U-Joint Replacement

[East_Bound]

What's up guys -

It turns out 2 out of 3 of u-joints on my 64 c10 (Inline 6 250ci 3 on the tree - longbed) are in pretty bad shape so I am going to replace all 3 of them. On my truck there are two driveshafts. One from the transmission which goes to the center carrier bearing(also needs replacing) which then goes to another driveshaft to the differential.

Are all 3 of the u-joints typically the same size? I'm looking on Summit right now, and they have a bunch of different kinds - 1350 Style, Greasable, Steel; Super Strength, 1350 Style, Solid; Super Strength, 1310-CV Style, Greasable; etc. It makes it a bit confusing, maybe you guys can chime into what the differences are and what would be best suited for my truck?

As far as the center carrier bearing is concerned, I found two online, quite a price difference. Which would be better in your opinion? Thanks in advance!!

Center Carrier Bearings:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-72-Chev...5UutdG&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/58-64-CHEVY-...VWl~D3&vxp=mtr

[East_Bound]

My current Carrier Joint as it stands:

[East_Bound]

Rear U Joint:

[East_Bound]

Front U Joint:

[60chevyjim]

all 3 u joints should be the same .
looking at your center support you can see how well the cheap one lasts.
and napa sells it for $20 check napa for the u joints too.
the one for $75 is the best one made . I recommend it .
you wont have to keep replacing it like the cheap ones.
I have 2 of the $75 ones in use now with stick shift transmissions .
I would never use the $25 kind with a stick shift trans . they wont last very long at all .
i have built a lot of 58 to 64 chevy cars and trucks with the 2 piece drive shafts .
$75 is a good price with the free shipping , i payed more for mine .

[East_Bound]

That is very useful information, thank you. I've watched a few tutorials on youtube in replacing the carrier bearing. I see that it is possible to put into place with a hammer. Is this a decent way of doing it or would you recommend bringing the shafts to a shop and have them press it on?

Originally Posted by 60chevyjim

all 3 u joints should be the same .
looking at your center support you can see how well the cheap one lasts.
and napa sells it for $20 check napa for the u joints too.
the one for $75 is the best one made . I recommend it .
you wont have to keep replacing it like the cheap ones.
I have 2 of the $75 ones in use now with stick shift transmissions .
I would never use the $25 kind with a stick shift trans . they wont last very long at all .
i have built a lot of 58 to 64 chevy cars and trucks with the 2 piece drive shafts .
$75 is a good price with the free shipping , i payed more for mine .

[60chevyjim]

Originally Posted by East_Bound

That is very useful information, thank you. I've watched a few tutorials on youtube in replacing the carrier bearing. I see that it is possible to put into place with a hammer. Is this a decent way of doing it or would you recommend bringing the shafts to a shop and have them press it on?

I never had a shop do one for me yet .
you can do it at home .

[65chevysub]

I got all 3 of mine at Autozone. As far as the carrier bearing, I've seen a 1 piece machined one that looks similar to the original but is supposed to be much better and stronger but is about $100 or more. I just bolted the mounting bracket together with 4 small bolts washers and nuts when the spot welds broke over 20 years ago and it's still holding.

[East_Bound]

Impressive. I need the job completed before the weekend so I unfortunately had to buy a cheap carrier bearing from oreilly's because I don't have time to wait for the bearing to be shipped and no local parts stores carry it. I'll have to replace it again in the next few months.

Originally Posted by 65chevysub

I got all 3 of mine at Autozone. As far as the carrier bearing, I've seen a 1 piece machined one that looks similar to the original but is supposed to be much better and stronger but is about $100 or more. I just bolted the mounting bracket together with 4 small bolts washers and nuts when the spot welds broke over 20 years ago and it's still holding.

[East_Bound]

I have heard a lot of people having to take their carrier bearing to be pressed a shop so it was scaring me away from doing it, so thanks for the confidence booster! I will start assembling everything tomorrow after work.

Originally Posted by 60chevyjim

I never had a shop do one for me yet .
you can do it at home .

[East_Bound]

Oh and really important question. Do I need a puller to remove the carrier bearing or is there another method?

Originally Posted by 60chevyjim

I never had a shop do one for me yet .
you can do it at home .

[East_Bound]

Also to anyone else who reads this:

I have been reading a lot of other posts on the forum and something that comes up quite often is having a balanced driveshaft/making your marks on the driveshaft. I did mark the driveshaft, but with a black sharpie on a black driveshaft..should be fine, or maybe not (well see tomorrow). Worse comes to worse, is it important to balance the driveshafts (3 speed, two piece driveshaft). Would you recommend me taking the completed driveshaft to a mechanic?

Originally Posted by East_Bound

Oh and really important question. Do I need a puller to remove the carrier bearing or is there another method?

[61K10]

your u-joints should be the 1310 ones, the 1350 was used on the front d/s at the trans. 4sp sm420 and i think the heavy duty 3sp. ck out rockauto.com. go to their catalog,click on chey, year1964 c10 230eng. they have pictures of just about everything and the specs. you don't have to buy from them, but a good reference to ck parts.

[East_Bound]

Great, I did just that. I have taken off the driveshaft as well as all of the u joints. As far as I can tell (they are well covered in clumps of oil) they all look the same. Thanks!

Originally Posted by 61K10

your u-joints should be the 1310 ones, the 1350 was used on the front d/s at the trans. 4sp sm420 and i think the heavy duty 3sp. ck out rockauto.com. go to their catalog,click on chey, year1964 c10 230eng. they have pictures of just about everything and the specs. you don't have to buy from them, but a good reference to ck parts.

[jtrichard]

Dont worry about balance just make sure that the slip joint - ujoint lines up with the one one that end of the shaft

[jdl71]

The only ends you need to mark are where the two halves meet. Those have to go back together the same way after you replace the carrier. I had our Napa store do my carrier. I bought the u joints and carrier there and the labor was minimal. He also checked balance and while it was in the lathe he hit it with emery cloth to knock all the nasty scaly rust off. I'm thinking it was like $25 total.