Started engine swap tonight

[Mattchu60]

Been working on a rebuilt 350 for my 1987 V10 since Mid-Winter, its been together on the stand for a couple months but I have been using my truck for work for the past month and didn't want it out of commission. The TBI 350 has 175,000 miles and is pretty tired, uses quite a bit of oil.

Tonight I started the process of unbolting everything - go the converter unbolted, throttle body and sensors removed, coolant drained and a few other random things tonight, tomorrow I am going to get the engine out.

Going to take a few days and clean up the engine bay before dropping the new engine in. Also trying to think of anything I should be replacing while I have the engine out. I have a new Delco steering box and also a new PS pump to put on. If anyone has some ideas on other things to look at replacing let me know.

Going to keep the TBI system, I waffled on the decision of going to a carb but wanted to keep things like my cruise control and lockup converter for the 700r4 - decided instead to get the EBL Flash Tuning system, been playing with it for a month or so, hoping I can handle the tuning part of things. Its setup to run electric fans as well if I decide to put them in.

Hoping all goes well, never done this before so its a learning experience.

[Nick_R_23]

Transmission pump seal is always a good idea. Steering parts as you mentioned are always much easier to access. Engine and trans mounts are a good idea to check too.

[Dead Parrot]

Might think about pulling the transmission out with the motor. That way you can drop it off at a shop for new seals all around and a good check over.

If you have any thoughts about upgrading to a higher amp alternator, swapping out the output wire is much easier when you can stand in the engine compartment. Check all of the wires while you are at it.

[Mattchu60]

Spent most of the day working on the engine removal and then on cleaning up parts afterwards. I have a few questions below that I am hoping someone can help with.

Picture of lifting it out:



Question - This wasnt what I expected when i saw the balancer for the first time - I expected the crankshaft to be all the way through the balancer, but it looks like its only halfway on? Maybe this is normal - if anyone could let me know if this looks right that would be great.



Another question - I found the passenger side exhaust manifold is cracked pretty bad. Considering putting headers on the truck now, I'd like to get some quality ones that fit well- maybe spend $300-400 on a set - any suggestions on what would work well would be great - also not sure how the A/C bracket would mount with headers - looks like there would be issues with that.

Also I put polyurthane motor mounts in place of the worn out rubber ones, the new ones have a lot of play where the bolts go through - figured it would be a tighter fit - anyone else use these - this normal?

Lastly I'll post a picture of the new engine that will be going in.

[Nick_R_23]

Originally Posted by Mattchu60

Question - This wasnt what I expected when i saw the balancer for the first time - I expected the crankshaft to be all the way through the balancer, but it looks like its only halfway on? Maybe this is normal - if anyone could let me know if this looks right that would be great.

This is normal. The balancer snout rests up against the timing gear internally.

Another question - I found the passenger side exhaust manifold is cracked pretty bad. Considering putting headers on the truck now, I'd like to get some quality ones that fit well- maybe spend $300-400 on a set - any suggestions on what would work well would be great - also not sure how the A/C bracket would mount with headers - looks like there would be issues with that.

"Quality" and "$300-400 a set" are two different things when it comes to headers. Pick one. The entry level Hooker/Hedmann/Pacesetter/etc headers available off the shelf at parts store are cheap and low quality, but they'll usually fit decent and get you back on the road. Places like JBA, Kooks, Stainlessworks, and Hooker Blackheart are good quality stainless headers, but certainly aren't cheap.

Also I put polyurthane motor mounts in place of the worn out rubber ones, the new ones have a lot of play where the bolts go through - figured it would be a tighter fit - anyone else use these - this normal?

The stock engine mounts usually have slotted holes to help with installing the bolts when the engine is going in. Tolerances are loose on these older trucks and things sometimes don't line up perfectly, so the slots help with lining things back up again.

Hope this helps

[Mattchu60]

Thanks for the reply. I spent most of yesterday working on cleaning up the accessory brackets on the engine and repainting them, along with painting the motor mount brackets, switched the pulley on the PS Pump to the new pump I bought, removed the steering box from the truck for swapping out for a rebuilt box - one of the bolts on that are not fun to get to with all the brake lines in the same spot. I also scrubbed the frame down and primed/painted it where I could reach.

[MTCK]

Good looking truck. Reminds me of my 83 k10 long bed I had in high school. What's the specs on the motor you built?