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06-22-2016, 05:26 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Silverdale, WA
Posts: 6
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Built for towing
So my current hand me down tow vehicle (97 F250 powerstroke) is starting to show it's age. I don't really care for the truck but it was the right price.
I really don't want to throw any $$$ into a truck I don't like. I have a 71 C10 that I will never get rid of. I would rather build it up for the purpose of towing then buy a new tow rig. I really can't see spending $50K for a truck, when I'd rather drive the 71. I'm only pulling a small camper trailer that's less then 5000lbs and a few motorcycles in the bed. The truck is all original and needs Motor/Transmission refresh, inner and outer rockers, paint job, and replacement wood for bed. (yeah I know wishful thinking right) Who knows how deep the rabbit hole goes.... So here is the question.... What would you do to improve towing capability/safety? Would you replace motor? Say LS? I don't have the skill or time to do it myself.... but I think I could sell the wife on fixing up the old girl if it's less then a new one. Say $25K.?. I'm not in a hurry as I still have the Ford. Any recommendations/ideas? |
06-22-2016, 09:18 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: st cloud mn
Posts: 163
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Re: Built for towing
The truck is more than capable of pulling that kind of load.
What engine and transmission is currently in the truck. How fast do you want to try and pull the load What condition is the front end and rear suspension in I would look into installing a brake controller for the trailer And a class 3 hitch |
06-22-2016, 11:03 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 560
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Re: Built for towing
I have a 1972 that started as a c20. I added a 5.3L engine, nv4500 gearbox, dually rear-end, larger brakes all around of a 1989 C3500 and supersprings. The truck drives great and handled close 10k (this consisted of the weight of the tandem trailer and a 1998 C3500 4x4 with a dump bed). Currently the master cylinder (new) is the weakest link. I plan on adding a hydroboost system soon. I think the C10 came with a smalled chassis but I could be wrong. If you plan on pulling 5k you should be fine. I also have a new on-board air compressor and rear airbags that I will be installing soon as the supersprings barely was able to have the weight. Oh, I also added a steel flatbed with a 1,000 lift gate, and 19.5 wheels/tires... it's an addiction.
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06-23-2016, 06:44 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Mt Airy, MD
Posts: 85,858
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Re: Built for towing
I didn't do anything but have a truck in good condition and towed loads like that just fine. These were built to work before there were used for cruise-ins. Does it have coil rear springs? Put a pair of Air Lifts into the coils for a true 1,500# gain in capacity that is fully adjustable. I just run lines out to schraeders in the bumper or tag mount. a stock engine does just fine, but if engine is fairly fresh an RV cam will help get going easier. LS engines are great, but this whole "have to have" attitude is downright annoying. Go that route if you want to get that far into it.
ow about transmission? What's in it now? If it's an automatic get the biggest radiator, trans temp gauge, and a 25,000# auxiliary cooler. Excess is good in the cooling department. Tires are important, too. LT tires are what you need, not P-series. Get the brakes up to OEM specs and go have a good time
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06-23-2016, 02:42 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Silverdale, WA
Posts: 6
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Re: Built for towing
All great information.
Thought I threw this info in already. It's a 350 motor with an automatic trans. (turbo 350 I think) New, Heavy half coil over springs. Hidden hitch. I would like to cruise down the highway, so maybe some kind of overdrive. The frontend is loose so defiantly need to overhaul that. Not looking to slam it with an air ride, as I spend lots of time on mountain roads and fields, but do like the idea of air ride. Already have trailer controller installed... Rear-end is 3:73 limited slip.. Drum brakes... No sway bars |
06-23-2016, 02:54 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Auburn
Posts: 78
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Re: Built for towing
Have been down this road myself.
Best thing I did, by far, was a rebuilt steering box from https://www.redheadsteeringgears.com/. That box along with new pitman/idler arms, tie-rods, and ball joints, (and a-arm bushings if necessary) made the truck steer as good as new. New shocks. There are some load-assist shocks available if you don't want to go down Air-Lift route. My truck used these for 10+ years while hauling a slide-in camper. Freshen the brake system including the master and wheel cylinders, calipers, and associated drum hardware. I prefer to change the calipers (or rebuild them) because they accumulate gunk behind that piston. |
06-23-2016, 08:02 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 7,723
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Re: Built for towing
The air bags he is talking about don't change the ride height of the truck, they increase the load carrying ability by keeping the back end from sagging. This keeps weight on the front for handling/braking.
Sounds like you have a pretty good setup for what you want to do. Truck tires are mandatory IMO. (LT rating NOT P rating.) Transmission cooler, oversize radiator, brake pads/shoes designed for towing. You're good to go.
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06-23-2016, 11:11 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: winnipeg
Posts: 1,107
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Re: Built for towing
I'll just say this people were towing a lot more than 5000lbs long before the LS engine ever come about. Your combo is good running order should be fine. Worry about stopping it with good condition brakes and trailer brakes.
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