Convert to floor shifter - Lokar specific

[Droff]

I've got a '68 GMC 3/4 ton that I want to swap to a floor shift, I have a 700R4 transmission, column shift. I plan on going with a Lokar 16" shifter but there are a couple models for this.
One model mounts to the tranny and one model mounts to the floor. I haven't decided on which one to go with yet, don't know why one would be any better than the other one.
Anyone have some input on which would be 'better', 'easiest', 'preferred', etc and why?
This will be my first jump into doing this conversion, just looking for some more info before I go a certain route.
Thanks.

[geezer#99]

Depends where you want the shifter handle.
Floor mounted you can put it anywhere.
Tranny mounted you’re stuck with the location.
Might be too far forward close to the dash.

Here’s some info.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=716005

[Droff]

Thanks for that link, I'd seen that before and had forgotten about it. Looks like the floor mount is more painless than the tranny mount, more flexibility as well. Looks like I'll more than likely be going that direction.
Thanks.

[MikeB]

Have you thought about what to use for a gear indicator? We used this one in a buddy's car. It's also available with the indicator mounted on the boot hold-down ring.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/l...8aAkD4EALw_wcB

It works well, but it's expensive and not a trivial installation, and Lokar doesn't seem to offer a mechanical indicator. Or you could skip the indicator and just select gears by feel, which you probaly do more times than not with a column shifter.

Here's option from B&M.

https://www.flowmastermufflers.com/p...-light-truck/?

[Droff]

Thanks for the link but really not too concerned with the gear indicator, just go by feel of the shifter. I may change my mind on that so good to know it's out there.

I had planned on the Lokar but that B&M doesn't look too bad, not sure on the shifter mount/boot, that looks pretty big.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by Droff

Thanks for the link but really not too concerned with the gear indicator, just go by feel of the shifter.

That's what I would have done had it been my car. Much easier and way less expensive.

Don't forget about neutral safety switch and back-up light switch.

[OregonNed]

I installed the cable operated model in my ‘68. It took a lot of work for me to get things mounted and lined up for smooth operation. It took some trial and error to find the best
Spot on the high hump to mount everything. I bought a new trans tunnel cover to start
Fresh. Hardest thing I found was getting the cable mount on the trans itself in the best position to allow a smooth shift. Ended up with literally hardly any adjustment latitude but everything worked out. It had to mount in a weird angle to clear my trans crossmember. Customer support was awesome when I had to contact them a few times. I have a few pics of the process I can post if wanted

[Droff]

This is the shifter I plan on going with;

https://www.jegs.com/i/Lokar/625/XFMS6700BB/10002/-1

Other than maybe a shifter boot, is there anything else parts wise I may need for the install/conversion?

Thanks.

[MikeB]

Looks like it includes a neutral safety switch, but I see no mention of a backup light switch.

Also, if you haven't already done it, sign up for Jeg's e-mails. In recent weeks there have been some offering 10% off, and before that $10 off $100, $25 off $250, and $50 off $500. Summit Racing has also sent me several discount codes.

[dirtyjim]

Originally Posted by Droff

This is the shifter I plan on going with;

https://www.jegs.com/i/Lokar/625/XFMS6700BB/10002/-1

Other than maybe a shifter boot, is there anything else parts wise I may need for the install/conversion?

Thanks.

the only thing I don't like about that shifter is it uses a solid linkage instead of a cable. I prefer solid linkage on trans mount shifters and cable on floor mounts. as long as your body mounts, motor mounts and trans mount is in good condition it shouldn't be an issue.


its more of a personal preference but I would run this one if I was doing a floor mount https://www.jegs.com/i/Lokar/625/COS6700BM/10002/-1


I've also mounted floor mounts to high hump trans tunnels and had to reinforce the back side of the trans tunnel to stiffen them up

[Droff]

All good info to know. I'll get under the truck and look into clearances but if I recall, the body mounts look to be in good shape. Transmission was changed by a shop about 4 months ago, he's a gear head with a Chevelle amongst his collection, I'd guess he checked the tranny mount. I don't believe I've got a high hump.
Are back-up light switches a stand alone part I can pick up? Currently my back-up lights are inop.
I'm not against a cable operated set up, linkage was a bit less $$$.

Thanks.

[OregonNed]

The back-up light switch is a separate, available item that mounts down on the lever into the transmission, (at least on a TH350). Because of my situation, I had to move the shifter bracket forward on pan bolts that are different than indicated in the instructions, (because of the crossmember issue and it being a cable shifter). With than said, I was no longer able to install the switch. Hopefully this will not be the case on this shifter on a 700.

[68Stepbed]

I have the 16" floor mounted shifter. Floor mount is a good option if the trans is already installed. The trans has to be dropped or removed to install the trans mounted shifter. Also, with either one, upgrade to the cable instead of the threaded rod linkage.

[OregonNed]

This is a problem I worked with for quite a while, and couldn't come up with a solution - the crossmember. I had to mount to these pan bolts instead of both back two bolts as instructed. Not sure if the crossmember is the issue, or just how it is. Left very little latitude for adjustment, but got it pretty smooth, though the solid part of the cable angles down slightly.

[Droff]

I appreciate the info on the little quirks, helps quite a bit. You've got me going toward the cable over the linkage at this point, looks like it could be more forgiving. The transmission is in the truck and I'm not going to take it out for the shifter mounting.
Ned - I know we've got different transmissions so maybe that's the crossmember hiccup but I don't think I'll run into that. Looks like plenty of room but I could be mistaken.

[OregonNed]

Originally Posted by Droff

I appreciate the info on the little quirks, helps quite a bit. You've got me going toward the cable over the linkage at this point, looks like it could be more forgiving. The transmission is in the truck and I'm not going to take it out for the shifter mounting.
Ned - I know we've got different transmissions so maybe that's the crossmember hiccup but I don't think I'll run into that. Looks like plenty of room but I could be mistaken.

Hopefully so. I also had an advantage in purchasing a new high hump, so I could cut and mount it on the bench, and figure out placement. Its on the flat part and slightly forward to accommodate mounting the bracket that holds the cable to the hump. Just some trial and error to get it right.

[dirtyjim]

Originally Posted by OregonNed

Hopefully so. I also had an advantage in purchasing a new high hump, so I could cut and mount it on the bench, and figure out placement. Its on the flat part and slightly forward to accommodate mounting the bracket that holds the cable to the hump. Just some trial and error to get it right.

high hump trans tunnels make it easy

[68Stepbed]

Originally Posted by OregonNed

Hopefully so. I also had an advantage in purchasing a new high hump, so I could cut and mount it on the bench, and figure out placement. Its on the flat part and slightly forward to accommodate mounting the bracket that holds the cable to the hump. Just some trial and error to get it right.

Originally Posted by dirtyjim

high hump trans tunnels make it easy

I need to upgrade to a high hump! If it weren't for the the fact I'd have to buy new carpet, I would.

[c1971]

I have a 1968 c10 that was originally 250 with 4 spd. I already had new carpet in the truck and changed my mind and installed a TBI 350 with 4L80E. I did not want to cut the floor or redo the carpet so I went with 16" tranny mounted Lokar and used the original shifter location and the original shifter boot. Plenty of room to dash and works well.

[72LB]

23" fits perfect in my 69, I plan to do the high hump in the future.

[Bobbed72]

Originally Posted by 72LB

23" fits perfect in my 69, I plan to do the high hump in the future.

I've been daydreaming of that shifter. How's the throw? does it come back far towards the seat? The only thing that keeps me from converting from the column is leaving the middle available for a passenger.

[Droff]

Thanks for that Ned, I haven't taken anything out of the Lokar box yet and hadn't seen those instructions.
The floor position references help as well, getting more of a warm fuzzy.

[Droff]

I got the shifter installed but haven't done a bind check yet. It shifts through the gears 'okay', maybe a bit sticky around 2nd or 3rd. I don't have a got feel that I'm actually in reverse every time I try it, so still have some tweaking to do.

I didn't have any crossmember issues but I did have to attach the lower cable mounting bracket onto a different set of transmission bolts so the cable would extend completely. I did not mount the shifter in the middle of the tunnel, it's more toward the driver side but nothing that looks bad. I think I can actually use the straight quad arm if I wanted to do that. I went with the 1-1/4" offset arm on the install to begin with.

The cable operated shifter was the way to go, thanks for that.

Pretty straight forward, cut a slot in the floor and drilled several holes, not too bad. I don't work fast, so it was a morning/afternoon job. Too cold outside right now for me to mess with, at least for a couple days.
Thanks for all the help.