Questions about adding aux fuse block

[jonmc56]

Hi guys,

I'm working on cleaning up some under dash wiring, and I don't like how there are several circuits that are spliced into my stock fuse box. I want to add a 4 circuit aux fuse box next to the existing fuse box, and power it from two of the 'key on' blades in the existing fuse box. I bought the painless wiring 30002 box shown below. It has no instructions whatsoever, so I'd appreciate some thoughts on how best to do this....

• I'd like to run just two wires from my existing fuse box to the new box if possible to power it up. Can I leave a strip of those brass connectors shown in the picture connected when I install them on the 'hot side' of the new box, so that they all share power? (the extra circuits will be for HEI power, Vintage Air, and stereo and amp).
• What sort of crimper do I need to use on those brass connectors?

Thanks in advance.




Jon

[ray_mcavoy]

Hi Jon,

That kit appears to be using a Packard/Delphi (now Aptiv) #12004943 fuse block with #12004568 busbar terminals. I've used those in a number of projects.

Yes, they're designed so you can leave one row of 4 terminals connected together as a busbar so you only need one wire feeding power to the fuse block. Or you can cut it into two 2-terminal sections or 1-terminal & 3-terminal sections as needed if you have circuits that will be powered from different sources (such as some ignition-switched and others that will be live all the time).

On the "fuse protected side", you will want to cut the other busbar apart to separate it into the individual terminals. Or purchase some Pack-Con III terminals.

These require a crimping tool designed for the "open barrel" Packard/Delphi type terminals. But in a pinch, you can use needle nose pliers to fold over the "wings" onto the wire and then finish the crimp with a tool meant for round barrel uninsulated terminals. Soldering the connection is also a good idea, especially if you use an alternative crimping method/tool. Note that these terminals have 2 sets of "wings" ... one that crimps onto the bare stripped end of the wire and a 2nd set that crimps around the wire's insulation as a strain relief. If you solder the terminals, wait until after they have cooled to crimp the "insulation wings" to prevent them from melting into the insulation.

[HO455]

Several things to consider. Have you added up what your total amp load is going to be? It is possible that you may exceed the ampere capacity of the supply wiring to the ignition switch.
The second is running a positive and negative from the battery solely for the stereo system makes for cleaner sound. Sharing supply wiring with electric motors or ignition systems can cause electronic interference you can hear over the speakers. You can install a relay so the ignition switch will still control the power to the stereo system, but it will be isolated from the other noisy components.

Howdy! I just noticed were neighbors.

[jonmc56]

Originally Posted by ray_mcavoy

Hi Jon,

That kit appears to be using a Packard/Delphi (now Aptiv) #12004943 fuse block with #12004568 busbar terminals. I've used those in a number of projects.

Yes, they're designed so you can leave one row of 4 terminals connected together as a busbar so you only need one wire feeding power to the fuse block. Or you can cut it into two 2-terminal sections or 1-terminal & 3-terminal sections as needed if you have circuits that will be powered from different sources (such as some ignition-switched and others that will be live all the time).

On the "fuse protected side", you will want to cut the other busbar apart to separate it into the individual terminals. Or purchase some Pack-Con III terminals.

These require a crimping tool designed for the "open barrel" Packard/Delphi type terminals. But in a pinch, you can use needle nose pliers to fold over the "wings" onto the wire and then finish the crimp with a tool meant for round barrel uninsulated terminals. Soldering the connection is also a good idea, especially if you use an alternative crimping method/tool. Note that these terminals have 2 sets of "wings" ... one that crimps onto the bare stripped end of the wire and a 2nd set that crimps around the wire's insulation as a strain relief. If you solder the terminals, wait until after they have cooled to crimp the "insulation wings" to prevent them from melting into the insulation.

Thanks Ray, exactly what I was hoping to learn, great info!

Originally Posted by HO455

Several things to consider. Have you added up what your total amp load is going to be? It is possible that you may exceed the ampere capacity of the supply wiring to the ignition switch.
The second is running a positive and negative from the battery solely for the stereo system makes for cleaner sound. Sharing supply wiring with electric motors or ignition systems can cause electronic interference you can hear over the speakers. You can install a relay so the ignition switch will still control the power to the stereo system, but it will be isolated from the other noisy components.

Howdy! I just noticed were neighbors.

Howdy HO455. Thanks, it's a good point. I had that question about total amps in the back of my mind, but haven't added it up yet. I like the idea of a separate stereo circuit, now might be a good time since I have some other wiring torn apart.

Appreciate the helpful info guys.

Jon

[clay68c10]

I would use a relay triggered off the accessories circuit to control those. Run a dedicated power from the under hood junction block.
Doing it that way adds zero additional load to the stock fuse block.