Parts to add Booster ?

[Dan-K]

Other than the Booster and prop valve are there any other parts that are required to add a booster to a non power brake truck . My truck has discs in the front but there is no booster . I think my master cylinder is toast so I figure I would just purchase the Master/Booster assembly and kill two birds with one stone . Thanks in advance .

[67/Heaven]

The booster, the master cylinder, the proportioning valve, there is also a firewall dust boot that my set up came with, finally you will need some fittings and some hose to hook up the booster to the engine vacuum. Keep in mind that you will have to do some modifications on the brake lines to get them to line up as the connection points will change slightly in physical location. I ended up bending new sections from the proportioning valve, i used 1/4" stainless steel Swagelok fitttings to tie in to the old lines.

[Mike C]

67-72 trucks use offset brackets and a linkage to actuate the booster. It raises the centerline of the master above the pushrod where the manual one mounts.

I would buy a conversion setup on eBay or form one of the providers. I recently picked one up from Speedway Motors FWIW.

[Dan-K]

Thanks for the info .

[randy500]

No need for a proportioning valve, you already have one.
No need to bleed the brakes either or touch the lines.
Remove the master cylinder, prop it up on the engine, install the booster
The bolt at he pedal is the same one as non power.
You should install a new rubber boot at the firewall
Bolt on the booster and connect the pedal.
Bolt the mastercylinder with lines and prop valve attached to the booster, pulling it forward stretching the brake lines, there is plenty of play in the lines.

Connect vacuum to the booster.
Your carb should have a fitting at the rear, 1/4” npt plug, get the adapter fitting and hardline etc to the booster.

[randy500]

There are basically 2 styles of master cylinders, deep hole or shallow hole and boosters must match. 71-2 3/4ton is shallow, the rest are deep.

[Mike C]

The 8" aftermarket booster setup I bought came with a master cylinder spacer. Run the spacer for a shallow setup and leave it out if you need the deep. That is convenient.

[Andy4639]

I would buy a complete setup as you stated. If the master cylinder is bad buy it all as a unit. Stay away from the CPP proportioning valve with rubber boot plunger.

Some of the booster's had a bracket arm also but it's not a must have.
If you have the room go factory 11" booster.

[Dan-K]

I have ordered the complete setup (master/booster/prop) so It should be easier that way .