55 2nd series Exhaust advice

[GMtrucknut!!]

I am getting ready to install my exhaust on my truck which has a CPP master cyl. with power brakes and an automatic transmission with an aftermarket cross member. I would like to see how others routed their exhaust system as it looks like a tight fit any pictures would be appreciated

[OrrieG]

2nd time today I have posted this pic. In addition to what you have, I have a transfer case and crossmember in place. I kept the stock trans crossmember too. tight but works, I am going to add header wrap to the exhaust pipe to lower the temp at the booster and MC.

[twinsemi]

Here is a shot of my recent change. When I put in the new MC, I replaced the previous conventional dual exhaust with a 2 into 1, 2-14" inlets and a 3" outlet. The 8" round Gibson muffler sits outboard of the frame rail and fits nicely away from everything else. It exits as a single 3" pipe just in front of the rear wheel. Sounds like a big block, even though its a mildly massaged 283. The Lava wrap keeps my starter, clutch and steering gear cooler. My biggest reason for this whole side pipe deal is that I have a 1 gallon fuel sump for my fuel injection on the other side, opposite the master cyl. Otherwise, I probably would have just wrapped the pipes or used heat shields to keep the heat where it belongs.

[twinsemi]

I must not have pushed all the right buttons.

[twinsemi]

And here is a shot from the side.

[Coupeguy2001]

I added a u bracket to my trans mount. I think I cut 8" section out of the mount. I centered everything up and welded it back together. When you lower the truck, your exhaust has to go somewhere. I made both pipes go through this cut out, and the left pipe went back to the left side back by the rear axle.

[Old Crow]

Hey Orrie, saw this pic both times you posted and had to ask. Did you have any trouble bleeding the brakes with those vertical vibration coils in the lines?

[1project2many]

Hey Orrie, saw this pic both times you posted and had to ask. Did you have any trouble bleeding the brakes with those vertical vibration coils in the lines?

People have all sorts of strange ideas about air bubbles getting trapped in brake lines. With 3/16" or 1/4" lines there's almost always enough volume in one stroke of the master cylinder to force bubbles out of the brake lines. IME when people have trouble bleeding brakes it usually turns out to be a caliper seal or wheel cylinder allowing air to enter the hydraulics when the pedal is released.

The only time I've had bona-fide trouble with air trapped in a line was in a Nissan 300ZX clutch system. Unknown to us, Nissan opted to connect a Tee in the clutch line and run a 3/8" diameter line from the LH firewall around the engine compartment to just behind the RH headlight. No amount of bleeding at the master or slave could have removed the air trapped in that deadhead line. Once we found the bleeder it took about two minutes to bring the system to proper operation.

[OrrieG]

Yes, after the pics were taken and I could not get good pedal I figured out that air was getting trapped in the top of the coil. I rotated them and got everything bleed out fine. I mention it in the build thread later on unfortunately you can't go back to boo-boos and edit them. I usually mention that but forgot this time, good catch.

[Old Crow]

I had that problem with a Mustang we built. Guy I had working on it about pulled his hair out trying to get a pedal. I hadn't really paid attention to the way he fabbed the brake lines and he'd done the vertical coils.
Once I had him change them, it took about 20 minutes to get it bled out.

1P2M, I'd always thought the same as you, but I saw in mentioned in a different brand forum. When the situation came up, I suggested re-doing the coils horizontally, and the brakes bled fine. <shrug?>

[1project2many]

1P2M, I'd always thought the same as you, but I saw in mentioned in a different brand forum. When the situation came up, I suggested re-doing the coils horizontally, and the brakes bled fine. <shrug?>

It's hard to argue with a situation that defies what you know. Hydrovac on medium duty trucks can be tough to bleed because the system is so large. Sometimes it takes a little creativity with them to force air out. But with cars and light trucks, esp. dual piston masters, whenever I've become involved in a vehicle where trapped air is suspected the actual problem has been traced to another component. Now that I've said this I'm fully prepared to get into a job that flat out proves me wrong. It's just one of the fun parts of fixing vehicles for a living. <sigh>

[Old Crow]

Ah, come on, you know we really do it for love, not for money.

[MyDream55]

Just posted this on another thread but this is my setup. Not the best pics but can get you some more clear pics if needed.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=673375