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Old 11-16-2003, 11:54 PM   #1
BOSS
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Help with window seals please?

Ok guys i got the bottoms(scrapers)and the tops(seals)in the truck tonight but cant get the front(fuzzies)to stay put.the old ones came out in pieces,think they might have been glued in.If so what kind of glue will i need?Any other tricks?Thanx guys
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Old 11-17-2003, 12:00 AM   #2
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Fuzzies

Your new seals and fuzzies snapped into place into the slotted holes didn't they? They should be tight if they did, unless you missed, or the holes are rusted out???? I just put some in tonight too.....snapped right in....well, almost........ Patch
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Old 11-17-2003, 12:07 AM   #3
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i got the bottom on ok,haveing trouble with the ones between the window and vent window
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Old 11-17-2003, 01:02 AM   #4
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Quick Question on the scrapers, inner and outer. How do they attatch to the door? the originals look like they use staples. Do you just wire them in or are there screws with the seal kit?
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Old 11-17-2003, 09:47 AM   #5
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Door window fuzzies,(scrapers) are held in by special clips that clip into the oval shaped holes in the door. Once the fuzzies are installed, (snapped in), they will not come out easily. The clips act like fish hooks.

Jim
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Old 11-17-2003, 10:50 AM   #6
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If your talking about the division bar post felt a little bit of 3m weatherstripping adhesive will hold them.
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Old 11-17-2003, 10:50 AM   #7
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Scrapers

Mine are in OK, but the outer scraper (rubber one) has a gap between it and the window glass so water still runs into the door. I can't really push the two sides of the door in much, so I don't think that the door has "sprung" to open up the area around the window. How wide are the outer scrapers? Perhaps the ones I purchased are narrower than OEM.
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Old 11-17-2003, 01:50 PM   #8
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LOBO 74,

There is a good chance that your door has separated. The gap between the two halves of your door as measured close to the vent window run needs to be .900" approximately in order to cover the gap with the fuzzies. The gap seems to vary on doors
so less is good, I have two 72 doors that are just under .800 at the vent window run.

Jim
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Old 11-17-2003, 02:20 PM   #9
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Fix it?

I can get the gap a little tighter by pressing the door sides together, but not a lot.

How is this fixed? Easy to repair? Stupid question, of course its not. But, how difficult is it?
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Old 11-17-2003, 02:38 PM   #10
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You are right it is not real easy. The window and the vent have to come out so that you can repair the connector between the two halves. There is a 3/4 wide strip of metal between the two halves
made up of a tab from each panel. The tabs are welded in the middle and that is where they break. The old metal will have to be cleaned up and then a new piece can be welded in. I believe that it is 20 gage material. The tabs are close the the vent window frame at the front of the door.

I would protect the door and interior by covering them prior to welding.

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Old 11-17-2003, 03:11 PM   #11
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Inside door repair

I just had both doors torn apart about two months ago to clean up rust inside and POR the inside of them prior to putting in all new window rubber. I did not see anything that had come apart, and I painted durn near every possible surface in there. Is this a sublte break or would I have noticed it?

Next question, is this tab where a hole could be drilled in it and a bolt inserted in it? No welder or welding experience here. Like to learn, but now time to do so now.

Thanks for ans info,

Dave
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Old 11-17-2003, 03:47 PM   #12
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excellent topic

This is a popular or not so popular probelm that plagues many of us. Shall we call it a design weakspot. I guess GM never wanted thses trucks to last this long!!

We ned to get some experienced with this fix and document it well with pitures and put it in the Frequently asked questions forum. This is a great subject to get experiences out on table.
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Old 11-17-2003, 11:13 PM   #13
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67-71 doors fatigue alot at the upper hinge and the cross brace that holds the inner door and outer skin together at the vent post. Some braces break at the end and a piece of 90 degree angle sheet metal can be welded in over the break or it can be installed by drilling at an angle and thru bolting. If it is broken in the middle it can be fixed by a piece of metal to cross the break and thru bolting or laying the metal accross the break and welding. The upper hinge metal fatigue is caused by worn hinges and to fix correctly you need a donor door with good metal to cut the patch out of and weld it into your door. Welding the crack without patching is a temparary fix and will break again next to the weld.
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Old 11-17-2003, 11:43 PM   #14
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So it sounds like new doors are needed. Either that or cut and weld. Unless you have the equipment and skill that gets pretty expensive.
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Old 11-18-2003, 12:37 AM   #15
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On one of my doors I get water in it too, but I'm currently missing the bolt that goes in right below the vent window. I think if I get around to getting a new bolt, that will fix it.
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Old 11-18-2003, 10:53 AM   #16
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If all this effort is in an attempt to prevent water from coming into the door----forget it. Any 67-72 door will let water in as the outer rubber seal that is supposed to rub against the door glass will never prevent water from entering if rain comes in that direction. The window channels etc. allow for the glass window to wobble and that in turn allows for that outer seal to NOT be tight against the glass very long. You can also get water to streem down the front channel or the rear channel. If you loaded up the interior inner and outer door with POR15, that's about the best anyone can do to prevent door rust. If the inner and outer door shells are loose at the front rail, that is a different issue, one worthy of repair or replacement. My .02 having done several doors~~~and have 2 more sets to do~~~
Correct fuzzies come with clips attached. If you have blanks, you will need to glue/epoxy them into place which can be a pain as you often wind up bending the section of the door that holds the fuzzy in place. this will need to be nice and straight for attachment. Try 3M trim adhesive but make sure to give it time to dry real good before using.
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Old 11-18-2003, 11:53 PM   #17
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My new division bar felts(bought from Kingparts) came with the required rivets.I removed the vent windows,drilled out the original rivets, and put the new felts in.Then I drilled the holes for the new rivets and used a spacer made up of a stack of washers to get the tip of my rivet gun to seat all!!! the way to the bottom of the felt and pop riveted them back in.They haven't moved since.
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