Driver Power Door Lock/Window Switch Issue

[WhtWlf80120]

Thanks in advance for the help.


1998 K2500 Ext Cab 2 door Power Lock, Key fob Got as used:

1st) driver door jamb switch busted - (Fixed 9-1-15)

2nd) driver seat belt connector wire was cut - (Fixed 9-1-15)

3rd) right pivot ball joint bad -Scheduled for Labor day weekend

4th) right hub bearing going out -Scheduled for Labor day weekend

5th) No Inside Power lock switches working

6th) Lower radiator hose pin hole leak - (Fixed 9-1-15)

My biggest concern/issue is that the key fob and key is the only way to unlock and lock doors. Locks on switches do not work, manually unlocking and locking doors do not work.

Saturday found the drivers side black (Negative) wire from lock harness FRIED and MELTED. So I traced the wire back to were the broken connection was and replaced a good 12" section of wire. Worked fine, until I hit a bump in the road, now the windows do not work unless I wiggle the lock harness a little. The black Negative wire till gets pretty hot.

Could this possibly be that;
1) I need a new wire harness for the switch all together?
2) Need a new switch assembly?
3) need a new lock motor?

I have check all my connections in the doors and under the dash. Have replaced all my fuses and relays with new.

[87Skier]

Anything else inside the cab not working? To me it sounds like you have a short. I would find the source of the current going through that ground wire before going any further. Start by pulling fuses, specifically the power window and door lock as those seem to be having trouble. From what I saw in the manual the windows are run by circuit breaker which should automatically reset if there is a short.

[WhtWlf80120]

It was the window and lock switches not working. But have ran new ground wires to the window, lock and mirror switches on the driver side.

Got the mirror working like new, and now the windows switches work like they are supposed to. But still no lock switches. When I try to unlock the door manually by pulling the lock levers up, the locking mechanism locks them again.

Thinking about disconnecting the lock motors and just unlock manually.

[87Skier]

It could also be that something is constantly trying to lock the doors. Have you tried disconnecting the door lock switches one at a time to see if the problem is the door lock switch.

[WhtWlf80120]

remember the lock switches and door switches are in the same module.

Did disconnect lock solenoid and tested separate. Solenoid did pop and retract, switch shows current when pressing lock or unlock. But when connected no worky.

Also would like to program another key fob for a back up, but will not program like it should. Would like not to take to dealer.

[88lowrider]

I see this post is several years old but does anyone have the schematic on the switches to test them, Or jump around the switch to assure the door lock solenoid is working.

Mine is a 1988 GMC 1500 and I had left her sit too long.

I did see were the switch's for the windows and door locks were the same circuit design.
I would like to run a test ground wire from the cab and use the hot wire on the switch (which the one wire Is hot at the door lock switch)

This would tell me if my door solenoid is working and if so, bad ground.
Anyone ?