Front suspension and steering linkage, questions

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

71 C-10, 2WD.

When I first dove into this frame-off, I had hoped for some help with the suspension & steering. Same with the steering column, but I learned how to do that too, and glad I did.

Since suspension and steering linkage is all that's left on the truck, less the block and transmission anyways, it's time I learn how this is done.

I find it much easier to have the correct labels of parts before I dive in. A few questions by the novice too. Hopefully the images & captions speak 1000 words. I've numbered the parts to make this more better. Any help, corrections & input appreciated. Thank you.

Images have been updated thanks to board help.

[AussieinNC]

11 is Idler Arm Support

13 is Idler Arm

7 is the cross shaft...

This link will help you identify the parts...

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/full.aspx?Page=63


re bushes in top arms...you mentioned "rubber"...the rubber shown is simply a grease seal...that excludes dust from the true pivot which consists of the threaded cross shaft and the large nuts on the end of the cross shaft...the grease nipple screws into the end of the "nut".

As to "are the upper and lower arms usable...your choice really...

Depends on what you intend to do to the truck...there are lots of original control arms out there running everywhere...

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

11 is Idler Arm Support

13 is Idler Arm

7 is the cross shaft...

This link will help you identify the parts...

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/full.aspx?Page=63

Thank you


re bushes in top arms...you mentioned "rubber"...the rubber shown is simply a grease seal...that excludes dust from the true pivot which consists of the threaded cross shaft and the large nuts on the end of the cross shaft...the grease nipple screws into the end of the "nut". I see, the cross shaft is separate pieces and disassemble. I noticed the shafts come with new control arms, so it threw me off.

As to "are the upper and lower arms usable...your choice really...

Depends on what you intend to do to the truck...there are lots of original control arms out there running everywhere...They're in good condition, so I'll probably reuse them and add new grease shields.

Thank you

[indymachinist]

Cross shafts can be replaced separately from the control arms.

Control arms that are not bent can be reused. I replaced one of mine that was bent, and had them all powdercoated.

Upper ball joint rivets get cut/drilled out to replace. Replacement ball joints are bolted back in using rivet holes.

In my case, I replaced all tie rod ends, ball joints, cross shafts, idler arm, etc with new Moog parts. Yours look to be in a lot nicer condition than mine were though.

[RedRider]

I'm getting ready to go down the same road so this info is great! Can I follow your progress here, or another thread?

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Thanks for the information, it's appreciated.



As for my progress on this, I'll probably take it slow, but absolutely, I'll update/post as I go. I won't re-assemble for another year or so, but for me, like many, I learn how to build as I take things apart.

Near as I can tell, first thing to remove is the steering linkage. Then the steering box, then the coil springs, then the control arms & spindles. Edit: Here's a nice thread of a current front suspension restoration. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=746504.................................Like me, he has rear leaf springs. Leafs look straight forward, so long as you're careful and have a plan. Rust an issue however. My truck is blessed from that standpoint. It's pretty dry in a Nevada garage. I hadn't even washed the truck in decades. Why wash a truck you've planned to restore for (COUGH!), 20 years or so? Worked out very well to wait though, good timing.


Images were updated thanks to board help. Thank you

[Zeroman]

One word of advice, just make sure you reinstall the center link correctly.

If you install in reverse then you have issues with the steering.

Here is a thread with great pictures.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=738284

[AussieinNC]

One word of extreme caution...especially for the front springs, less so for the rears but still be wary...

The springs are under a lot of stored pressure when installed and the control arms are connected to the spindle....or trailing arms in the case of rears.

I usually support the frame directly with a jack stand, about 18" tall....
Remove the calipers and rotors, place a floor jack under the outer edge of the bottom control arm and take some load up on the control arm until the top control arm cushion rubber is off of the cross member.
Remove the bottom shock bolt and nut and push the shock up out of the way.
Remove the outer tie rod nut and remove the tie rod from the spindle.
Remove the lower ball joint nut and rap on the lower spindle are until the lower ball joint comes loose...sometime a bit of a battle...
Once the spindle is loose of the bottom ball joint, slowly lower the jack and allow the spring to slowly unload.

I have witnessed several severe injuries from springs that have exploded out of the lower arm when the ball joint released...

Please be careful...

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

One word of extreme caution...especially for the front springs, less so for the rears but still be wary...

The springs are under a lot of stored pressure when installed and the control arms are connected to the spindle....or trailing arms in the case of rears.

I usually support the frame directly with a jack stand, about 18" tall....
Remove the calipers and rotors, place a floor jack under the outer edge of the bottom control arm and take some load up on the control arm until the top control arm cushion rubber is off of the cross member.
Remove the bottom shock bolt and nut and push the shock up out of the way.
Remove the outer tie rod nut and remove the tie rod from the spindle.
Remove the lower ball joint nut and rap on the lower spindle are until the lower ball joint comes loose...sometime a bit of a battle...
Once the spindle is loose of the bottom ball joint, slowly lower the jack and allow the spring to slowly unload.

I have witnessed several severe injuries from springs that have exploded out of the lower arm when the ball joint released...

Please be careful...

Thanks for the advise, I appreciate the detail The shocks etc. are off. All that's left is the steering linkage, spindles, control arms and ball joints. Let me ask, why wouldn't I remove the tie rod first, and then remove the springs with spring compressors, and then remove the control arms?

Perhaps your method (jack up the lower control arm) is better.....

[RedRider]

Spring compressors are inherently dangerous as well, best to use the forces within the wheelwell to your advantage.
So I spent the day disassembling my linkage, removing ball joints and cleaning up the A arms. I found the pitman arm puller from harbor freight very helpful when pulling the linkage from the drag link. Drilling the upper ball joints out was a chore, but a little determination went a long way. The rest of the day was spent with an angle grinder and a wire wheel cleaning everything up.

[kwmech]

Just back the lower nut off a few threads until the taper pops loose from the spindle. Then make sure everything is supported by the floor jack, then remove the nut. Been doing this for 40 years, never had a problem

[RedRider]

Originally Posted by kwmech

Just back the lower nut off a few threads until the taper pops loose from the spindle. Then make sure everything is supported by the floor jack, then remove the nut.

Went this route, worked like a charm

[WrenchTurner]

I'm in for the ride!