gm crate engine question

[El Dorado Jim]

I am going to buy a crate engine for my 72 K20 soon, the 350, 250 hp one from summit is $1600.00 vs. the 290 hp for $2350, what do you all think???, I'm leaning towards the $1600.00 one

[El Dorado Jim]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-Goodwrenc...-/400764245043 just found this for under $1400.00,what do you all think?

[saxart]

Originally Posted by El Dorado Jim

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-Goodwrenc...-/400764245043 just found this for under $1400.00,what do you all think?

Here's the same one for a few bucks cheaper yet:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVROLET-10...BYj2pm&vxp=mtr

I'm seriously considering putting this in my own truck. Isn't it similar to what they came with?

[saxart]

Originally Posted by saxart

Here's the same one for a few bucks cheaper yet:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVROLET-10...BYj2pm&vxp=mtr

I'm seriously considering putting this in my own truck. Isn't it similar to what they came with?

I called 6 semi local dealerships today about this very engine for my 1970. I wanted to know if a local dealer could do even better than the dealership on eBay. Some of these dealers I called were in a "metro" area, while other's were out in the burbs. I got answers all the way from "oh, you can't get an engine for that truck anymore, we only go back to 1989" to "Yes, we can get that engine. It will be $2650 plus a $100 core charge". It was quite comical to hear the guy, who had just told me he can't get an engine for my truck, back pedal when I gave him that part number and asked for a price.

Anyway, the bottom line is that I don't think we're going to find prices better than this.

Can someone confirm, is this pretty much the same spec engine that was in these trucks when new?

[El Dorado Jim]

Originally Posted by saxart

Here's the same one for a few bucks cheaper yet:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVROLET-10...BYj2pm&vxp=mtr

I'm seriously considering putting this in my own truck. Isn't it similar to what they came with?

thanks, that is an awesome price

[El Dorado Jim]

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/n...FQW1wAod_-UBWQ this is the same engine as on ebay, but says it is 250 hp...???

[scooterpimp]

Go to your local chevy dealer , check on a goodwrench engine. You may be suprised at the price.

[robs71]

Originally Posted by scooterpimp

Go to your local chevy dealer , check on a goodwrench engine. You may be suprised at the price.

I have done this in the past..For me I work out of town a lot and I was able to pick up at the local chevy dealer at my convenience after it arrived.The base replacement lower horsepower 195 h.p. 350 is plenty...these run very nice and you can't beat the price..These goodwrench engines carry the gm warranty no matter who you buy from but if you would have an issue in the warranty period it might be less hassle dealing with the chevy dealer.Little things to think about...

[67ChevyRedneck]

I don't have time to look for the threads, but the general consensus I recall reading was that the cam/head combo left A LOT to be desired on the 290 horse motor and they weren't worth the extra money.

I have the lower HP one on my stand right now. I bought it over 3 years ago when Jegs had them on sale for $1,208.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=606983

Also, the 250 and 290 numbers are "max" with 4 barrel carb, hei, headers, etc. As mention above the "stock" motor is more around 195 HP with a 2bbl carb and stock components.

[LockDoc]

-
I have used two of the Goodwrench engines and have been very happy with them. I have also read that the 290HP isn't worth the extra money. I put one in my '72 Dually a while back and just used it to pull the 20 foot car trailer with my Grandsons '99 Camaro on it, 150 miles one way. The Dually had no problem cruising at 55-60 loaded (that's the fastest I run with a loaded trailer) and 65-70 empty. Great engine.

LockDoc

[Coley]

To my recollection, the 290hp engine is not recommended for towing or heavier vehicles (ie: trucks).
It is cammed and built for something lighter that would need to get the revs up before you see power. As a result when guys dropped them in 4000lb trucks (like ours) many were pretty disappointed.
Unfortunately a lot of buyers still only look for the hp number when selecting a motor whereas the torque and the rpm it comes in at, at least for trucks, is the better number for most performance in my books.
Whether most people know it, admit it....or not, the lower rpm range is where you will be doing 90% of your driving so having your power/torque down there, rather than it appearing suddenly at 4500-5000rpm....will probably be what you want but only you know your driving habits.
If you want the best of both worlds, get the 195/250hp version, run it for 6 months to make sure it is a good motor with no warranty issues. Then, put a correct cam in it and perhaps upgrade the heads a little bit and you will have a tight motor with more torque and hp....and more importantly, where you need it. Talk to cam experts before you choose the cam tho'.
The fact that the warranty will be null and void ...shouldn't be too much to worry about....certainly not when you can pick these up for very little money.
My two bits.
Coley

[TwoFiftyShifter]

Here is a great option, if you don't have overdrive. It's the same Goodwrench engine but with a nice mild cam in.it. It probably likes a 2400-2800 cruise rpm as opposed to the stock 350 liking more of a 1600-2200.

http://paceperformance.com/i-6237688...no-intake.html

[rmneder]

My brother has the 195/250 hp engine in his 70 blazer. Four barrel carb, headers, and hei. It runs really nice and feels like it has plenty of get up.

[RDrancher]

Originally Posted by TwoFiftyShifter

Here is a great option, if you don't have overdrive. It's the same Goodwrench engine but with a nice mild cam in.it. It probably likes a 2400-2800 cruise rpm as opposed to the stock 350 liking more of a 1600-2200.

http://paceperformance.com/i-6237688...no-intake.html

This /\ /\. You get the excellent Summit 1103 cam already installed with a warranty for $350 more than the base 350/260 from Pace and over $500 less than the 350/290 from Jegs. That's a more than great deal.

[68shortwide]

I remember a GM crate motor coming into my dad's work for the symptoms above, basically just falling on it's face and not performing well at all. I can't remember if it's the 290hp or 330hp, or hell it could be both. But the screw up was indeed the cam, just not matched well at all for the heads.

[davepl]

From everything I've read in the past, the 250hp engine is a well-tuned combination, and then the 290hp is a "too big of a cam for that motor" version of it. So most people tend to prefer the 250hp of it.

Never owned either, but it's come up a number of times in the past.

[geezer#99]

I don't know why people keep wasting their time on those crates!
No compression, crap heads, little cam, no power!
For a bit more money you can get one of these roller blocks.
Compression, roller cam and vortec heads.
Sure you need a fuel pump and different flywheel or flexplate but you should replace those anyway.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Perf...30282/10002/-1

[RDrancher]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

I don't know why people keep wasting their time on those crates!
No compression, crap heads, little cam, no power!
For a bit more money you can get one of these roller blocks.
Compression, roller cam and vortec heads.
Sure you need a fuel pump and different flywheel or flexplate but you should replace those anyway.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Perf...30282/10002/-1

That's a great deal, although I would get the 4 bolt version. But don't forget, in addition to the $200+ initial price, the fuel pump, flex plate/flywheel, you'll need to buy an intake too. A lot of folks already have a nice aluminum intake. If you want to upgrade the cam, that'll cost double or so compared to a non-roller. Not to mention if you want to get a cam with decent lift, you'll need to have the heads machined or run a set of these https://www.alexsparts.com/valve-spr...erf-hyd-roller.

I'm not actually arguing with you as much as detailing that it's all a matter of how much you want to spend (or can spend.) When the time comes I don't know which one I'll choose, the Pace 300 or an L31 with an upgraded cam.

[truckster]

Originally Posted by RDrancher

That's a great deal, although I would get the 4 bolt version. But don't forget, in addition to the $200+ initial price, the fuel pump, flex plate/flywheel, you'll need to buy an intake too. A lot of folks already have a nice aluminum intake. If you want to upgrade the cam, that'll cost double or so compared to a non-roller. Not to mention if you want to get a cam with decent lift, you'll need to have the heads machined or run a set of these https://www.alexsparts.com/valve-spr...erf-hyd-roller.

I'm not actually arguing with you as much as detailing that it's all a matter of how much you want to spend (or can spend.) When the time comes I don't know which one I'll choose, the Pace 300 or an L31 with an upgraded cam.

No disrespect intended, but for a street engine 4 bolt vs. 2 bolt is not going to make any difference. The cam in the stock Vortec is also perfectly adequate to make 300 HP with a good 4 barrel and decent exhaust. And the Vortec is going to last a very long time in stock form.

[garyd1961]

Originally Posted by truckster

No disrespect intended, but for a street engine 4 bolt vs. 2 bolt is not going to make any difference. The cam in the stock Vortec is also perfectly adequate to make 300 HP with a good 4 barrel and decent exhaust. And the Vortec is going to last a very long time in stock form.

Exactly, I don't understand why people think you need to change the cam in these motors. I just got out of my 1970 C10 with the L31-R 4 bolt version with the factory cam and I'm still grinning. I have a Holley four barrel with long tube headers and MSD ignition. This motor will flat out run, I have a hard time getting started with my open rear but from a rolling start it always puts a grin on my face.
I don't try to destroy my truck but I built it to have fun and I do have a lot of fun.

[Rod Run]

Originally Posted by RDrancher

That's a great deal, although I would get the 4 bolt version. But don't forget, in addition to the $200+ initial price, the fuel pump, flex plate/flywheel, you'll need to buy an intake too. A lot of folks already have a nice aluminum intake. If you want to upgrade the cam, that'll cost double or so compared to a non-roller. Not to mention if you want to get a cam with decent lift, you'll need to have the heads machined or run a set of these https://www.alexsparts.com/valve-spr...erf-hyd-roller.

Originally Posted by truckster

No disrespect intended, but for a street engine 4 bolt vs. 2 bolt is not going to make any difference. The cam in the stock Vortec is also perfectly adequate to make 300 HP with a good 4 barrel and decent exhaust. And the Vortec is going to last a very long time in stock form.

I completely agree with you truckster. The first thing I found interesting about RDrancher's post was his mention about going with the 4 bolt block. There is absolutely no reason to spend extra money for a 4 bolt main on an engine with such low horsepower. Stepping up to a 4 bolt would only be worth it (and marginally), if you were putting high HP and running high RPM's regularly.

[RDrancher]

Originally Posted by Rod Run

I completely agree with you truckster. The first thing I found interesting about RDrancher's post was his mention about going with the 4 bolt block. There is absolutely no reason to spend extra money for a 4 bolt main on an engine with such low horsepower. Stepping up to a 4 bolt would only be worth it (and marginally), if you were putting high HP and running high RPM's regularly.

I'm amazed that you guys get so uppity over paying $9 more for a 4 bolt over a 2 bolt.

2 Bolt...https://www.summitracing.com/parts/n...0282/overview/

4 Bolt...https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12530283

[James the III]

Originally Posted by Rod Run

I completely agree with you truckster. The first thing I found interesting about RDrancher's post was his mention about going with the 4 bolt block. There is absolutely no reason to spend extra money for a 4 bolt main on an engine with such low horsepower. Stepping up to a 4 bolt would only be worth it (and marginally), if you were putting high HP and running high RPM's regularly.

If that was even remotely true.. g.m. would've never built a 4 bolt vortec for the 3/4 ton and up trucks..
They all be 2 bolts..
No way they spend the machining cost and extra parts.. if not needed.. bean counters would see to it.

[James the III]

Originally Posted by RDrancher

That's a great deal, although I would get the 4 bolt version. But don't forget, in addition to the $200+ initial price, the fuel pump, flex plate/flywheel, you'll need to buy an intake too. A lot of folks already have a nice aluminum intake. If you want to upgrade the cam, that'll cost double or so compared to a non-roller. Not to mention if you want to get a cam with decent lift, you'll need to have the heads machined or run a set of these https://www.alexsparts.com/valve-spr...erf-hyd-roller.

I'm not actually arguing with you as much as detailing that it's all a matter of how much you want to spend (or can spend.) When the time comes I don't know which one I'll choose, the Pace 300 or an L31 with an upgraded cam.

The 4 bolt is 100.00 more..
the flexplate is 60 bucks.. and I'd not put a used flexplate on a new engine with a worn starter gear..
as for changing the cam.. you get 300+ h/p as is...
more than enough.. if they are looking at a 260hp 350 with smog heads.
intake is 200-250..


What does it cost to rebuild the new crate engine if you wipe a lobe?? off that flat tappet??

[saxart]

Originally Posted by James the III

What does it cost to rebuild the new crate engine if you wipe a lobe?? off that flat tappet??

Is this a trick question? The answer is nothing. It's under warranty.