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06-02-2019, 09:30 PM | #1 |
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progress today and questions for the pros
So today I got my truck stripped down to the frame. Not a single bolt left on it. I’ve got the POR15 and all the prep materials ready to start in. This part seems fairly straight forward. I have read that as long as you follow the instructions to the letter with all the steps that this stuff works well. I do have a few questions in regards to the suspension.
First. From what I’ve read POR15 isn’t very flexible and prone to cracking if flexed. So I’m thinking I should be using something else on the leaf springs. Any suggestions? Second. I plan on using leaf spring liners. This seems easy enough but I'm curious how it will go back together. Will it all go back together just as it did before even though it’s a little thicker now with liners between all the leafs? I know I will have more questions but this will keep me busy for awhile. Thank you for any advice you might have |
06-03-2019, 01:39 AM | #2 |
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Re: progress today and questions for the pros
Do you have any access in your area to a powder coater? I just had my frame and a bunch of other stuff done for only $500, you couldn't even afford the paint to do it for that! It is SOOOOOO nice working with that frame now all smooth and finished. And the best part, it wasn't any work!
Brian
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1948 Chevy pickup Chopped, Sectioned, 1953 Corvette 235 powered. Once was even 401 Buick mid engined with the carburetor right between the seats! Bought with paper route money in 1973 when I was 15. "Fan of most anything that moves human beings" |
06-03-2019, 05:58 AM | #3 | |
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Re: progress today and questions for the pros
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06-03-2019, 10:08 AM | #4 |
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Re: progress today and questions for the pros
now that you have the frame sitting out on stands with nothing else on it, before you do anything else, clean it and then check it for square, straightness and sag.
-if you have access to a water hose in the area it is good to degrease the frame and then wash it off with water, as it dries look for any wet lines that don't dry like the area around them. this can point to a crack. the crack will usually allow water to get inside and sit in the crack and that area dries slower so it shows up. it shows even better with hot water but thats a big luxury for most of us then -measure and mark each cross member at it's center point with a piece of tape and a fine line pen or pencil -run a string from the rear cross member mark to the front cross member mark and check to ensure the string crosses over each center mark you made -do a cross check from corner to corner and compare, this can be out about 1/8" but is also hard to do by yourself. a clamp works well to hold the end of the tape if working alone. remember to get the end of the tape placed in the same place on each side so the dimension is accurate and the same -run the string along the top or bottom of each frame rail and check for sag. a couple of short pieces of 2x4 or other spacer material work well to get the string up off the frame high enough to clear the bump -if is it all good then start looking for loose rivets and small cracks . loose rivets can be replaced with grade 8 bolts but clean the surfaces down to bare smooth steel so the fasteners have a flat surface to bear down on -sandblasting would be great if you have that in your budget but a wire wheel on a angle grinder also works to get rid of the lumps. a scraper works to get rid of the scale sometimes but be careful not to mark the frame with the sharp edges or corners of the scraper. I use a wood chisel that has the corners rounded off, it's stronger than a regular scraper -now you're ready to coat it with whatever. there are urethane paints that work pretty well as a top coat and will take some abuse from rock chips etc. I have used endura for frames before. eastwood makes a chassis paint and if you talk to a steel worker they will say to use a mastic epoxy primer which has waaay more solids in it. more solids equals a tougher surface and possibly a single coat. i have used por15 and found it to be a bit on the brittle side. for the springs if you disassemble them you might consider flipping them upside down on a couple pieces of wood or right on the dirt, then give them a couple of good whacks in the middle with a sledge hammer. take a good look at the leafs after that and see if there are any cracks. better to find out early that you have a weak spring or a fatigued leaf than after you have the whole truck apart and a week later you find a broken leaf has come out and wrecked a tire. an old spring tech told me this is what he does before doing any re-arch or rebush etc. then when installing the slipper parts you will need new center bolts. ensure you have the right diameter and length before you start. new u bolts are also advised. for paint, same thing goes, high solids epoxy. there is also an elastomer additive if you really want to get serious. or, just regular old rust paint. depends on the budget and the tools you have on hand, like everything else. we do what we can with what we have and can afford. show trucks even get body filler on the frame before paint. I hope nobody looks under mine, lol. |
06-03-2019, 10:18 AM | #5 |
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Re: progress today and questions for the pros
oh yeah, one other thing, I have seen those concrete blocks used for jack stands many times before but understand that they are brittle and tend to crumble under spot loading. I have seen them fail multiple times in my line of work (firefighter) and had to rescue the injured/crushed worker from under the rubble. please fab up some good strong stands or blocking or spend a couple of bucks on a good set of jack stands. check the local ads or the local pawn shop for a used set. trust me, you will use them over and over in your build. personally I have 3 sets of the large 6 ton stands and a couple of shorter 3 ton stands. I have run out of stands before due to multiple things in multiple places. you will use them if you have them and you can always sell them when you're done if you find they are in your way and you don't need them anymore. check harbour freight for some inexpensive units if the cash is tight but please, never crawl under anything that is blocked up with cinder blocks.
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06-03-2019, 10:45 AM | #6 | |
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Re: progress today and questions for the pros
Quote:
Thanks for looking out tho |
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06-03-2019, 10:54 AM | #7 | |
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Re: progress today and questions for the pros
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I’m just going to use a wire wheel or whatever I need to clean up the leaf springs. I was hoping I could find something similar to what POR15 does but remain flexible. Just in case I don’t get every speck of rust off. |
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06-03-2019, 09:58 AM | #8 |
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Re: progress today and questions for the pros
I don't know to tell you the truth, I am thinking it wouldn't be good for the springs, but all the hard parts for sure! Bumper brackets, that sort of thing, it is awesome!
Brian
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1948 Chevy pickup Chopped, Sectioned, 1953 Corvette 235 powered. Once was even 401 Buick mid engined with the carburetor right between the seats! Bought with paper route money in 1973 when I was 15. "Fan of most anything that moves human beings" |
06-03-2019, 10:05 AM | #9 |
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Re: progress today and questions for the pros
The leaf springs should assemble just as before.
May I suggest you grind a small bevel on the leading edge of each leaf where it rubs on the next one? This cuts friction too and makes them slide more smoothly. Smooth = better ride.
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'55 Big Window Shortbed, Drive-It-&-Work-On-It slid down the "slippery slope" to a Frame-Off Rodstoration! LQ4/4l85e/C4 IFS/Mustang 8.8 rearend w/3.73's Dan's '55 Big Window "Build" - Well, Kinda! |
06-03-2019, 10:55 AM | #10 |
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Re: progress today and questions for the pros
I will do this. Thank you for the tip
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06-03-2019, 01:43 PM | #11 |
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Re: progress today and questions for the pros
I have used Rust Bullet instead of POR15 and do not find Rust Bullet to be brittle.
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06-04-2019, 07:59 PM | #12 |
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Re: progress today and questions for the pros
You're welcome. I hope it helps some.
Another idea occurred to me: If you're planning to lower your truck or if when you disassemble the leaves you find one or more to be broken take a look at Posie's Super Slider springs. They lower the truck with TWO leaves - safer than a mono spring. AND they come with Teflon "pucks" - rub blocks - pressed into pockets formed into the springs. PS: The amount they lower the truck will be expressed as 2" or 3" but remember that value is from the stock spring in good condition. These trucks are 60+ years old and have been heavy workers so they're already lower than they came stock. Best of luck and of course post pictures of what you do, Dan
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'55 Big Window Shortbed, Drive-It-&-Work-On-It slid down the "slippery slope" to a Frame-Off Rodstoration! LQ4/4l85e/C4 IFS/Mustang 8.8 rearend w/3.73's Dan's '55 Big Window "Build" - Well, Kinda! |
06-04-2019, 09:11 AM | #13 |
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Re: progress today and questions for the pros
The problem with powder coating springs (or chrome) is the heat required. Eaton says spring damage can happen at 300 deg.
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06-04-2019, 02:14 PM | #14 | |
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Re: progress today and questions for the pros
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Brian
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1948 Chevy pickup Chopped, Sectioned, 1953 Corvette 235 powered. Once was even 401 Buick mid engined with the carburetor right between the seats! Bought with paper route money in 1973 when I was 15. "Fan of most anything that moves human beings" |
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06-03-2019, 10:12 AM | #15 |
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Re: progress today and questions for the pros
The more I read on por15 the more I dont want it...hiding rust under it isn't good....sandblast and epoxy primer/paint or powder coat is definitely the best way...
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06-03-2019, 10:48 AM | #16 | |
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Re: progress today and questions for the pros
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Thank you |
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06-03-2019, 06:27 PM | #17 |
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Re: progress today and questions for the pros
Urethane and epoxy paints are both very durable. Urethane paints tend to live longer when exposed to UV light. Urethane also tends to be more flexible than epoxy paint. Urethane sign paint must be made of Kryptonite because it takes more than the man of steel to remove it.
If you have air then a needle scaler is a great tool to use along with the wire wheel. It knocks off old paint, rust, undercoating, and ancient hardened grease. You need a good air source but the results are worth it. Also get hearing protection! You should not paint the flats of the leaf springs if they will be in contact with another leaf. The top of top leaf and bottom of bottom leaf plus the sides are ok. The leaf spring will go together just fine because the center bolt will clamp it together. Make sure to get pads to go between the leaves at the center. You should consider how the sliders are going to be retained in place. Most new springs have holes or grooves for the sliders to rest in. You can drill holes in the spring using a masonry bit and a drill press at 400-500 rpm. Plan carefully so the sliders don't end up rubbing on the clamps at the ends of the leaves. The truck ride should be noticeably better with sliders. |
06-03-2019, 09:01 PM | #18 | |
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Re: progress today and questions for the pros
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06-04-2019, 01:12 AM | #19 |
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Re: progress today and questions for the pros
if you are talking about the full length plastic sheets that some guys put in between the leafs then make sure to buy the same color as the springs or it can look a bit off.
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06-08-2019, 09:55 PM | #20 | |
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Re: progress today and questions for the pros
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Where do I get these pads that go between each leaf in the center? I’m sure I’ll need to find a longer bolt to hold them together too since a pad between each will thicken it in the middle. As far as the pads on the ends go, how far in from each end do I put them? The rears have 7 leafs so I need 12 buttons? I’m putting them on the little leaf on the bottom too? I appreciate any and all advice Thank you |
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06-08-2019, 11:42 PM | #21 |
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Re: progress today and questions for the pros
Phungki, i agree with the previous poster. Clean the frame good and paint it with rustoleum! Probably the best paint ever made for painting auto frames on a budget.
Also, look at this pic. Lower your rear end 2" and all it takes is a tad bit of elbow grease. One of the best tricks i have ever seen. And with the body/bed already off, it is much easier. Not easy, but easier. I have not ever seen painted springs, except on show cars/trucks. If i just had to have painted springs; i would brush them clean as i can, give them the rustoleum treatment and call it a day.
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06-09-2019, 08:26 AM | #22 | |
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Re: progress today and questions for the pros
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I have no problem not painting the springs, just cleaning up rust again. I was just curious as to why I was told not to paint them. Thank you |
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06-09-2019, 08:53 AM | #23 |
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Re: progress today and questions for the pros
I had a local spring shop make up new springs for me as mine were very rusty and didn't seem to have the same shape. They came painted. New hangers and bushings were also installed. I don't remember the cost but they weren't very expensive.
I have done that for several parts where excess elbow grease would have been required and if the cost was reasonable. Other parts I wire brushed and painted. Mine is not a show truck by any means as it's going to be driven as much as possible. The ultimate goal is a coast to coast cross country road trip when done. It's just being built to have some fun on nice days and take my new granddaughter for ice cream and to school when she is old enough. I am a perfectionist at times but so far, it all looks "good enough" for a 1952 truck and will definitely last longer than me. Just my 2 cents worth. |
06-04-2019, 08:17 AM | #24 | |
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Re: progress today and questions for the pros
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Last edited by 1project2many; 06-04-2019 at 06:00 PM. |
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06-04-2019, 01:37 PM | #25 | |
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Re: progress today and questions for the pros
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