. You can get pre bent hard lines from many sources or just buy straight stock, a bender and a flaring tool and make your own. When you are finished you won't have to worry about burning your truck to the ground.

[MagmaJct]

Originally Posted by gordyzx9r

So, I'm trying to take care of a few minor things with my new old 1970 C10 I picked up recently.

I'm finding a few odd things here and there that I'm not sure either:

What is it?
What's it do?
Do I need it?
What was supposed to go in that mounting bracket (that nothing is mounted to anymore)?

I'd really like to gut anything and everything I can related to emissions controls. I don't live in an area where I need it...and most of it is dry rotted, capped off, and lines just sitting there anyways not connected to anything.

Putting aside the law not requiring it in your area, what's you reasoning?

Regards,
Mike

[burb71]

The ground strap attaches to the rear valve cover nut on pass side

[gordyzx9r]

Originally Posted by yuccales

Throttle linkage looks ok. You should have two "ball studs" that are screwed into the floor that the gas pedal snaps on to. Your braided ground strap could be slipped under a valve cover bolt. Good luck on your new project.

Ah crap...they're not there.

Originally Posted by MagmaJct

Putting aside the law not requiring it in your area, what's you reasoning?

Regards,
Mike

From what I've seen, most of it has been neglected to begin with and if I don't need it why worry about keeping up with it?

[MARKDTN]

Canister purge is not evil. It is a passive system and would allow you to have a closed fuel system. That makes it so less fuel evaporates, less fuel smell, etc. I am a big proponent of converting to fuel injection and getting rid of as much as possible, but I always leave canister purge.

[Bigdav160]

1. Circuit breaker - Not original equipment. Someone added one to mine like that when they installed a electric brake controller

2. Vacuum ports. Best guess is the carb is not OE and those may not be used in your application

3. Back of cylinder head or valve cover

4. No idea. Perhaps an old alarm module harness

5. Pink is your ignition power.

6. Vacuum port for the transmission modulator

7 Evaporative canister purge line

8. Evaporative vapor line from gas tank and mechanical fuel pump

9 As mentioned, big cap HEI and rubber fuel hoses on the pressure side.

10 I'm pretty certain that is not correct. The brown wire needs to go to the instrument cluster.

11. No idea.

12. Needs the floor mounted gas pedal.

13. Looks to be the resistance wire that use to go to the points distributor.

14 Blower motor and it's connector

[gordyzx9r]

Originally Posted by Bigdav160

10 I'm pretty certain that is not correct. The brown wire needs to go to the instrument cluster.

Hmm...this wire goes directly from the middle of the top of the tank, directly to the fuse box. If I'm reading the wire schematic right, that's how it is there too.

[Bigdav160]

Originally Posted by gordyzx9r

Hmm...this wire goes directly from the middle of the top of the tank, directly to the fuse box. If I'm reading the wire schematic right, that's how it is there too.

I wrote my response from work. Guessing on many.

Looking at my truck and the schematic it's connected correctly. The male spade in the fuse box goes to the instrument cluster.

I thought the evap stuff didn't start until '72 model trucks.

[Custom/Ten]

#10, in response to the other question about what has power when. this is A test light, every parts store has them, they cost $5-10. Put the clip on a good ground (bare metal) and put the pointy end to whatever's you want to test for power, if it has power the lightbulb inside will light up. Buy this!

[Custom/Ten]

I just noticed some of your pics are talking about wires having 12V under certain conditions so I'm guessing that means you have a voltmeter or DMM and know how to use it. Test lights are still handy but not completely necessary if you have a voltmeter. I wouldn't of even posted that but you have a lot of pics and questions here and it's a little confusing. Might be easier to keep it all straight if you had broken all your questions into separate threads like the guy suggested earlier. Anyway good luck man, hope you get it all straightened out!

[57taskforce]

Correct me if I'm wrong but If that hole in the bed for the aux filler is on the drivers front side of the bed its most likely a 71-72 bed if it's at the rear of the drivers bed side it's a 70. That's assuming that the hole is factory of course.

[Custom/Ten]

#13 is the brake warning lamp wire. Here's a pic. mine is about 4ft. Long so I ran it up into and back out of this temporary wiring loom I have set up for now. My wire changes colors because part of it was exposed, part of it was taped, and part of it was painted which has been flaking off over the years so it has faded differently in different areas.

[gordyzx9r]

Originally Posted by Custom/Ten

#13 is the brake warning lamp wire. Here's a pic.Attachment 1413431 mine is about 4ft. Long so I ran it up into and back out of this temporary wiring loom I have set up for now. My wire changes colors because part of it was exposed, part of it was taped, and part of it was painted which has been flaking off over the years so it has faded differently in different areas.

Did you reposition your proportioning valve? Mine does not look like that. And I have absolutely no wire whatsoever coming out of it so they must have cut it off at some point. I'm used to seeing a plug that goes in those and not solid like this. Is there a special pin or plug that the wire gets crimped to and put in there?