Bought an all original truck with one problem

[Nhaydt92]

Hey guys bought an all original truck numbers matching 65. Only problem is I bought it from the second owner yesterday because he recently sent a rod through the block. Said it was knocking and he was driving it to the body shop to have it painted and have the engine rebuilt. Now that it's blown he has no interest. I'm looking to put a period correct engine back in it. Does anyone know where I can find a 230 l6 that's good for a rebuild? I'm located in PA. Any help would be appreciated. Want to do a factory restore everything is there and works perfect. Just needs the rust and engine fixed.
Posted via Mobile Device

[chevylookin]

This guy is in your area. Keep hitting up CL in your area. Those engines are out there. Just a little hunting and patience and one will turn up. Maybe try for a 292?
https://delaware.craigslist.org/pts/6115266956.html

[Nhaydt92]

Originally Posted by chevylookin

This guy is in your area. Keep hitting up CL in your area. Those engines are out there. Just a little hunting and patience and one will turn up. Maybe try for a 292?
https://delaware.craigslist.org/pts/6115266956.html

Awesome I didn't know if I was gonna be screwed or not. I figured I was just gonna have to ask the right ppl and one will turn up.
Posted via Mobile Device

[factorystock]

'65 Chevy trucks have no permanent markings to what engine was originally installed. Your free to put in a 230 292 283 or 327 ( in some cases). However, it must be year matching. The block code and date code of the engine must be from 1965 in your case. There may be a lot of these engines out there, but finding a 1965 issue will be the most difficult part of the search.

[Nhaydt92]

Originally Posted by factorystock

'65 Chevy trucks have no permanent markings to what engine was originally installed. Your free to put in a 230 292 283 or 327 ( in some cases). However, it must be year matching. The block code and date code of the engine must be from 1965 in your case. There may be a lot of these engines out there, but finding a 1965 issue will be the most difficult part of the search.

So the vin number isn't actually on the block? Or are you just saying to make it period correct? That would be awesome if I could find a 65. I found a 69. Is there much difference?
Posted via Mobile Device

[chevylookin]

If you want to make it as period correct as possible, a 69 6 cyl engine would be a 250 ci displacement engine and was not around until '66 but it looks just like a 230. No difference at all on the outside. But what factorystock is sayin is that you can put any period motor in these trucks as it was not coded into the vehicles VIN as to what engine the truck came with. You would only find that info on the truck's build sheet and 99% of those were tossed many years ago with 60-66 trucks. They started sticking them on the inside of the glove compartments of these trucks in 67 I believe. So you can put a 230, 250, 283 or 327 from built in 65 and say "yes, that is the original engine to the truck" and no one could doubt you.

[padresag]

Originally Posted by Nhaydt92

So the vin number isn't actually on the block? Or are you just saying to make it period correct? That would be awesome if I could find a 65. I found a 69. Is there much difference?
Posted via Mobile Device

there should be a casting # on the back of the blockon the top rear left just where the bellhousing bolts on. there should also be a number stamped into the boss where the distr. drops into. these numbers will identify your eng. these numbers may cover several years productions. find those numbers and post them back here and someone should help you decipher them.
ron

[Nhaydt92]

Originally Posted by factorystock

'65 Chevy trucks have no permanent markings to what engine was originally installed. Your free to put in a 230 292 283 or 327 ( in some cases). However, it must be year matching. The block code and date code of the engine must be from 1965 in your case. There may be a lot of these engines out there, but finding a 1965 issue will be the most difficult part of the search.

I found a 64 292. Does everything bolt up from the 230 to 292? I'd like to use as many factory parts off my motor as possible.
Posted via Mobile Device

[oem4me]

Originally Posted by Nhaydt92

I found a 64 292. Does everything bolt up from the 230 to 292? I'd like to use as many factory parts off my motor as possible.
Posted via Mobile Device

Complete sixes turn up for sale fairly often, and for cheap. More often 230's and 250's, but 292's as well. If you are patient, chances are you may find a motor needing nothing that's ready to drop in and go, and if you are lucky maybe even the right year.

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by Nhaydt92

I found a 64 292. Does everything bolt up from the 230 to 292? I'd like to use as many factory parts off my motor as possible.
Posted via Mobile Device

Don't let the difference in motor mounts scare you off. You can find/buy the correct flywheel and 292 mounts and then have a "bolt-in", as I understand. And man! The increased power and esp. torque would be well worth a bit of extra effort. And none of them are gonna get 20mpg anyway!!!!
s

[Chevy Fleetside]

You would need one for a 1965 If you wanted to put it back to period correct. If you don't care about that and really want to drive it then the 69 will be fine. Heck I have an 89 454 in my truck.
My other truck has the stock tired 283 in it.

[shp4man]

The motor mounts are different on a 292. My truck was originally a 230, but now has a 250. That is a bolt in, and they made it multi-years, although the older ones are better than the newer ones.

[Nhaydt92]

Originally Posted by shp4man

The motor mounts are different on a 292. My truck was originally a 230, but now has a 250. That is a bolt in, and they made it multi-years, although the older ones are better than the newer ones.

So which would I be better with a 69 250 or a 64 292? These are the only ones I can find...
Posted via Mobile Device

[shp4man]

Originally Posted by Nhaydt92

So which would I be better with a 69 250 or a 64 292? These are the only ones I can find...
Posted via Mobile Device

Easier? The 250. More torque? 292. I would buy the engine that is in the best condition.
I don't think the motor mount thing is a big deal, but the 292 has a different head and block, so some of the parts from the 230 won't fit.

[vince1]

At some point the 250 changed to have an integral head and intake manifold. I believe that wasn't until the seventies though. One mechanic told me they got unbelievable fuel economy. For period correct you would want to avoid that one.

Agreed, get the engine that is in the best condition so you don't have to spend a lot of money on it. Sometimes people take out perfectly good engines to put in V-8's. Back in the eighties a painter in a body shop did that with a slant six which he threw out. I took a compression test and it had 165 right across with cross hatch marks still showing in the cylinders. Kijiji netted me a quick sale of $200 on that one.

[Nhaydt92]

Originally Posted by vince1

At some point the 250 changed to have an integral head and intake manifold. I believe that wasn't until the seventies though. One mechanic told me they got unbelievable fuel economy. For period correct you would want to avoid that one.

Agreed, get the engine that is in the best condition so you don't have to spend a lot of money on it. Sometimes people take out perfectly good engines to put in V-8's. Back in the eighties a painter in a body shop did that with a slant six which he threw out. I took a compression test and it had 165 right across with cross hatch marks still showing in the cylinders. Kijiji netted me a quick sale of $200 on that one.

You think a wanted post in the classifieds would turn a good 230 up? Maybe ppl are still doing it lol
Posted via Mobile Device

[GMDad]

The flywheel is different on a 292 as well but intake, exhaust manifolds and distributor all interchange. The 1969 250 motor would be a good choice for you will fit right in and you can use the valve cover and air cleaner off your 230 to make it look original.

[nail pounder]

Keep checking Craigslist, I sold a solid 235 w/3 spd trans w/brand new clutch for $750 when I did my motor swap. Just some food for thought, are you going to be happy w/ a top speed of 55- 60mph? I wasn't. Nothing wrong with a period correct truck, I certainly can appreciate it, but I'm not sure it's adding any value. Think about what you plan to do with this truck, just putt around town on the weekends, home Depot runs etc. OR like me do you plan on driving the wheels off it? Freeways, work, soccer practice, pick up kids from school etc. My 66 has a 350/5spd, my 58 has 350/700r4 and they go anywhere, 80mph no problem. I drive the 66 as my daily driver while I plug away on the 58 build. I'm just saying, if you need to replace the motor, make sure it's what YOU really want for your needs.

[nail pounder]

Oh, and whatever you decide I would recommend running a compression test on any used motor before purchasing. A lot of guys like me doing motor swaps will post ads on Craigslist so you can come see the motor in the vehicle before it's pulled. Good luck and hope you get miles of smiles out of your new to you truck!

[nail pounder]

http://remanufactured.com/Chevrolet_...er_Engines.htm

Try this?

[bpmcgee]

I'm glad you're deciding to stick with a straight six. I love the small-block sound, but stovebolts have such a unique pattern too!

B