Could a bad ignition switch cause this problem?

[66clow]

I'm using this video as a sample of what my truck is doing. I've tried to shim the starter but it still gets hung up on the fly wheel or just spins. Starter is new on a chevy 350. You can jump ahead to the 2:45 time on the video. I've had to do the rush to battery dance as well.
Thanks
https://youtu.be/hXjYF5otyXk

[old Chevy guy]

I won't say it can't be the switch but I doubt it. More likely the starter or the solinoid is junk. More likely the solinoid. Just because it's new doesn't mean it can't be bad. If it's new from the store exchange it and see what happens. that what I would put my money on.

[A1971Blazer]

the only way that the switch could cause it.........if it's sticking in the start position or is shorted in the connector....I've seen them with melted connectors

[A1971Blazer]

Originally Posted by A1971Blazer

the only way that the switch could cause it.........if it's sticking in the start position or is shorted in the connector....I've seen them with melted connectors

Hmmm..........anything is possible on these old trucks.....

[JDL]

that is the starter Bendix slipping

[geezer#99]

Do you have the correct knurled shoulder bolts and a starter brace?
What ignition?
Is it points or hei?

[66clow]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Do you have the correct knurled shoulder bolts and a starter brace?
What ignition?
Is it points or hei?

It just has the new bolts with the starter. Not sure if hei. Here are photos of the engine. No brace. Bought truck with from po. Tuck was just converted from long short. Truck was just put back together and I know the po fooled with the timing a bunch of times trying to start it, turned out to be a bad carb. I bought a carb to get it running. But this was after many attempts of hearing the starter spin and getting hung up. So that is why I'm thinking the new starter got jacked up or the switch went bad from the numerous attempts.

[In The Ten Ring]

Originally Posted by 66clow

It just has the new bolts with the starter. Not sure if hei. Here are photos of the engine. No brace. Bought truck with from po. Tuck was just converted from long short. Truck was just put back together and I know the po fooled with the timing a bunch of times trying to start it, turned out to be a bad carb. I bought a carb to get it running. But this was after many attempts of hearing the starter spin and getting hung up. So that is why I'm thinking the new starter got jacked up or the switch went bad from the numerous attempts.

You do plan to redo your fuel lines there before the carb right? I'm not sure if I'd want a plastic fuel filter and hoses resting right on the engine.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by In The Ten Ring

You do plan to redo your fuel lines there before the carb right? I'm not sure if I'd want a plastic fuel filter and hoses resting right on the engine.

Exactly. I did the same thing once and rec'd a lecture from a mechanic. Hard-line only, and if you choose an auxiliary filter it best be steel raised off the engine. I just use the filter at the carb. It's cleaner and works as intended.

[66clow]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Exactly. I did the same thing once and rec'd a lecture from a mechanic. Hard-line only, and if you choose an auxiliary filter it best be steel raised off the engine. I just use the filter at the carb. It's cleaner and works as intended.

Yes, thanks it is on the works. Did it to get it running but not road ready.

[davepl]

Starter/solenoid or flexplate or the mating of the two.

Did you have the engine out? Is it possible you put the flexplate on backwards? That'd be your worst case. I've seen it before.

[66clow]

Originally Posted by davepl

Starter/solenoid or flexplate or the mating of the two.

Did you have the engine out? Is it possible you put the flexplate on backwards? That'd be your worst case. I've seen it before.

That's something to think about. Would it still start our line up? Im going to check to see if the spacing is correct between the starter and flywheel. The po did the swap. But it was definitely out.

[VetteVet]

Disconnect the purple wire from your starter and the yellow wire if you still have it on the starter.
connect a starter jumper between the large cable on the solenoid and the small S wire terminal.
Disable the ignition coil or distributor so it can't start the engine.

Now press the jumper button on the starter jumper and engage the starter.

This eliminates the problems from everything but the starter and the solenoid.
Timing,. poor conductivity on the S wire, bad ignition switch, etc.

If you still get the problems then your starter solenoid is weak or shimmed incorrectly.

Refer to my thread.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=655903

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Seems these guys are on the right track. Did you shim the starter? If you ask me, it needs to be closer. If it grinds then it's too close. My guess is it's the solenoid, but I would remove a shim first.

On a side note, if that were my Corvette there would be a lot more padding on those fenders.

[66clow]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Seems these guys are on the right track. Did you shim the starter? If you ask me, it needs to be closer. If it grinds then it's too close. My guess is it's the solenoid, but I would remove a shim first.

On a side note, if that were my Corvette there would be a lot more padding on those fenders.

Also I did take the starter to autozone to test it. It operated fine with no load on it but I'm still thinking it could be bad once you put the load on it. I tried a few shims but still had problems. I didn't try shimming just one side to get it closer or further away.

[Dimebagdavesc30]

I had a 77 chevy c1500 with a 350 I bought with the starter and flywheel that wouldn't mesh right, made an awful sound when starting, but started. I was getting the lifetime starter and flywheels from a chain store, three starters and flywheels later all with in a year, I just kept taking them back. So I took the final new in the box lifetime starter to my favorite salvage yard and told the guy, I would trade him even up for an old starter off a junk truck. Once installed I never had a problem again. The lifetime starters I could never get to work without the awful chirping noise......and eating flywheels.......

[67 chevelle]

The correct spacing between the starter gear and flexplate is when an end of a paperclip wire will fit between the gears when they are engaged

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by 67 chevelle

The correct spacing between the starter gear and flexplate is when an end of a paperclip wire will fit between the gears when they are engaged

I'm fairly green though I've replaced a few starters. How do you know when they're engaged without starting the ignition?

[66clow]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

I'm fairly green though I've replaced a few starters. How do you know when they're engaged without starting the ignition?

Mine was actually getting stuck on the fly wheel. You either look underneath at the starter or the starter continues to run after the vehicle starts and you will likely see smoke boiling out from your battery cable.our possibly some other wiring. Not a good situation you have to make a mad dash to disconnect the battery before the vehicle goes up in smoke. Not something you want to experience.

[67 chevelle]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

I'm fairly green though I've replaced a few starters. How do you know when they're engaged without starting the ignition?

You have to take off the gravel plate and get under the truck with a screwdriver and engage it

[VetteVet]

Glad you figured it out and thanks for the feedback.

[old Chevy guy]

Defiantly didn't see that being it. Would have bet the farm on bad solinoid or bendix. Like 71Chevyshortbed402 said thanks for the update. I hate when you follow a thread to see what really happened and you never find out. It's like when your favorite show ends the season in a cliffhanger and the show gets cancelled before the next season.