HELP! Can't get brake drums off!

[Chevyguy111786]

I bought a "new" rear-end. It's a 3/4 ton axle from a 1967. At least i think it's from a 67. It's an odd axle tho. It's got 4:56 gears and it's a 10 bolt. I need to get the drums off to redo the brakes. It's set up for dually wheels. Has anyone worked with an axle like that? The drums aren't movin. I need to get this under my truck cuz my sister needs my daily driver. Thanks in advance.

[lukecp]

You need to back off the adjusters...there should be a little slot in the face of the brake drum. Position the slot so that it is at the lowest point possible (if the axle was in the truck), stick a screwdriver in through the hole, and you should feel a little wheel in there. Move the wheel with the screwdriver, and it will back off the brake shoe adjsutment and allow you to yank off the drum.

[67Fleetsidedream]

I think you have to pull nut and the hub bearings out in order to remove the drum. I could be wrong. And I think you have what is called a full floating axle.

[Chevyguy111786]

THANKS! I'm gonna go try this. any one else, go ahead, i'm up for ideas.

[truckster]

Sounds like you have the Eaton full floater. Is the rear cover almost perfectly round? If it is, it's the Eaton. You have to remove the hubs to remove the drums. Remove the bolts on the end of the axle hub to get the axle out. Have a drain pan handy.

[ckhd]

Yeah, what truckster said. You will have to pull the axles, and take apart the hub. The drum is integrated into the hub.

[Fred T]

Don't get too carried away. First, are there two slot head screws in the face of the drum? If so, you can remove the drum without pulling the axle IF you can get the screws out. It usually takes an impact driver with a big bit that fills the screw head.

If you can't get the screws out, or if there aren't any, then pull the axle. Should be 8 bolts holding it in. After the axle is out, there is a big round nut inside, with a keeper on it that has to be bent back. There are special sockets to turn the nut, I usually use a hammer and narrow screwdriver. After the first nut is out, the keeper pulls out, and there is a second nut to remove, and the drum and hub will come off.

When replacing the hub, you will need to pack the bearings with grease. Doesn't have to be a real good job, because the gear lube will take over for it. You also need to replace the oil seals, and use care putting the hub back on so you don't cut the lips on the seal.

[Chevyguy111786]

THANX FOR ALL THE INFO! I'll try these tomorrow afternoon. I think it prolly is the Eaton. Is this a good axle?

[Longhorn Man]

Never heard of putting grease on a bearing that is also lubed with oil.

[71GMC_3/4T]

I greased mine when I did the brakes and seals. I don't remember if someone on here told me to do it, or if I read it somewhere. You have to use a certain type of grease though, but I can't remember which. Ask here, someone will know for sure.

You can buy new nut retainer parts at an auto parts store if yours are trashed like mine were. Be sure to take the old ones to compare - they have several that look the same.

Also, when backing off the adjusters to get the shoes away from the drum, I've always had to use a second screwdriver to push the self adjuster away from the clicker wheel. Otherwise, you could wreck the adjuster mechanism.

If you pull the hubs, I'd suggest buying new seals and installing them. Once again, take an old one with you just to be sure. One of my seals had gone out and contaminated the shoes. The rear brake would stick when it was cold.

[Fred T]

Originally posted by Longhorn Man
Never heard of putting grease on a bearing that is also lubed with oil.

It makes sure they're lubed until the oil can take over. Manual for my 52 says to do it. I don't pack them as good as the fronts.

[Longhorn Man]

While your manual says that, I can see peopel doing it...but does that mean you have to pack them with grease if it has sat for a week or so and the bearings are dry?
Still makes no sence to me.

It makes sure they're lubed until the oil can take over

[Chevyguy111786]

well guys,
i got the drums off....but i still can't get them turned cuz the hubs are connected. any one know how to get these off?
Thanks for everything, this is the best place ever.

[71GMC_3/4T]

Do they have the big flat head screws? If they do, PB Blast the threads from the inside and use an impact screwdriver with a big bit to remove them.

If you don't have the screws, you'll probably have to find a shop that has the equipment to turn them intact.

When I did mine, the guy said they were going to be waaay over size and he wouldn't do them. I asked him to just humor me and turn them mostly smooth and leave the deep grooves. I also told him I didn't want any receipt or anything that could be traced to him if they failed. He finally agreed to do it. They'll probably last a long time since I usually stomp on the gas pedal harder and more often than the brake!

[71GMC_3/4T]

I think mine was an eaton. Does yours look like this?:

[Stocker]

Not sure what that diff is but I don't think it's an Eaton. I may be wrong - mine looks like this one http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ighlight=eaton and I believe that's an Eaton. 'Course, they coulda had different styles...

[bugs4121]

Chevy guy it sounds like you do indeed have an Eaton rear end and I just finished doing a complete brake overhaul on the rear of my truck..... and to remove the drums from the hubs you have to press the wheel studs out with either a arbor press or a hydraulic press also I have also read that you can sometimes hammer them out if you can find a brass drift but I ended up using a arbor press at work .....good luck

[71GMC_3/4T]

Maybe it was the Dana 70, or something like that?
After seeing your Eaton, I'm pretty sure it isn't one of those!