Anyone ever made their own C-notch? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

TIMSPEED · 12-02-2003, 07:15 AM

It doesn't seem like it would be too hard. I already have a set of the bumpstops that you see inside them (the little rubber button head things).
So couldn't I just get a piece of steel in the shape of an L, that's probably like 3"x4" 10" long, and cut out a section, then trace that section on the frame, then cut that section out on the frame, then weld in the plate?
Would this be a bad idea?

**N2TRUX** · 12-02-2003, 11:29 AM

If you can fabricate and weld, you can do it. My Blazer and my Cheyenne both have a fabricated C-notch. You need to box the frame on the inside to give proper support...

Izzy · 12-02-2003, 12:16 PM

I agree with ken it's easy. A piece of thick wall well pipe and some plate for the inside and you're good.

Step notches are easy too just get some 3/16" or 1/4" plate for the sides and the same for the top/bottom caps. You'll need to have a machine shop break the top/bottom caps unless you have that handy. :read:

**Captkaos** · 12-02-2003, 04:06 PM

I have never bought one, so all of them I have made.

The first used Sched 40 6" pipe, the second used a 6" U-channel.

**N2TRUX** · 12-02-2003, 11:16 PM

I wonder if the weld will hold on that second one

That's a serious bead there

7T7 · 12-02-2003, 11:37 PM

Get the sawsall out and go for the gusto!
BIG NOTCH!!

1.cut notch out with scissors.....

7T7 · 12-02-2003, 11:38 PM

2.glue into place
[url]

7T7 · 12-02-2003, 11:40 PM

3. paint it your favorite color

98L150 · 12-02-2003, 11:50 PM

Here is a pic of my 64's step notch that I did. Bending the outer and inner plates to match the frame contour is the only tricky part that I ran into.

jamis · 12-03-2003, 12:01 PM

It was a pain in the butt to do because of all the diffrent angles.

78chevstepside · 12-04-2003, 05:09 AM

Cardboard makes a good template. Make what your going to build out of cardboard first. That way its easy to get the proper angles. Angle finder works great also. then trace it on your steel with soap stone . I bought my c-notch. but a guy could easly go to the store take measuements and build his own. I kinda wish i built my own now. But then again i have built things before that i could buy cheaper then i could make. Or buy one and make a thousand of them and sell them. Looks very nice:7t7 and n2trux bowtie:

78chevstepside · 12-04-2003, 05:11 AM

MrShelley · 12-10-2003, 09:41 PM

Driver side...

MrShelley · 12-10-2003, 09:42 PM

Passenger side, extended to clear Early Classic extended trailing arm bar/mount (bar removed in photo)

phantom dually · 12-10-2003, 11:44 PM

So are you gonna do it??

pat · 12-15-2003, 09:02 PM

Im working on taking my frame apart to try and make a C-notch. I was planning on making one like you can buy and then bolting it in. What all pieces of the frame do you need to take off? There is the one piece that connects the 2 framerails and then the other pieces that Im not sure of...
Also, I have no way right now of lining up the rear end with the frame to find the point where it would bottom out b/c my truck is just the bare frame right now. So, is there a way to find the exact spot to put the notch in so that the axle will settle directly into it?
Thanks

98L150 · 12-15-2003, 09:49 PM

Pat,

If you have the front suspension still on the truck you can measure the wheel base front he center of the spindle back on the frame. From the center of the spindle to the measured wheek base length would determine on the frame were the center of the rear end would hit the fram and you could use this to mark the center of the notch.

This is just my own opinion of how to do it with out a rearend inteh truck or have another frame already done to reference off of for measurements.

Jeff

pat · 12-17-2003, 03:45 PM

I would except my truck is only the framerails, everything else is off, the rear end and front suspension are taken off. Any other way?...

Also, what braces will be removed and not put back on?

Slammed67 · 12-17-2003, 10:58 PM

If you are fabricating your own notch, I'd recommend bolting the traling arms and rear axle back on the truck to make sure you notch it in the correct spot. I used the bolt-in notch sold by CPP and it gave directions on where to place the notch so there was no guess work.

12-02-2003, 07:15 AM	#1
TIMSPEED Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Modesto, CA Posts: 1,321	Anyone ever made their own C-notch? It doesn't seem like it would be too hard. I already have a set of the bumpstops that you see inside them (the little rubber button head things). So couldn't I just get a piece of steel in the shape of an L, that's probably like 3"x4" 10" long, and cut out a section, then trace that section on the frame, then cut that section out on the frame, then weld in the plate? Would this be a bad idea? __________________ I have a few cars... See Them Here

12-02-2003, 11:29 AM	#2
N2TRUX Happy to be here Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Cypress, TX Posts: 39,021	If you can fabricate and weld, you can do it. My Blazer and my Cheyenne both have a fabricated C-notch. You need to box the frame on the inside to give proper support... __________________ Follow me on Facebook and Instagram @N2trux.com Articles- "Jake" the 84 to 74 crewcab "Elwood" the77_Remix 85 GMC Sierra "Scarlett" "Refining Sierra"

12-02-2003, 04:06 PM	#4
Captkaos www.73-87chevytrucks.com Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Birmingham, AL Posts: 6,935	I have never bought one, so all of them I have made. The first used Sched 40 6" pipe, the second used a 6" U-channel. __________________ Chris Lucas 1973 Chevy C-10 1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD 1987 R10 twin turbo LS 1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab 1985 K5 diesel swapped project 1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project Captkaos Customs 73-87chevytrucks.com

12-02-2003, 11:50 PM	#9
98L150 ///Relaxed Atmosphere Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Hockley, TX Posts: 657	Here is my 64's step notch Here is a pic of my 64's step notch that I did. Bending the outer and inner plates to match the frame contour is the only tricky part that I ran into. Attached Images

12-03-2003, 12:01 PM	#10
jamis F.A.S.T. president Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Florida Posts: 1,883	It was a pain in the butt to do because of all the diffrent angles. Last edited by jamis; 10-05-2007 at 07:11 AM.

12-02-2003, 12:16 PM	#3
Izzy Trucker. Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Fort Worth, TX Posts: 1,364	I agree with ken it's easy. A piece of thick wall well pipe and some plate for the inside and you're good. Step notches are easy too just get some 3/16" or 1/4" plate for the sides and the same for the top/bottom caps. You'll need to have a machine shop break the top/bottom caps unless you have that handy. :read:

12-02-2003, 11:16 PM	#5
N2TRUX Happy to be here Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Cypress, TX Posts: 39,021	I wonder if the weld will hold on that second one That's a serious bead there

12-02-2003, 11:37 PM	#6
7T7 Regular guy Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Round Rock TX Posts: 518	Get the sawsall out and go for the gusto! BIG NOTCH!! 1.cut notch out with scissors.....

12-02-2003, 11:38 PM	#7
7T7 Regular guy Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Round Rock TX Posts: 518	2.glue into place [url]

12-02-2003, 11:40 PM	#8
7T7 Regular guy Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Round Rock TX Posts: 518	3. paint it your favorite color

12-04-2003, 05:09 AM	#11
78chevstepside Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: lacenter, washington Posts: 718	Cardboard makes a good template. Make what your going to build out of cardboard first. That way its easy to get the proper angles. Angle finder works great also. then trace it on your steel with soap stone . I bought my c-notch. but a guy could easly go to the store take measuements and build his own. I kinda wish i built my own now. But then again i have built things before that i could buy cheaper then i could make. Or buy one and make a thousand of them and sell them. Looks very nice:7t7 and n2trux bowtie: Attached Images

12-04-2003, 05:11 AM	#12
78chevstepside Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: lacenter, washington Posts: 718	Attached Images

12-10-2003, 09:41 PM	#13
MrShelley Too Many Clubs Club Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Kilgore, Texas Posts: 443	Driver side... Attached Images

12-10-2003, 09:42 PM	#14
MrShelley Too Many Clubs Club Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Kilgore, Texas Posts: 443	Passenger side, extended to clear Early Classic extended trailing arm bar/mount (bar removed in photo) Attached Images

12-10-2003, 11:44 PM	#15
phantom dually Project92 SWB stepside Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Louisville KY Posts: 4,792	So are you gonna do it?? __________________ 92 C1500 stepside 496 Stroker Competiton Engineering Ladder bars/QA1 coilovers. Dana 60 rear with 4.10 gear and posi. Bonspeed Palisade 20x12 in rear w/335/30/20 and 20x8.5 front w/245/40/20. 5/8 drop with Belltech springs/DJM spindles/drop shocks. WWS Progress thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=140448



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12-15-2003, 09:02 PM	#16
pat Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Lindsay, TX Posts: 1,245	Im working on taking my frame apart to try and make a C-notch. I was planning on making one like you can buy and then bolting it in. What all pieces of the frame do you need to take off? There is the one piece that connects the 2 framerails and then the other pieces that Im not sure of... Also, I have no way right now of lining up the rear end with the frame to find the point where it would bottom out b/c my truck is just the bare frame right now. So, is there a way to find the exact spot to put the notch in so that the axle will settle directly into it? Thanks __________________ 68 Chevy 383/350 w/shift kit, 380hp/425ft-lbs, 4.5/5 drop, 17" TT2s 64 Cadillac Sedan DeVille

12-15-2003, 09:49 PM	#17
98L150 ///Relaxed Atmosphere Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Hockley, TX Posts: 657	Pat use the wheel base Pat, If you have the front suspension still on the truck you can measure the wheel base front he center of the spindle back on the frame. From the center of the spindle to the measured wheek base length would determine on the frame were the center of the rear end would hit the fram and you could use this to mark the center of the notch. This is just my own opinion of how to do it with out a rearend inteh truck or have another frame already done to reference off of for measurements. Jeff

12-17-2003, 03:45 PM	#18
pat Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Lindsay, TX Posts: 1,245	I would except my truck is only the framerails, everything else is off, the rear end and front suspension are taken off. Any other way?... Also, what braces will be removed and not put back on? __________________ 68 Chevy 383/350 w/shift kit, 380hp/425ft-lbs, 4.5/5 drop, 17" TT2s 64 Cadillac Sedan DeVille

12-17-2003, 10:58 PM	#19
Slammed67 Progress = 0% Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 2,108	If you are fabricating your own notch, I'd recommend bolting the traling arms and rear axle back on the truck to make sure you notch it in the correct spot. I used the bolt-in notch sold by CPP and it gave directions on where to place the notch so there was no guess work. __________________ Jason - '67 GMC swb \| '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop \| '56 210 4dr Wagon \| 2000 GMC Sierra

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