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#1 |
Carolina Cajun
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Concord, NC/Ponchatoula, LA
Posts: 65
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The knob on one of the sliders broke. Am I going to have to replace the whole dash unit, cables and all? Are the individual sliders replaceable? Any fix solutions/suggestions are appreciated.
68 C10/L6 Daily Driver. Thanks in advance. Joe
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The Carolina Cajun, almost famous in North Carolina since 1989! Driving a 68 & Restoring a 66. Lookin' for Rochester Manual 1bbl & 2bbl carbs!! Concord, NC & Ponchatoula, LA |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Munster, IN
Posts: 1,100
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hmm - its been a few years since i had the controller apart, but i will give this one a go....
you shouldnt have to replace the whole heater control assembly. instead, you can just replace the single knob and the bracket(slider) it attaches to.. i dont have A/C, so i am speaking from a non-A/C controller perspective here.... first, remove the two screws that hold the whole heater control unit in the dash, and pull the control unit out away from the dash. this makes it easier to work on. (just a personal preference here). second, remove the adjuster cable off the post on the end of the busted bracket (slider). there should be a little round disc washer thing that holds the cable onto the bracket (slider). third, there should be a single vertical post that all of the brackets (sliders) pivot on. this post can be removed/pulled out. it is usually held in place by a pin or screw (cant remember which). remove the busted bracket (slider) once you get this pivot post out of the way. fourth, slide the new bracket (slider) and knob into place. you can dig one of these up pretty cheaply at the local salvage yard to match your truck (if you just follow these instructions to remove it as well). you will have to slide the bracket (slider) into the heater assemby from the front (because the knob is attached to the bracket). sixth, replace the center post. then replace the adjusting cable and little disc washer thingy. seventh, bolt the heater core control assy back into the dash. i hope this is helpful. if anyone has pics to assist my description, feel free to post them! good luck! ![]()
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68 C10 Red Step 350 my first child & main focus 58 3200 Apache LWB Step the upcoming project |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: St. James, MO
Posts: 1,239
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I can anever get the "little round disks" out without breaking them. Are they availalbe anywhere?
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'69 Longstep K-10: 327/SM465/T-221/Closed Knuckle Dana44/12-bolt. |
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#4 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: TN/VA
Posts: 6,388
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Hey Joe, Stop by at the show this weekend and see me I have what you need to fix it.
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#5 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Munster, IN
Posts: 1,100
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Quote:
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68 C10 Red Step 350 my first child & main focus 58 3200 Apache LWB Step the upcoming project |
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#6 |
I am a Referee of life.
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Greensboro N.C.
Posts: 13,993
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Buy the kit and save yourself the same problem later.The levers and such are cast pieces.The kit has ones made of steel.I spent around $20.00 and about 2 hours (I cleaned and painted it).While you have it apart lube the cables.
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The 47-present Chevrolet and GMC Truck Message Board Network,it's owners,moderators,members,and associates of any type should not be held responsible for my opinion. You can't fix stupid,not even with duct tape. "My appearance is due to the fact that "GOD" does punish you for having too much fun!" Barrett-Jackson has perfected alchemy,they make rust into gold! "You can lead a horse to water but you can't saddle a duck" "Cleverly disguised as a 'Responsible Adult' "Sometimes your Knight in shining armor is just a retard in tinfoil" |
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#7 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,284
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I have the kits, I can post the price on here later if anyone is interested (I'm not at work right now and I can't remember the price)
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#8 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: St. James, MO
Posts: 1,239
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Quote:
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__________________
'69 Longstep K-10: 327/SM465/T-221/Closed Knuckle Dana44/12-bolt. |
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#9 |
Carolina Cajun
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Concord, NC/Ponchatoula, LA
Posts: 65
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Thanks Guys & Dolls.
Jewels - I'm working with a no ac setup. One slider is temp, one slider is heater/defroster diverter, and othere slider is the fan off/on. The knob on the middle slider broke off. Tim, I'll be looking for ya on Saturday morning. Thanks again for all the info. Joe
__________________
The Carolina Cajun, almost famous in North Carolina since 1989! Driving a 68 & Restoring a 66. Lookin' for Rochester Manual 1bbl & 2bbl carbs!! Concord, NC & Ponchatoula, LA |
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#10 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Howard, Kansas USA
Posts: 1,997
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You guys know that jewels is awesome, right??
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1969 K10 Custom 10 1997 Z71 2006 Volkswagen Jetta TDI 2006 King Ranch 1980 Wife |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Muskegon,MI,USA
Posts: 6,026
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palallin,
If you use a small nose needle pliers, you can get under the clip, clamp on it and tip it, which will open up the tangs and then work it off. Otherwise, well stocked hardware stores carry them. Jim |
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#12 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Munster, IN
Posts: 1,100
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Quote:
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__________________
68 C10 Red Step 350 my first child & main focus 58 3200 Apache LWB Step the upcoming project |
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