4/6 Drop long bed

[Oldironracing]

Looking at doing a 4/6 drop on a 72 long bed. Any tips on what to look at or do not to do. Going to use factory a farms and the trailing arms if I can.

[DjS71]

Early Classic is the usual recommendation around here. It's about the limit without a notch, and might look into one especially if you plan on using it like a truck.

Check your brake hoses, ball joints, tie rods and carrier bearing / pinion angle while you're down there. Not too hard a job overall.

[Oldironracing]

Originally Posted by DjS71

Early Classic is the usual recommendation around here. It's about the limit without a notch, and might look into one especially if you plan on using it like a truck.

Check your brake hoses, ball joints, tie rods and carrier bearing / pinion angle while you're down there. Not too hard a job overall.

I have bought the 4/6 kit from Early Classic and a complete rebuild kit for the front end. What about flipping the trailing arm bracket to help correct Pinion angle I have already done a c notch.

[hewittca]

Originally Posted by Oldironracing

I have bought the 4/6 kit from Early Classic and a complete rebuild kit for the front end. What about flipping the trailing arm bracket to help correct Pinion angle I have already done a c notch.

Looks like you are on the right track then! The trailing arm bracket flip is a good way to help correct pinion on slammed trucks, but I think the consensus around here is that it's not needed on anything at or less than a 6" drop. Of course, there have been a few guys who have gone ahead and done it anyway. I would probably get your drop installed and then measure your angles and take it for a drive and see where you are. If you want to tweak the pinion angle a bit, I would go with some pinion shims first instead of flipping the brackets and see how that helps.

[ericfallon]

What amount of travel does a 6" drop in rear have if you don't notch?
Assuming nothing in bed..

[hewittca]

I know some have reported that they are running 6" springs without a notch but that is really cutting it close and varies from truck to truck. On mine, I have 5" springs and 2" of travel. So far I have not bottomed out, but my roads are fairly good and I haven't put anything in the bed yet. When I get on the bumper and bounce it up/down I can get it to bottom out pretty easily.

[ericfallon]

Originally Posted by hewittca

I know some have reported that they are running 6" springs without a notch but that is really cutting it close and varies from truck to truck. On mine, I have 5" springs and 2" of travel. So far I have not bottomed out, but my roads are fairly good and I haven't put anything in the bed yet. When I get on the bumper and bounce it up/down I can get it to bottom out pretty easily.

My plan is 4" springs and 2" blocks. with air lift rubber/plastic bladder helpers inside the coil spring.. for when I'll have things in the bed.. Shows, or a long cruise powertour /etc and take tools and a few extra part.
2" travel doesn't seem like much.. was hoping to not have to notch the frame.

[71cheyennesuperlongb]

On my 71 lwb I put 2500 lbs bags on the rear.Cut my bumpstops in half, and I have 2 1/4 inches of clearance between top of rearend and frame. The only thing Is I have 4 in. between top of center section and steel bedfloor. A c-notch will only give about 4 inch total travel upward with a 6 in drop. That is the amount of rear drop that I have 6 inches.

[CG]

If you are running 15 inch rims and are using 2 inch blocks parts of your suspension will be below the scrub line if you get a flat. I have that set up on my panel (not on the road) and the shock brackets hang below the rim a little bit.