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11-25-2003, 03:49 PM | #1 |
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Manual Disc Brake ??????
I am converting to 5 lug front disc brakes and remember seeing a thread about which master cylinders are usable. I will not have power brakes, but I am thinking that you can use a power master cylinder. Can anyone offer any tips or advice on this ?What will and what will not work? Thanks for any help - Curtis
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2004 Kawasaki KLR Always looking for a cheap driver |
11-25-2003, 04:12 PM | #2 |
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It's not that hard to put a booster on there and have the best of everything (except maybe rear discs). I would think you would need power to take advantage of the disc brakes.
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11-25-2003, 04:37 PM | #3 |
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Curtis, plenty of the 71-72 trucks came with manual disc brakes. My 72 did. Just buy a non power master cylinder. O reilley has them for under 20 bucks
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11-25-2003, 05:10 PM | #4 |
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TX - That was my thought but I called oreilly,autozone and napa all said there was no listing for manual disc. Probably will get what they list and try it anyway.
The other question I have is proportion valve. Anybody sell them cheap? yahoo at oreilly said federal regulations would not let aftermarket manufacturers sell them because safety concerns Also will the pushrod into the master cylinder that I currently have work? Thanks for your help.
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2004 Kawasaki KLR Always looking for a cheap driver Last edited by 67sub; 11-25-2003 at 05:20 PM. |
11-25-2003, 11:06 PM | #5 |
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Tell them to get out the book & look it up, or go to a real parts place.
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11-25-2003, 11:22 PM | #6 |
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most 71-72s didnt have the power booster and like all the 1/2 tons have front discs
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11-25-2003, 11:38 PM | #7 |
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No booster's??? I have never seen a 71-72 with out the power booster. Add on's maybe, I doubt it.
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11-25-2003, 11:41 PM | #8 |
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The point I was trying to make is why not use the booster, you can get the stuff you need for $50 or so and it only takes an hour or so to install, especially if you are going to take the master cylinder off anyways.
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11-25-2003, 11:50 PM | #9 |
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I agree with krue if you do not have a booster then add one when you have everything apart,brake's are very important ...
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11-26-2003, 01:25 AM | #10 |
its all about the +6 inches
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Boosters are not really needed..just nice to have IMO. And if you have a wild cam...or plan on one sometime, then the booster can be a real pain in the dana. I had power brakes on the first longhorn and my cam made so little vacume that even an additional vacume canister only let me hit the brakes about 3 or 4 times before the pedal got hard.
That'll scare the crap outa you in bumper to bumper rush hr grid lock. Don't know about teh disc set up, but the drum brakes has the same master power or non power. An adjustable prop valve can be had through any performance catalog. Much better than a stock one since it is adjustable. Once you start playing with bigger tires in back it'll throw the stock parameters out the window. |
11-26-2003, 01:28 AM | #11 |
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do not get a master for power disk and use it without a booster you will not be able to push the pedal and stop the truck. you have to use a non power master cylinder if your not using a booster
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11-26-2003, 01:28 AM | #12 | |
Watch out for your cornhole !
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Quote:
Just hackin on ya man.
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11-26-2003, 04:37 AM | #13 | |
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Quote:
Here ya go... http://mpbrakes.com/findmasteracc.htm |
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11-26-2003, 04:45 AM | #14 |
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I did a power brake swap on my '72. It had manual discs when I got it. My manual brakes started going out, so I just did the swap. I love it. I would highly reccommend it. You will have to use a manual brake master if you want to retain your setup. The way the pushrod enters the master is different between the 2. I suggest you do the swap. You can get the setup pretty cheap used. Just be sure and test the booster with a vaccuum. If you have a wild cam you will have a vaccuum problem, but there are ways around that, like late model s-10 electric vaccuum pumps.
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11-26-2003, 03:49 PM | #15 |
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My cam is not wild by my standards but is by some peoples. It is a Comp with 274/286 duration (230/236 @.050), 487/490 lift, 110 lobe seperation, and 106 centerline. Comp shows this cam should have 11"Hg @ 800rpm and 14" at 1000 rpm, but we ran one in a friends truck and had problems with power brakes.
There is also a major funding issue right now so I was going to try and do the swap ultra cheap but as usual looks like I need to gather up some cash and make sure the parts are right. Thanks everyone for the input and keep it coming if you have any more. - Curtis
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2004 Kawasaki KLR Always looking for a cheap driver |
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