Darn it anyhow, more front suspension questions - disassembling the control arms

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

See picture and captions. Any input appreciated. Thank you

[Richard2112]

Those caps will often have a spot weld on them. Mine did. And the pivot bar will turn some number of rotations on threads that will shift the center.

You can adjust those before install for more or less caster but I think the pivot bar is usually centered same number of turns and both sides (driver and passenger) are set the same.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Richard2112

Those caps will often have a spot weld on them. Mine did. And the pivot bar will turn some number of rotations on threads that will shift the center.

You can adjust those before install for more or less caster but I think the pivot bar is usually centered same number of turns and both sides (driver and passenger) are set the same.

Yep, I see a very tiny spot weld on the cap I tried to remove. I clean em up and pull the caps off.

The upper control arm pivot bar ("shaft") does a 180 with a little more play. The lower one turns 360 degrees, but still only fits one way. But you said "rotations", so I'm probably way off. I'll now more with the caps off.

Originally Posted by FirstOwner69

The service manual is your friend. It has a good description of the removal process and how to re-center the shafts. Torque values are also near the end of the manual.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=558016

Very cool, sometimes I forget about that manual. Frustrating to read on occassion, especially when you find out it's not there.........HA!

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

If your sending them out for powder coat you assemble them after, this should help .

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=599579

Definitely and thread noted. I'm going through it now, there's a lot of good info.

I didn't know to count turns when I removed the steering linkage, but I measured the thread exposed from the couplers, and the lengths. I figured I'd just buy grease seals for the existing tie rods. But now you have me wondering if new tie rods are more better. Old ones look great, but........

[jessemthompson]

I have not tackled this job as of yet, but I know they are not pressed on. It does take some grunt to get them off though. I’ve seen a picture of one that someone rolled over with their tire and then removed it.

[FirstOwner69]

The service manual is your friend. It has a good description of the removal process and how to re-center the shafts. Torque values are also near the end of the manual.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=558016

[Grumpy old man]

If your sending them out for powder coat you assemble them after, this should help .

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=599579

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

I knocked off the weld on one. Nothing. I take it you have to cut the bushings out first?

Any thoughts on new control arms already built? Are good ones available?

[Lanman1972]

My winter project, so I'm in.

[FirstOwner69]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

I knocked off the weld on one. Nothing. I take it you have to cut the bushings out first?

Any thoughts on new control arms already built? Are good ones available?

I'm not sure how you could cut them without damaging the control arms. The bushings are steel and have both outer and inner threads. The outer threads engage the control arms and the inner threads engage the shafts. This allows the control arms to be shifted fore and aft. I get confused with the alignment terms, but I believe that's the caster adjustment. You may want to consider buying a 3/4" drive socket set if you don't have one. I bought one at Harbor Freight that's fine for occasional use. Then get a long cheater and have at it.

[weq92f]

I swapped my bushings/caps/shafts out using nothing more than a big pipe wrench. No welds found on there but they had been done at some time in the past ( not factory fresh ).

Hth,

-klb

[Steeveedee]

John Armstrong is your friend. Or use a decent impact wrench. After being on there that long, and having been given a serious torquing at the factory, they are tight. But they will unscrew the entire way.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

You guys helped a lot. After I cut any spot welds, I soaked it up with penetrating oil, heated it up good on the inside and out with a heat gun, and used a big pipe wrench and big pipe.....BINGO!

The pipe was the ticket. BFH on the pipe wrench wouldn't do it. Thank you.

[Steeveedee]

I love the smell of penetrating oil in the morning. Smells like...VICTORY! I have an 18" breaker but we still had to put a cheater bar on the thing, plus have my 270 pound son stand on the lower control arm while I worked it. It kept tipping him up, and since we were doing it in the side yard, we got greasy hand prints on the wall of the garage. We should have broken those loose under the truck, but we didn't realize what a job it was going to be before that. I've rebuilt many a front end over the years, but this one was a real workout. My first truck front end overhaul. FWIW, my 40+ year old impact wrench wasn't cutting it. It used to be able to take (1/2") lug nuts off in either direction, but it's showing its age these days, too.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

I love the smell of penetrating oil in the morning. Smells like...VICTORY! I have an 18" breaker but we still had to put a cheater bar on the thing, plus have my 270 pound son stand on the lower control arm while I worked it. It kept tipping him up, and since we were doing it in the side yard, we got greasy hand prints on the wall of the garage. We should have broken those loose under the truck, but we didn't realize what a job it was going to be before that. I've rebuilt many a front end over the years, but this one was a real workout. My first truck front end overhaul. FWIW, my 40+ year old impact wrench wasn't cutting it. It used to be able to take (1/2") lug nuts off in either direction, but it's showing its age these days, too.

I had the control arms in the vice, and employed my 220 lb. son to hold one while I pulled the nuts off.

I still have to hit the lowers, but I can now say the "hard part" part is cleaning. Lot of grease built up over 45 years, it's a dirty job.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

I had the control arms in the vice, and employed my 220 lb. son to hold one while I pulled the nuts off.

I still have to hit the lowers, but I can now say the "hard part" part is cleaning. Lot of grease built up over 45 years, it's a dirty job.

Yeah, mine were in no danger of rusting, either, with 45 years worth of grease built up on 'em.

[notsolo]

On Reassembling the bottom especially, 2 dimple holes up on control shaft and angled to about where they will bolt back on the cross member, align the control shaft in the 2 holes on either side of lower control arm, put the screw caps on either side, just starting the threads. Match the number you put on each cap as you thread them into the control arm and onto the shaft. There is a thread on here that may explain it better.....Ed.

[RedRider]

You're making some good progress, thanks for the great documentation.