3" lowering blocks?

[CaptainAmerica]

I want to make a set of lowering blocks for the back of my '66 C10. I see people with 2" ones but I was thinking 3". Anyone ever do 3" blocks? Any reason not to?

Thanks- John

[ibrown50]

Hi John
It depends upon where your scrub line is, if you imagine letting all the air out of your tires so the truck is sitting on the rims then anything below this will hit the ground first.

Your scrub line on 15" rims is about 7 1/2" from the centre line of your axle, so if you add half the width of your axle tube which is 1 1/2", plus 2 3/4" of control arm, then 3" of lowering block and 1" of nuts and lower shock mount, (1 1/2 + 2 3/4 + 3" + 1" = 8 1/4) you'll be at 8 1/4", if you get a rear puncture your suspension will hit the road before your wheel rim and "jack" your truck. A bigger diameter wheel will increase this, so (for example) you'd have 10" to play with on 20" rim.

Cheers - Ian




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[CaptainAmerica]

I didn't think of that. I have 15's so better not go 3". Thanks for the help.

-John

[LVPhotos]

Porterbuilt has adjustable trailing arms with 1" or 3" built in. Helps push the rear back into center of wheel well. As an alternative.

[txinliner]

Originally Posted by CaptainAmerica

I want to make a set of lowering blocks for the back of my '66 C10. I see people with 2" ones but I was thinking 3". Anyone ever do 3" blocks? Any reason not to?

Thanks- John

I have 5 inch lowering springs and 1 1/2 blocks and still above the scrub if you have 100 bucks springs are the way to go