Any experience with POL disc conversion?

[clemsonteg]

I was looking at this kit https://www.performanceonline.com/19...it-5-or-6-Lug/

I am guessing that I would still need a master cylinder/prop valve to run disc/drum on my 70 C10 and I would need to run a new brake line from the prop valve to the crossmember for the front discs. Anything else?

[lolife99]

POL is no different than any other company that assembles all the parts you need into one kit. Usually the difference in price is related to the brand of parts or quality of parts.
(coated vs raw steel, etc.)
I have ordered from POL and had good results, even though their shipping costs seems excessive. (but spindles and rotors are heavy)
You should look at Summit Racing with their free shipping.
That could save you money.

To answer your question,... you will need to bend up the new brake line for the front brake "T" on the crossmember, and you will need a rear barke line modification or a new line to connect to your new prop valve.
I suggest 71-72 oem M/C and prop valve,... or good quality aftermarket versions.
I personally only use Aluminum master cylinders now.
(like Wilwood, Baer, etc)
The cast iron version will always rust and look bad no matter how well you prep and paint it.

Also check out www.earlyclassic.com for disc brake kits.

[clemsonteg]

Originally Posted by lolife99

POL is no different than any other company that assembles all the parts you need into one kit. Usually the difference in price is related to the brand of parts or quality of parts.
(coated vs raw steel, etc.)
I have ordered from POL and had good results, even though their shipping costs seems excessive. (but spindles and rotors are heavy)
You should look at Summit Racing with their free shipping.
That could save you money.

To answer your question,... you will need to bend up the new brake line for the front brake "T" on the crossmember, and you will need a rear barke line modification or a new line to connect to your new prop valve.
I suggest 71-72 oem M/C and prop valve,... or good quality aftermarket versions.
I personally only use Aluminum master cylinders now.
(like Wilwood, Baer, etc)
The cast iron version will always rust and look bad no matter how well you prep and paint it.

Also check out www.earlyclassic.com for disc brake kits.

Thanks for the info. Is the rear brake line modification because the factory line won't connect to the new prop valve?

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by clemsonteg

Thanks for the info. Is the rear brake line modification because the factory line won't connect to the new prop valve?

Yes.
It's usually bent wrong or too short.