1968 C10 Front Alginment, Toe and camber Specs

[96blazr]

Good day Everyone. I'm in need of Toe-in/out, Camber and total alignment Specs for my 1968 C10 1/2 SWB, please. If anyone has a link or a site to access, please let me know.

Thanks in Advance.

[Wrenchbender Ret]

Ive always had the best handling with normal tire wear with these specs.
1 degree pos. caster. 1/4 degree neg. camber & 1/16 in. toe-in.

[96blazr]

Originally Posted by Wrenchbender Ret

Ive always had the best handling with normal tire wear with these specs.
1 degree pos. caster. 1/4 degree neg. camber & 1/16 in. toe-in.

Thank you Wrenchbender.

[68 P.O.S.]

Read this thread. He did a great job on getting us good numbers to use. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=582187

[96blazr]

Thank you 68 P.O.S.

[mr48chev]

Wrench bender hit it pretty close. The stuff in the thread that 68 P.O.S.linked that those guys are throwing around is strictly for trucks that are driven on the auto cross courses at Good guys and those specs (2 neg is OUT OF ALIGNMENT) will eat your tires off the truck before you get to the first event that is 50 miles away. You cannot runs specs that are for racing on the street and expect your spendy tires to last.

Back when tires were narrower I set these trucks up with 1/2 degree + camber on the left, 1/4 degree + on the right an 1 degree + caster with 1/8 toe in. The 1/4 difference in camber compensates for the crown in the road and may have to be tweaked a tad if you live in an area that has more crown on the roads or a dry area like some parts of Arizona or New Mexico that have less crown on the roads.

I would not get past the 1/4 neg that wrenchbender suggested no matter what the self styled experts throw out. On the other hand I wouldn't get past 1/2 + either. You get too far either way and the weight of the front end is carried on either the inner half or outer half of the tread causing the tires to wear uneven and wear out far too soon costing you a bunch of money.

[68 P.O.S.]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Wrench bender hit it pretty close. The stuff in the thread that 68 P.O.S.linked that those guys are throwing around is strictly for trucks that are driven on the auto cross courses at Good guys and those specs (2 neg is OUT OF ALIGNMENT) will eat your tires off the truck before you get to the first event that is 50 miles away. You cannot runs specs that are for racing on the street and expect your spendy tires to last.

Back when tires were narrower I set these trucks up with 1/2 degree + camber on the left, 1/4 degree + on the right an 1 degree + caster with 1/8 toe in. The 1/4 difference in camber compensates for the crown in the road and may have to be tweaked a tad if you live in an area that has more crown on the roads or a dry area like some parts of Arizona or New Mexico that have less crown on the roads.

I would not get past the 1/4 neg that wrenchbender suggested no matter what the self styled experts throw out. On the other hand I wouldn't get past 1/2 + either. You get too far either way and the weight of the front end is carried on either the inner half or outer half of the tread causing the tires to wear uneven and wear out far too soon costing you a bunch of money.

Not sure where you're getting that from, but the thread I posted from BEMERDOC has nothing to do with setting your truck up for auto crossing and racing applications. It's about improving upon the short comings of the stock specs to get a better, modern alignment since the stock specs are antiquated and not performance friendly. Were the stock specs even meant for radial tires? Wow, calling a 20 year BMW master tech a "self styled expert" after he went through the trouble of testing these setups to try and help us board members out...truly a douche bag move. Bravo sir, bravo!


96blazr, stick with the numbers in the thread I posted and you're truck's alignment will be better than ever. BMERDOC has a couple of good threads on the subject, so check those out as well for real world results and to get more info on this. Let us know if you need anymore help and we can get you squared away.

[96blazr]

Originally Posted by 68 P.O.S.

96blazr, stick with the numbers in the thread I posted and you're truck's alignment will be better than ever. BMERDOC has a couple of good threads on the subject, so check those out as well for real world results and to get more info on this. Let us know if you need anymore help and we can get you squared away.

Okay, thanks. yeah, I read that response and was totally confused, cause I never mentioned racing and you never mentioned racing and all I'm asking for is, more or less, stock Specs.
Now, my truck has been lowered 2-inches all around and I just installed an ECE Anti-sway bar, if that matters.
No worries 68POS, I'll be using your specs.

[68 P.O.S.]

How did you lower your truck, springs only? Since you're getting it aligned anyway, the springs won't matter. The sway bar doesn't affect alignment either. Good move adding it though, it helps out the handling quite a bit. I've added a rear sway bar on mine and it handles fantastic.


Very nice truck by the way!

[96blazr]

Originally Posted by 68 P.O.S.

How did you lower your truck, springs only? Since you're getting it aligned anyway, the springs won't matter. The sway bar doesn't affect alignment either. Good move adding it though, it helps out the handling quite a bit. I've added a rear sway bar on mine and it handles fantastic.


Very nice truck by the way!

Ok, thanks. I was wondering if lowering it at all would affect the alignment settings.
Yes. 2-inch lowering Springs only with Gas Shocks from ECE. And the Sway-bar is from ECE too. None of that CPP crap for this kid. I lowered it 2-inches cause I still want it to LOOK like a truck, but lower the center-of-gravity and make it handle at little better.
Cause as you know, I'll be running on those auto cross courses at Good-Guys and I need all the handling I get!!

[68 P.O.S.]

When you lower with springs only, it does change the alignment so you would have to realign it after the install. Since you've already got them in, it doesn't matter. Lowering spindles on the other hand do not affect the alignment geometry at all.

Good job going with ECE for your parts. Top notch company, can't say enough about them. All of my suspension parts come from them too. I normally stay away from CPP as well, although I do have their rear sway bar. Make sure you add that rear sway bar for those road courses there buddy

[KMC3420]

I have a question on lowering and hope i don’t offend the OP. For the rear I plan on dropping mine 5 inches total. Is it ideal to get your drop from 5” drop springs or to utilize a 4” drop spring and 1” lowering block?

[96blazr]

Originally Posted by KMC3420

I have a question on lowering and hope i don’t offend the OP. For the rear I plan on dropping mine 5 inches total. Is it ideal to get your drop from 5” drop springs or to utilize a 4” drop spring and 1” lowering block?

You're not "offending" me at all, but if it were me, I'd start a new thread and get a better chance of reaching a wider audience and therefore more answers. Not a sermon, just a thought.

[68 P.O.S.]

Honestly, I don't know if it really matters, claims can be made for either way. I've heard people here say blocks are better for retaining spring rates for towing and hauling applications. At the same token, I've also seen people on here who claim to have 6" lowering springs and have no issue towing/hauling. I personally prefer springs only, but again, does it really matter? I do know that with blocks you can run into interference with smaller rims, like 15's, rubbing. Hopefully others will chime in with their expertise.

[KMC3420]

Thanks 96blazr and 68POS. I just wanted to get an opinion on it. What I have mostly read is concerning spring rates. I also read the issue with 15” wheels and being too low if you get a flat. I just wanted to know what science was involved but agree there are valid arguments for both sides. I read through the make it handle thread but didn’t make it all the way through. I didn’t see much on the topic, but I’m sure it’s in there. Thanks fellas.

[HO455]

First off nice truck!
Second is if your driving the truck a lot you might look into doing a modification to allow more caster. Tons of info on this on the forum. I did my daily driver Burban along with an alignment similar to BMWDOC's thread 16k miles ago with great results.
Third is with amount you have lowered the truck you should have no alignment issues or bump steer issues.
And did I mention what a nice truck you have?

[96blazr]

Originally Posted by HO455

First off nice truck!
Second is if your driving the truck a lot you might look into doing a modification to allow more caster. Tons of info on this on the forum. I did my daily driver Burban along with an alignment similar to BMWDOC's thread 16k miles ago with great results.
Third is with amount you have lowered the truck you should have no alignment issues or bump steer issues.
And did I mention what a nice truck you have?

No, I don't think you mentioned it
Thank you HO455, I appreciate it.

I don't drive it "A lot" per say. Just on rainless weekends to Shows, Cars & Coffee and Parades(I'm a Shriner). Thanks for the input and info.