How to change out the engine on an RV/Motorhome?

[Coley]

Anyone know what it takes or 'how to do it' to change out/replace the engine on a 'C' series motorhome/RV?
That is the kind of RV that has the standard (GM) 'van' front end only and then a big full body camper shell attached and integrated into it.

Now, I know that if it was 'just' a regular van you would do it from/through the sliding side door. However an RV does not necessarily have that size of door in that location....plus its interior rv stuff might be in the way?

Is this someone done through the front end, thus removing the rad support, bumpers, hood, etc...hmmm? or remove the passenger seat and go through the passenger door? .....or?

...just curious if anyone has any history with this, witnessed it or actually done it.

Coley

[100%Chevy]

I own a 86,G-30 rv.
It looks like it would be easier to go thru the passenger door opening.
Remove the engine cover and seat.Then the door.
After that,just un-hook the engine stuff and reach in with the engine lift.(leave the trans in there)
I also have a huge motorhome that I bought for the big block Chevy engine.
I had to cut out the whole front grill area,thinking I''ll stick the engine puller straight in and grab it.Almost worked!Except there wasn't enough room left to lift it without hitting the dash.
So,thru the door on both next time!
Mike.

[truckster]

The last one I did I unbolted the front crossmember and dropped in out the bottom. It's a pain, but it seemed easier than the other alternatives. Of course, that's been years ago, so my memory's a little foggy.

[bill3rail]

I have done vans through the front end. Just remove hood down and get a tight lifting chain with a lowboy hoist so it goes straight in and lifts it.
From what I can recall, it was a *****, but I completed the job.

Bill

It is those big ass class A's which are insane!

[Bigdav160]

Van engines should come out the front by removing the hood, grill, core support, radiator, a/c condenser (if equipped)

[GASoline71]

What Bigdav160 said ^^^

Last time I removed an engine in a van, we drove the van onto ramps at all 4 tires and then removed all of the above from the front end, and removed the engine through the front with a regular hoist. Driving it up onto ramps helped raise the rig high enough to use a standard sized hoist.

Gary

[Hutch]

It should come out the passenger door
The hoist will need the extensions for the feet and hoist as it will need the extra reach

[randy500]

I’ve done dozens of engine changes in chevy vans to include Astro vans too.
The engine is not removed from the passenger door nor the sliding door. That would be impossible to do.

The upper portion of the core support is removable, remove that along with the grill and readiator, you may have to remove the bumper to get the grill out.
The engine will almost always come out complete with all accessories and exhaust manifolds.
Your engine hoist needs to be as close to the carb mount surface as possible to get enough lift, use a carb lift plate. I slotted the boom of my hoist to slide into the carb lift plate for max lift.
Remove the engine mount through bolts then remove the engine frame stand bolts at the cradle.
When you slightly lift the engine the frame stands will fall away creating additional clearance to slide the engine out.
Goes back in easy the same way, just get the engine in place, bolt to trans then install the frame stands.

If you don’t remove the frame stands there is usually not enough room to lift the engine over the stands because the hoist hits the cowl preventing enough lift.

[randy500]

adjust the height of the van body using jack stands so the engine hoist boom is approx. level when attached to the engine for max lift and clearance.

[Coley]

Ok......so probably out the front of the Van...with a lot of disassembly....and 'maybe' out the passenger side door.
Anyone have anything more on either of these two options, history, why or why not?

Also, time wise how would a project of this scope compare to a regular 'engine' swap?.....

Coley

[randy500]

Time wise I can pull a van engine as quick as a truck engine. Honestly it’s easier than you would think. Grill and bumper should come right off, about as time consuming as removing and storing a truck hood. Then the remainder is just like a truck. Sometimes I will remove the seat but usually not.
Also on all engine removals, any Chevrolet, unhook the engine wiring from the firewall and then unfasten harnesss back to engine and lay harness on engine, saves much time and prevents wiring hang ups.
If somehow you make the bad decision to not remove the engine frame stands then you will have to remove the starter and oil filter to clear the stands.
I will post a picture of the engine lift plate attached to the hoist so you can see how to get the most clearance.

[randy500]

Pic of hoist attached to carb lift plate, using the front hole only unbalances the engine a small amount. This arrangement give you max lift clearance since the interference is the hoist boom contacting the cowl under the windshield wipers.

[randy500]

Slotted hoist boom.

[Ozzy2013]

Cool thanks for the info!If i ever do one now i know .

[kwmech]

I've done it both ways. Coming out the pass door, the intake and cylinder heads need to be removed in vehicle to prevent scraping the door post and door panel. Out the front (even though you have to remove a bit of sheet metal and disconnect the AC) is much easier than disassembling the engine on your knees.

[Coley]

....very good info guys....and it sounds like coming straight out the front would be the way to go.

Many Thanks!
Coley

[toms68cst]

I immediately thought of this old thread when I saw the words "Motorhome" and "engine removal."

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ight=motorhome

[Hutch]

That is the first thought I had after reading the post title
A great adventure from the past
Only Tx Firefighter would use a Mountain Dew to put out a motorhome fire