Which should I grind?

[TheBrewery]

I'm in the middle of the disc brake conversion and just replaced the upper and lower ball joints got the spindle in tighten down the castle nuts and I can't turn the steering wheel...



So the question is do I grind down the spindle or the upper A arm?

[Ryan893]

If you only need to take like an 1/8th inch then id start by grinding the a arm a little, that rolled steel is pretty tough. But are you sure you have the right parts here? Its just weird that its touching

[TheBrewery]

Originally Posted by Ryan893

If you only need to take like an 1/8th inch then id start by grinding the a arm a little, that rolled steel is pretty tough. But are you sure you have the right parts here? Its just weird that its touching

So I talked to a tech at POL, he said that because the suspension is at full droop that it will contact and it shouldn't with weight on it... I don't get it, every other car I have worked on you want everything to move for the full range of the suspension travel, if I sink one of the front tires in a pot hole I don't think my steering should lock up... Am I wrong?

[81turbota]

I'd grind the spindle. I wouldn't want to compromise the tubular A arms. Tubes are very strong until you introduce a stress riser such as a kink, dent, deep scratch or thin spot. The cast iron spindle wouldn't be compromised if you removed some material from that location.

Correction - that's a factory stamped A arm. I'd still grind the spindle. The rolled portion of the A arm contributes to its rigidity.

You're not wrong. The suspension and steering should not bind and fully articulate through its range of travel.

[TheBrewery]

Originally Posted by 81turbota

I'd grind the spindle. I wouldn't want to compromise the tubular A arms. Tubes are very strong until you introduce a stress riser such as a kink, dent, deep scratch or thin spot. The cast iron spindle wouldn't be compromised if you removed some material from that location.

Correction - that's a factory stamped A arm. I'd still grind the spindle. The rolled portion of the A arm contributes to its rigidity.

You're not wrong. The suspension and steering should not bind and fully articulate through its range of travel.

Thanks!

That's what I thought, that A arm was designed to be as minimal as possible and still be strong, I don't want to start taking out material. I will grind the spindle a little and see if that gets me there.

[SCOTI]

I would take a little off of each.

[HO455]

Originally Posted by TheBrewery

Thanks!

That's what I thought, that A arm was designed to be as minimal as possible and still be strong, I don't want to start taking out material. I will grind the spindle a little and see if that gets me there.

That is in fact the case but what spindles are you using. Over the decades the definition of as minimal as possible has changed. The stock GM ones had a large over design factor in them for safety. Todays factory spindles have much smaller safety margins as the manufacturing processes are way more sophisticated and there is less need for the "make it bigger and it will never fail" mentality.
If they are factory spindles I wouldn't hesitate to remove the material that is causing your problem. If they are aftermarket then I would return them as they may have been mis- machined.

[54Caddy]

If mounting hole was further in towards frame it would have an effect on camber. Also I’ve had a few sets of spindles rub like that when suspension isn’t loaded. Never grinded anything and never had issues.

[PGSigns]

Are the shocks on it? They will not let it get but so far down.
Jimmy

[TheBrewery]

Originally Posted by PGSigns

Are the shocks on it? They will not let it get but so far down.
Jimmy

Yeah The shocks are still attached, I ground the passenger side spindle down so now it clears the upper, I just need to do the drivers.