Lowering Ignorance

[Notes]

So many ways - so much confusion. ’72 C10. Rides & drives great. 1” lowering blocks on rear. It sets level. I’d like to lower it 3” front & back. Can it be as simple as 3” lowering springs and new shocks all around, or is it more complicated than that? Thanks in advance.

[71cheyennesuperlongb]

If you If you do 2 1/2 drop spindles your geometry willbe better. I think someone sells 3 inch spindles also. You will not have to run shorter drop schocks which will have less stroke for more suspension travel.

[Anti_Hero0932]

I'm wondering the same thing. i cut a coild off my truck and it still sets pretty dang high. i was almost thinking maybe someone put big block spring or something in my truck. it rides HIGH. i just ordered 3" lowering springs last night going to see what they do if thats not low enough i will buy the spindles just sucks its about 250 dollars for the spindles compared to 100 dollars for the springs.

[Ekliptix]

As far as I know, 2" is about the most for front drop springs, and 6" is about the most for rear drop springs. This is what i have, plus 2.5" front drop spindles for a total of 4.5" up front. I also have an extra 1/2" lowering block in the back. CPP has shocks to go along with the corresponding travel available after this type of drop, listed on their site.

[Speedracer39]

Originally Posted by Ekliptix

As far as I know, 2" is about the most for front drop springs, and 6" is about the most for rear drop springs. This is what i have, plus 2.5" front drop spindles for a total of 4.5" up front. I also have an extra 1/2" lowering block in the back. CPP has shocks to go along with the corresponding travel available after this type of drop, listed on their site.

That’s a sweet looking truck you have. What size of tires do you have?

[69moneypit]

Originally Posted by Ekliptix

As far as I know, 2" is about the most for front drop springs, and 6" is about the most for rear drop springs. This is what i have, plus 2.5" front drop spindles for a total of 4.5" up front. I also have an extra 1/2" lowering block in the back. CPP has shocks to go along with the corresponding travel available after this type of drop, listed on their site.

How does your truck ride ?

[Notes]

Truck rides great. New tires - which have “somehow” led to lowering. Just spent some bucks. 3” springs in front, 4” in rear. KYB shocks. Shock relocate stuff & adj. trac bar. Fun starts next week. Thanks for all the help

[Ekliptix]

Originally Posted by 69moneypit

How does your truck ride ?

With the ECE included KYB shocks, it was good for a while but became bouncy after I believe the shocks wore out (less then 3000mi). I just replace the KYBs with CPP shocks and have 60 miles of seat time with them now. They're stiffer and not bouncy. When I took the KYBs out, I could compress them by hand and they would not extend on their own, maybe a sign that they became shot even with few miles. I expect the CPPs to hold up better. If I had more money, I'd get the RideTech shocks, by Fox, which the ECE guys use on their personal trucks.

[Ekliptix]

275/60/15 all around.

Here are some suspension kits to consider: http://www.earlyclassic.com/catalog....ry=Drop%20Kits. I was not happy with the ride of the ECE included shocks, so I've just installed some CPP shocks to replace them.

[Notes]

Thanks for the replies so far. How’s this look? https://www.classicindustries.com/pr...cssk6372a.html

[special-K]

That's the economical way to go, and easier than spindle change. 3" is the max spring drop to be able to still align properly.

I thought this was going to be a thread for a think tank type discussion of how to lower the amount of ignorance in the world. The world could use it ya know

[Notes]

If I already have 1” blocks in the rear and want to lower 3” from there, should I remove the block and get 4” dropped springs, or keep it and get 3” springs?

[Ekliptix]

Originally Posted by Notes

If I already have 1” blocks in the rear and want to lower 3” from there, should I remove the block and get 4” dropped springs, or keep it and get 3” springs?

4" springs will give you more travel (this is good) then a 3" spring + block.

[special-K]

Any time you can eliminate the blocks it is a good thing. They are an ok thing to do, but you are putting the trailing arms lower to the ground, reducing ground clearance...scrub point. Using all spring changes nothing from stock trailing arm clearance to ground.

[Mike C]

This is funny. I'm usually the guy trying to get Tim to ditch the blocks! LOL On 4x4 I am not a fan, but on the 2x4 I think they are an ok solution. With some caveats.

I'm working through this in my head, but the tire height dictates the clearance to the trailing arm, and the blocks will move the axle up decreasing clearance to the ground for the arm by the thickness of the block. So if you are running 29" tall tires you won't have any less clearance than a guy running 27" tall tires, but definitely something to consider.

3" spring seems to be the limit to how short a coil you can go and still be able to get full adjustability to align the front. IMO, the spindles are a much better solution. By themselves for a 2 1/2" or 3" drop depending on manufacturer then add a 1" or 2" spring if you want to go lower.

Once again, IMO, 4 1/2" is about the limit for a static drop without hurting the driveability of the truck in anyway.

I have a '71 big block GMC long bed C10 sitting in my driveway right now and am pondering dropping it as well. It is a coil spring truck and my initial thoughts are spindles with a 1" spring and 5" coils for the rear. Keeping the blocks in my back pocket to adjust final front/rear rake. But coils are cheap enough that just a second set may be the better choice.

All of this I guess is why I still haven't ordered any parts.

[demian5]

Originally Posted by Notes

So many ways - so much confusion. ’72 C10. Rides & drives great. 1” lowering blocks on rear. It sets level. I’d like to lower it 3” front & back. Can it be as simple as 3” lowering springs and new shocks all around, or is it more complicated than that? Thanks in advance.

That is exactly how mine is lowered. Its perfect. Make sure you trim the bump stops and replace, adjust the center support with the rear end at ride height (compressed).

I used this kit:

http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...6372CSSK-D.htm

And spindles don't like 15" rims and sometimes require a notch in the lower control arm to prevent spitting the weights off.

If I go lower it will be spindles and another 1" on the block for a 2".

[Notes]

Appreciate all the info so far. With a 1” block and 3” springs do you need to relocate the shock mounts? Same question if no block and 4” springs. Thanks again.

[demian5]

Originally Posted by Notes

Appreciate all the info so far. With a 1” block and 3” springs do you need to relocate the shock mounts? Same question if no block and 4” springs. Thanks again.

You don't have to do anything, but you "should" relocate the shock mounts for the shocks to work. That is why i sent the link for the kit I used. new mounts, shocks, pan hard bar. All the stuff you need to lower it properly.

[Notes]

Any pics of ’72 full size bed lowered 3” front & rear?

[demian5]

Originally Posted by Notes

Any pics of ’72 full size bed lowered 3” front & rear?

Mine is a 70 long bed.

[Ekliptix]

You will find some in here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=471442