72 Cheyenne Super

[geunther]

I drove a 72 back in high school so I always had a soft spot for them. Fast forward a few decades and I began looking for one to restore and.

Anyway here is the start: 72 Super Cheyenne short fleet side.

I have not decided the path for the project yet but it varies from leaving it bone stock to a mild drop, ls motor, overdrive blah blah blah. I also always wanted a blower poking out of the hood though being older now may prevent me going down that path.

[Z10]

Nice truck! Found of 72's also.

[geunther]

Prebuild
Before I tear into this thing I wanted to document everything. I went over it pretty good before I bought it but now that its home I can go over it in more detail.

Jam sticker indicates a Jan 1972 build date for the truck.

Looking over the engine it appears to be the original. Casting date of Dec 28, 1971. Build date of Jan 11 which is consistent with the casting date. Engine code is TDJ. The engine came from the St. Catharines plant in Ontario.

I had a hard time finding the casting date as it was not on the rear flange area near the transmission mount. Rather it was on the passenger side of the block between freeze plugs. This appears to be unique to St Catharines cases.

The next major driveline piece was the TH 350. It had a code of Y2A 20D indicating a Jan 20, 1972 date, again consistent with being the original transmission.

Because it was so easy I also checked the code on the alternator. it had a date code of Jan 19, 1972.

[geunther]

Rear End
Moving on the the 12 bolt rear end. I spent a little time looking for the build stamp but could not find it. Ill attempt again another day. However the cast date was easy to find and it was A102 indicating Jan 10, 1972.

So far all three major drive line pieces appear to be original, or at least consistent with being original.

[geunther]

Still documenting and deciding on what to do, restoration or just an over the top detail. The back window is dated January, 1972 so could be original. However it was in pretty poor shape with 43 years of water spots. It was even difficult to see through, especially at night.

It took awhile but I got it looking much better. Between 0000 steel wool, window polish and even metal polish I can finally see through it.

Admittedly I feel a little silly wanting to document everything such as the glass. Especially seeing the great builds on this site. Those builds make me want to tear into this but I sort of also like originality too.

The pictures show what I was dealing with. The spotting are even after I cleaned it the best I cold

[geunther]

I have been driving around the last few days without problems then yesterday the engine started sputtering. It progressively got worse and I was lucky to make it home. I don't know what the problem is but I thought I would check the fuel filter. It needed replaced so I set off to do that. The filter housing came out real tough and come to find out the filter housing is cross threaded. The carb is the original so I am hoping I don't have to throw it away. It clearly needed rebuilt anyway and you can see in one picture the sludge that was in the float bowl.

Sadly, I don't even know if the dirty carb was the original problem I was trying to fix regarding the sputtering. And now I have the cross threaded issue too.

[Tropical Snowstorm]

Wow, you're going to restore it? Looks like a great truck, whatever direction you go it's a great starting point!

[tommys72]

Nice truck there!

[geunther]

Thanks Tommy...and Semper Fi

[68Gold/white]

Any parts, questions you have about the carb, contact Cliff @ cliffshighperformance.com You need to email him, he can't take phone calls all day long. He is the Q-Jet answer man!!! Do NOT stick an e-carb on your engine!!!

[geunther]

Originally Posted by 68Gold/white

Any parts, questions you have about the carb, contact Cliff @ cliffshighperformance.com You need to email him, he can't take phone calls all day long. He is the Q-Jet answer man!!! Do NOT stick an e-carb on your engine!!!

Thanks! I already have an email into him, just not heard back yet. Im going to see if he can repair the threads and I will probably have it recolored at that time. I found a carb from a 77 GMC which is essentially the same but without the fast idle solenoid. I've bypassed the TSC so don't really need the solenoid anyway. I will reinstall it on the original carb though.

The fuel line and carb are temporary because my wife has to be able to move the truck while I am away for the next few months.

[geunther]

With the replacement carb installed I still had a hard time starting the truck. So thinking the problem was fuel or spark, I looked at the spark. I replaced the points and it immediately ran like a top. SO...after damaging my carb I found the problem and it was not even related. Frustrating.

The carb needed cleaned up and rebuilt anyway so I guess it was not all a waste.

[Z10]

Originally Posted by geunther

With the replacement carb installed I still had a hard time starting the truck. So thinking the problem was fuel or spark, I looked at the spark. I replaced the points and it immediately ran like a top. SO...after damaging my carb I found the problem and it was not even related. Frustrating.

The carb needed cleaned up and rebuilt anyway so I guess it was not all a waste.

Do yourself a favor and go purchase a pertronix module and replace those points. You'll never have to mess with them again.

http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor3/default.aspx

[69Tom]

Man, that truck is awesome looking just as it sits. I think those wheel covers are super underrated and are really cool. I'd just super detail it and enjoy it.

[Already Gone]

subscribed

[geunther]

I'm still having a hard time getting the truck to run. When it does run it is very rough. I rebuilt a spare carb, took it apart again just to make sure all was right. Replaced plugs and points. Seems to run decent at times, but only for a shot time, then back to rough. So rough that it frequently dies.

Having no idea what is causing the rough running I checked dwell and timing. Dwell was right on 30degrees with little fluctuation. Timing...well thats a different story. It bounces all over the place, sort of explaining the rough running.

To trouble shoot I removed the distributor 1112047. Date code is December 13, 1971 (1M13). Checking the end play it looks to be about .080. I am unsure if this is too much because I find conflicting specs online. If anyone knows, I would appreciate any input. I may post this question in the general forum as well.

I am hoping this is out of spec and would explain the jumping of the timing mark.

[green72s]

That's a really nice looking Cheyenne, and I like how you're documenting everything. I'm subscribed.

[geunther]

Thanks for the subscribes.
I had the seat out the other day. The sear is in remarkable shape and I was initially reluctant to believe it was original even though I was told that it was. The only flaws I can find are some breaks in the piping. I did find evidence that there was a seat cover installed such as strings tied to the underneath to hold on the seat cover. There is also a tag tied to the frame with numbers I don't know about yet. If anyone really knows how to decipher the tag please let me know.

The seatbelts are date coded either the 52nd week of 71 or the 2nd week of 72. All consistent with a Jan 72 build date for the truck. Also the tank has a date of September 22, 71.

[9teen69]

Awesome truck!

[geunther]

Back along the documentation trail: I have not been able to find much on Harrison radiators for Chevy trucks. There is some stuff out there for Yenko, Chevelles, Z28s etc but nothing much for trucks. Which tells me I am overthinking, once again.

I can't find anything on the JO radiator code, but the radiator appears to be as manufactured with the tanks matching the tag (driver side =IA) (passenger side = AT). Rad build date of November "L", which matches a truck assembly in January

[geunther]

Pulled wheels to see if I could authenticate them. They measure about 8.25" wide, which I do think would be correct. If someone knows please let me know. I was not a fan of the raised white letters but I was actually digging the look without hubcaps.

The shocks appear to be the original shocks. Build date 347th day of 1971. 45 year old shocks do not make for a good ride.

[Hart_Rod]

sweet ride

[Farm Shop]

Wow, this thing is amazing. I'm one of the last guys to push for stock/original anything (I LS'd a documented GTO Judge), but this is too cool exactly as is to mess with in my opinion. Looking forward to see what you do with it... there's no way it will be anything less than great.

[geunther]

Thanks guys for the nice words.

Originally Posted by Farm Shop

I LS'd a documented GTO Judge

Gutsy move, but I bet it was cool. Though I like originality, I absolutely appreciate nice custom work. Some of the custom trucks on here make it hard to stay stock for sure. With this one, I don't see how I can do anything other than keep it stock. Im working on another deal on a 67 to satisfy the custom itch.

I drove it around today and snapped some pics. its 50 / 50 at work whether to go with caps or no caps.

[Farm Shop]

Originally Posted by geunther

its 50 / 50 at work whether to go with caps or no caps.

Wheels are easy to change and make the biggest statement of any mod. I know it doesn't match the trim level of the truck, but a set of dog dish hub caps on those stock 8" wheels would fit the tough look of the truck really well. Or, for a period correct aftermarket look, a set of 15x8.5 slotted mags would be perfect!