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09-14-2003, 02:23 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Charlottesville, VA
Posts: 404
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New Window Seals Leaking
When I bought my '67 all thewindow weatherstripping was old and virtually non-existant. As a result the interior of the doors had quite a bit of rust.
I stripped the interior of the doors out and POR15'ed the door interior. I cleaned off all the "innards" (door regulator, channels,vent division bar, etc) and painted all of then with spray on rusoleum. I rebuilt the vent rubber/division bar assy. Then I put in new weatherstripping. The new vent window rubber sticks out too far over the door skin on the bottom but it does seal out water. The "anti-rattle" seals on the side windows do not. The inner felt is fine, but the outer rubber seal is too small. It does not extend out over the metal skin so there is a small gap between the matal and the rubber that rain can penetrate. Also, the rubber going towards the glass does not extend all the way to the glass. With the window rolled up there is a gap between the rubber and the glass that allows rain in. I'm sur I installed everything correctly, the rubber seal is just not wide enough in either horivontal direction. Are all the rubber window seals made this way? I can't imagine so, but without physically seeing ones from all the various parts suppliers I don't know how to compare them. Anyone who can direct me here? Its pretty dissapointing to do all that work just to watch rain flow out my coated drain holes. Thanks.....
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"Truck" '67 small window '79 350 .030 over, LT1 "clone" |
09-14-2003, 02:41 PM | #2 |
GEARHEAD
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: MN
Posts: 6,126
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I wish I could help because I've got the same problem. When I look at my door window opening, it looks like it has spread apart a bit. Where the vent post goes through I can actually squeeze it together a good 1/8" or so and was wondering if I can find a way to weld a brace or something to hold it in tighter. I was thinking I may have to replace the doors otherwise.
Any help from the masses would be great. HG
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If no one knows what you're doing, they can't tell you you're doing it wrong HG's Dream Car Build - Shelby Cobra Kit Build your own adjustable track bar 71 Long Fleet C/10 72 Jimmy 4x4 (Junkyard Jimmy) HG's Plow Truck '78 K35 Dually Bigass Farm Truck HG's thread of miscellaneous stuff |
09-14-2003, 07:51 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: pell city,AL
Posts: 263
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I had the same problem with the Repop brand, I bought a set from Chritians classics and they were longer and had the chrome strip.
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09-14-2003, 09:16 PM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Charlottesville, VA
Posts: 404
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Chritians Classics?
Do you have a web site address for Chritians Clasics?
Lobo
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"Truck" '67 small window '79 350 .030 over, LT1 "clone" |
09-14-2003, 09:29 PM | #5 |
State of Confusion!
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Gulfport, MS USA
Posts: 47,083
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http://www.christiansclassics.com/
you can also PM him he is a board member (Tim Christian) and he is great to deal with.!
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Bill 1970 Chevy Custom/10 LWB Fleetside 2010 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner SR5 Double Cab - DD Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Bill's Gallery Life isn't tied with a bow, but it's still a gift. Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly. Leave the rest to God! |
09-15-2003, 11:18 AM | #6 |
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Charlottesville, VA
Posts: 404
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As Usual....
Thanks for the help and info. I will contact Tim Christian for more info.
Always good to bring up my problems with fixing the truck up "right" on here. Good info from folks who have "been there, done that".
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"Truck" '67 small window '79 350 .030 over, LT1 "clone" |
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