Various Questions

[maverickmk]

I have a few various, simple questions:

1) Anyone know what the red color is for a '69 GMC red interior? Where I can get some of that paint? I need to get some door panels and want to paint them the same red color that mine are.

2) I currently have three-on-the-tree and am thinking of getting a TH350-400. Will there be any interference with the low hump that I currently have?

3) Where can I find the proper electrical connector for the gas gauge that connects at the sending unit?

[Andyking1203]

I'd look at lmc or classic parts for the parts your looking for.. as for the low hump, I dont think the auto would cause a problem.

[72 tigger]

I believe if our trucks had the TH400, they had the high hump ( l think the 400 was only behind a big block)

[notsolo]

Keep trying various searches for paint codes interior maybe different.

[maverickmk]

Originally Posted by notsolo

Keep trying various searches for paint codes interior maybe different.

It's more of a burgundy color, not a red, red. But not the dark maroon. Make sense?

[Mike C]

Originally Posted by 72 tigger

I believe if our trucks had the TH400, they had the high hump ( l think the 400 was only behind a big block)

I have a 69 GMC C2500 with a 4.10 Dana 60 and Turbo 400 with a factory 350 and it has the high hump. I have a 72 Sub C2500 with 4.10 geared HO52 and Turbo 350 behind it's 350. The Sub is a low hump. As a passenger vehicle, the Subs had some different rules though.

[BigBird05]

My 72 has a turbo 350 with a low hump.

[Andy4639]

I have a 4L80E in my 71 low hump and it fits fine. I had a 700 R-4 in it before that.

If I'm thinking right the fuel sensor electric connection is the same as a Cigarette Lighter in these trucks.

[maverickmk]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

I have a 4L80E in my 71 low hump and it fits fine. I had a 700 R-4 in it before that.

If I'm thinking right the fuel sensor electric connection is the same as a Cigarette Lighter in these trucks.

That's right. I knew I had seen that plug somewhere before - many moons ago
Thanks for the idea.

[maverickmk]

Originally Posted by BigBird05

My 72 has a turbo 350 with a low hump.

Nice, that makes life a lot easier for me.

[geezer#99]

Don’t forget about the fun part!
Removing the stock bellhousing crossmember.
It’s gotta come out. Trans won’t fit otherwise.
Also will need a rear trans mount.

[garyd1961]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Don’t forget about the fun part!
Removing the stock bellhousing crossmember.
It’s gotta come out. Trans won’t fit otherwise.
Also will need a rear trans mount.

Didn't think a 3 on the tree had a crossmember.
Edit, I see now you said bellhousing crossmember. I thought that was just a bracket on each side but I never converted one to auto either

[geezer#99]

[QUOTE=garyd1961;8664006]Didn't think a 3 on the tree had a crossmember.[/QUOTE

Of course it does!
Gotta have something to hold up the trans and bellhousing.

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by garyd1961

Didn't think a 3 on the tree had a crossmember.

Yes it's up on the front of the transmission though and it's riveted in. You have to remove it to install the Auto. I cut mine off flush with the frame. Never have finished cutting it out though. It's not seen and not in the way so not a big deal to me.

[maverickmk]

One more random question.

The clutch engages at the very end of travel, which way do I adjust the clutch linkage? I think the rod adjustment needs to be moved towards the rear - ?? If you look at the picture (that I ripped off from LocDoc, thanks Doc), the red arrow shows the adjustment point and the blue arrow represents where my adjustment point is currently positioned, hence why I "think" it should be adjusted towards the rear. Or, is my clutch that bad that it will need to be replaced?
I haven't driven it more than from one parking spot to another in the lot, so I really have no idea how good the clutch is (I need to make the brakes actually work before I can test it )

[maverickmk]

I guess I forgot to add the picture

[Andy4639]

The pedal pushes the rod assembly to the rear of the truck. Your pedal should have about 1/2" to 1" of travel before it engages. There about any way. So yes to the answer of your question. Make the rod longer if you want it to engage quicker. Shorten it if you want it to be slower to engage.

[maverickmk]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

The pedal pushes the rod assembly to the rear of the truck. Your pedal should have about 1/2" to 1" of travel before it engages. There about any way. So yes to the answer of your question. Make the rod longer if you want it to engage quicker. Shorten it if you want it to be slower to engage.

I want it to engage quicker/sooner, but the adjuster is at the end of the rod towards the front - in essence making it about as long as it can be.

[Andy4639]

Then your pressure plate & clutch maybe worn out and needs replacing.